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First 24 Hours….Change in Plan…….

Dear F&F,
We left Ensenada in very nice warm weather. It quickly cooled outside the bay and we were sailing under reefed main and staysail to actually slow our pace as we wished to arrive at Isla Santa Maria at first light 115 miles to the south. Well, so go the best laid plans….

As we approached, a big Santa Ana started to blow from the beach and we felt it imprudent to continue to Isla Santa Maria as the anchorage there would not have been favorable. So, at 12:45 AM, we took in a second reef and headed for Islas San Benito. These are a very small group of islands 1/2 way down the Baja Peninsula. If you look at a world map, they are just NW of Cedros Island about 20 miles. Anyway, the wind has now come out of the southeast at about 6 knots and we\’re drifting along.
I\’m not firing up the engines as Cindy is asleep and didn\’t get much of it last night. The swell is from the NW 6-10 feet, and virtually no wind. We can see the big cruise ships enroute to Cabo & Puerto Vallarta passing us on the radar and AIS (automatic identification terminal) to seaward. All is well, crew a bit tired, but other than than. We hope to be at Islas San Benito tomorrow at first light. (WX PERMITTING)…..:)

January 14, 2008
POSITION REPORT

YOTREPS: YES
TIME: 2008/01/13 23:35
LATITUDE: 31-32.42N
LONGITUDE: 116-48.29W
COURSE: 180T
SPEED: 7.7
MARINE: YES
WIND_SPEED: 23
WIND_DIR: 337T
COMMENT: Beach House – Abeam Punta San Tomas…15-20 on the quarter

January 14, 2008
POSITION REPORT

YOTREPS: YES
TIME: 2008/01/13 19:46
LATITUDE: 31-51.35N
LONGITUDE: 116-37.27W
MARINE: NO
WIND_SPEED: 4
WIND_DIR: 232T
COMMENT: Beach House – Departing Ensenada….for Isla San Martin

January 13, 2008
It\’s hard to say goodbye if you never leave………

Dear F&F,
The weather window has opened. It\’s a gorgeous day here in Ensenada, 75
degrees. We will most likely leave today for Isla San Martin 110 miles
south of here enroute to Isla San Benito, 235 miles south of here. We will
be updating our position and posts as we sail toward Magdelena Bay and Cabo
San Lucas. We expect to be off the internet for 4-6 weeks. Love and Hugs,
Scott & Cindy

January 13, 2008
It\’s hard to say goodbye if you never leave………

Dear F&F,
The weather window has opened. It\’s a gorgeous day here in Ensenada, 75
degrees. We will most likely leave today for Isla San Martin 110 miles
south of here enroute to Isla San Benito, 235 miles south of here. We will
be updating our position and posts as we sail toward Magdelena Bay and Cabo
San Lucas. We expect to be off the internet for 4-6 weeks. Love and Hugs,
Scott & Cindy

January 13, 2008
2008-01 Isla San Benitos- ELEPHANT SEALS

We arrived after a day and two nights sail. Captain Cindy’s looking excited…… Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Sunrise at Cedros Island Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Cedros at Sunrise Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Isla San Benitos East (between Cedros Island and the Isla San Benitos group) Isla San Benitos – Mexico

We were greeted by this pair of “fishing dolphins” at our arrival at the anchorage Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Fishing Pangas at the anchorage Isla San Benitos – Mexico

We landed the dinghy on the beach….Our new wheel system for landing has worked out extremely well Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Just as we landed the dinghy, we realized we had some company Isla San Benitos – Mexico

The wheels were remade out of stainless steel from the original aluminum and have a quick system for deploying and retrieving our 250 lbs of dinghy to pull it up on the beach. The buildings are the fishing village (you’re seeing about 20 percent of it) in the background Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Male Bull Elephant Seal at the beach landing Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Scott gets as close as he dares. We didn’t want to wake the sleeping giant. This big boy probably weighed well over 1000 lbs. They move amazingly fast on land as well Isla San Benitos – Mexico

When we first arrived. A family came out to greet us in their panga. They wanted “candy”. Cindy provided them with a healthier snack when we went ashore…..including a little chocolate. Daniel, Damian & Alejandra……… Isla San Benitos – Mexico

In many places in the “eco” areas of Mexico, we have found these signs explaining the local interests and need for protecting the environment. Unforntunately, the locals don’t always read the signs….. Isla San Benitos – Mexico

This gives you an idea of life in a fishing village – The outback of Baja…….. Isla San Benitos – Mexico

A new church was being built. They used the wall of an adjacent house as one wall for the church Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Beach House at Isla San Benitos with Cedros Island in the distance Isla San Benitos – Mexico

We went for a 5 mile strenous hike up to the top of the mountain at Isla San Benito West to the light house…….Spectacular views Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Cindy with Isla San Benitos Middle and East, with Cedros Island in the distance Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Scott with Isla San Benito Middle, East and Cedros Island in the distance Isla San Benitos – Mexico

We believe this to be a “Century Palm” which blooms about every 10 years Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Views of Isla San Benitos Isla San Benitos – Mexico

The last quarter mile of this hike was very steep. Scott was exhausted Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Beach House with Cedros Island in the distance. Anchorage at Isla San Benito West Isla San Benitos – Mexico

This sign asks for visitors to be respectful of the Elephant Seal colony Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Who’s striking the pose here anyhow? Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Elephant Seal Colony (Group) Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Pup with Mom…. Apparently the pups are born over several months as we saw mostly newborns; but some who were weaned Isla San Benitos – Mexico

What Mom was communicating, we’ll never know, but she was laying down the law Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Mostly the gals hung together if they didn’t have any pups Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Living large and cute on the beach Isla San Benitos – Mexico

The alpha males seemed to have one thing on their mind…. Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Isla San Benitos – Mexico

After all that hot action, he had to take a cool dip. Maybe she told him to take a cold shower Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Redux……. Isla San Benitos – Mexico

What I chose not to show in these photos were the fairly high infant mortality rate. Several young pups were on the beach who didn’t make it for one reason or another. Isla San Benitos – Mexico

We actually saw one elephant seal give birth. The birds cleaned up the delivery room in seconds. Mom seemed confused and was separated from her newborn. She couldn’t seem to get past another mother who thought she was trying to nurse her baby. We hoped the outcome would resolve itself, after an hour it still had not. This may be a common reason for pup loss Isla San Benitos – Mexico

The mothers had barking voices, the babies sounded like monkeys when they cried out Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Many of the mothers barked at their pups, for the most part, the pups could have cared less. In some cases (as the mothers only had one pup at a time), we thought they might be telling the other pup to go find their own mother Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Though we shot most of these images with a film lens equivalent of a 350mm (we shoot digital with a 1.4 times image enlargement), two or three times in several hours, mom would let us know, we were close enough Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Many of the mothers seemed to be territorial and didn’t want another mother to get too close to her pup Isla San Benitos – Mexico

The mother on the right thought her personal and pup space was being crowded Isla San Benitos – Mexico

As you can see, mom (differing from many mammals) seems to have lots of choices for her young to nurse. Mom is just asleep Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Well, mom’s trying to sleep anyway Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Cute Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Newly weaned, this guy was trying see how fast he could reach “Alpha” status Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Enough of you big boy Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Yes, mother would love it…….such a face Isla

Back off buddy! Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Isla San Benitos – Mexico

We were sad to leave Isla San Benitos. The people were nice, the experience unforgettable Isla San Benitos – Mexico

It’s a tough life for these fishing families. Much welcomed supplies arrived on m/v “San Benito” from Cedros Island. Also, new families taking their turn fishing from the village. The average family stays only a few days to a few months before returning to their homes on Cedros or Isla Natividad (to the south of Cedros Island) Isla San Benitos – Mexico

These pangas catch my photograhic eye and I never tire of taking their picture. You sort of get a “sense” of each one, a feeling for each boat almost as it were alive and a distinct individual Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Farewell Islas San Benitos…..We really enjoyed our stay, now on our way……..To Turtle Bay! Isla San Benitos – Mexico

January 13, 2008
2008-01 Ensenada – Mexico

Ready or not, here I come Isla San Benitos – Mexico

Our temporary home at Cruiseport Village Marina. This is adjacent to where the Cruise Ships tie up for their three & seven day cruises from Los Angeles. It’s also where we first had our floating home on the West Coast after being transported from Spain (via Dockwise). Ensenada – Mexico

We decided to top off on fuel at Marina Corral. This marina is about 2 miles from the main harbor in Ensenada. It was a perfect day. Ensenada – Mexico

Captain Ed of the fishing vessel “Lunker” was our dock mate and became a good friend. Not only was he a delight, but a wealth of information about the Mexican coast toward our next destinations. Ensenada – Mexico

Ed specializes in rock fish using rod and reel. His market is in Southeast Asia and the fish are shipped live. His boat was a US Navy “gig” (craft for ferrying officers to and from ship). With great skill and care, Ed keeps “Lunker” from being a clunker…………:) Ensenada – Mexico

This huge Mexican Flag flies in Ensenada Harbor at a monument in tribute to important persons in Mexican history. It is supposedly the largest flag in Mexico and flown proudly here in Ensenada. The “bollard” (red metal object) next to Cindy is used to tie the Cruise Ships up when visiting. Ensenada – Mexico

We use a vacuum bagging system for long term storage of certain food items like frozen meats. When getting ready to go offshore, we have to provision (in this case), for up to 6 weeks without being near a real market. The Pacific Coast of Baja California is virtually empty once we leave Ensenada for the next 700 miles. Scott has been known to borrow this device to store spare engine and generator parts……:} Ensenada – Mexico

Cruiseport is a very beautiful, well maintained, security marina right in the heart of downtown Ensenada. Ensenada – Mexico

Scott dresses with great optimism! It was 57 degrees and rained the whole next day Ensenada – Mexico

There are actually two large cruise ship docks adjacent to our marina. They come and go and we never hear a sound. Cindy saw this sunset with “Elation” in the background. Ensenada – Mexico

We were invited to a Cruisers Brunch at Baja Mama’s at Estero Beach just south of Ensenada. We were able to finally meet the many voices we had heard on the “Net” (local VHF radio gathering) of the expats who were transiting or in some cases, live in Ensenada. Ensenada – Mexico

This is truly a beautiful building with extensive grounds Ensenada – Mexico

Ensenada

Scott poses with this fountain. There was a tile fresco behind this fountain in respect of the Mexican soldiers who died defending Northern Baja California in the war against the USA. Forturnately, that was a long time ago Ensenada – Mexico

Cindy in what was once an active Church on the Cultural Center grounds Ensenada – Mexico

Ensenada – Mexico

Right across the street from our Marina is one of the most beautiful buildings in Ensenada. It’s an historic cultural & civic center. The architecture is colonial reminiscent of Alhambra, Spain. This building was at one time a casino and currently displays the history of Mexican discovery in placards throughout its gardens. There is an outdoor theater and if the story is true, the bar where the “Margarita” was invented Ensenada – Mexico

Dave & Diane came along for the boat ride and to give us a hand fueling up at Marina Corral Ensenada – Mexico

Diane and Dave came for the test sail when we got the mainsail back from “El Norte”. It’s a bit chilly as you can see by Diane’s hat…….You betcha snookums…….:) Ensenada – Mexico

Scott went up the mast to check the rigging after the big Santa Ana blow we got on the way down from San Diego on Christmas Day. We had brought the mainsail back to Costa Mesa for some minor repairs. We took advantage of this time to do some maintenance. On Cindy’s B-Day no less! Ensenada – Mexico

The various wires and cables that hold the mast up straight in the air had streched a bit since our refit last year. This is a normal settling in effect. Scott went up the mast to adjust the “tuning”. Cindy uses the electric halyard winch and bosun’s chair to haul Scott up and down. We use a primary and safety line anytime we go up the mast. Note the Mexican Flag being flown from the starboard (right) side of the mast. This is done as a courtesy when visiting any foreign country by visiting boats and ships of all types. Ensenada – Mexico

These statues are of Juarez, Hildago and Carranza, Heroes to the Mexican people. The flag in the background is one of the largest in Mexico. Ensenada – Mexico

Dave of “Tattooed Mistress”. Dave & Diane are two American kids, doin’ the best they can……..(with apologies to JCMellencamp). They will eventually head south next season Ensenada – Mexico

La Bufadora is just south of Ensenada and is famous for its “Blow Hole”. This is natural feature where the ocean swell is forced into a small cavern and compresses the water through an opening to make a spectacular geyser. This day was very crowded with local tourists, a festive day was had by all La Bufadora – Punta Banda – Mexico

Cindy & Scott started some local touring with our new friends Sharon & John from “Sunbow” and old friends from Marina del Rey, Dave & Diane on “Tattooed Mistress” La Bufadora – Mexico

Here is the tile sign proclaiming that the bar at the Ensenada Cultural Center is the birthplace of the MARGARITA……….read on. Hey, who knew the Caesar Salad was invented in Tijuana? (It really was!) Ensenada – Mexico

Marina Corral has a very narrow entrance and as it was calm, the perfect day for going there. Captain Cindy fearlessly guided us through the breakwaters. The week before, a small vessel was caught in large swells and washed up on the rocks…….. Ensenada – Mexico

You can see in this photo, the “bollard” from the previous photo being used to tie the bow of Carnival Cruises’ “Paradise” up to the dock here at Cruiseport Village. Everyday, hundreds of people arrive and leave from the two cruise ship docks. They almost never stay overnight. Ensenada – Mexico

We went for a walk down the Ensenada “Malecon” (boardwalk). We came upon this sign which is translating sea lions as “marine wolves”. Of course the locals completely ignore its admonition. There is a large colony of “marine wolves” living on the wreck of the old Catalina Island Ferry boat located right outside Cruiseport Village Marina. Ensenada – Mexico

Our temporary home at Cruiseport Village Marina. This is adjacent to where the Cruise Ships tie up for their three & seven day cruises from Los Angeles. It’s also where we first had our floating home on the West Coast after being transported from Spain (via Dockwise). Ensenada – Mexico

December 30, 2007
POSITION REPORT

YOTREPS: YES
TIME: 2007/12/26 02:10
LATITUDE: 31-51.32N
LONGITUDE: 116-37.25W
MARINE: NO
WIND_SPEED: 9
WIND_DIR: 046T
COMMENT: Beach House – Arrived in Ensenada….Very Breezy Santa Ana\’s

December 26, 2007
San Diego (Part 2)……….

December 11

The train to San Diego is really a lovely way to travel from LA. You don\’t
have to concentrate on driving or worry about the traffic. You get wonderful
views of the coast and can be on the phone or internet to your hearts
content. Buddy Ty picked us up & delivered us back to our Boat Sweet Boat.

December 14

We signed up for Skype, internet phone. We begin calling friends around the
world: Hungary, Guatemala, New Zealand. Too much fun.

December 15

Longtime friend of Cindy\’s sister Maria, Jean Kelleher & her family, came
for a visit & harbor cruise. Actually we just went to the pumpout dock, but
doesn\’t harbor cruise sound nicer? Son Camlin & friend Connor explored the
boat fully & were brave assistants during potty patrol. The family lived
several years in South America so shared with us their living abroad &
travelling stories. Back to life in Carlsbad & San Diego for now, their
passion for more journeys is in their future plans.

December 16

We had one last party with our San Diego friends. Cindy hosted happy hour
onboard, then we walked across the street to view the Christmas Boat Parade.
Fireworks kicked off the festivities. A Coast Guard cutter was followed by
about 70 sail & power boats lit up with holiday lights. A good turnout of
folks picnicked & huddled in blankets along the waterfront parade route. The
Harbor Island hotels had many guests out on the balconies enjoying the view
also.

December 19

We took a break from boat projects & other business to be tourists on
Coronado Island. Cindy hadn\’t been there in 20 yrs, Scott even longer. The
Hotel Del Coronado is just as grand as ever. We enjoyed a walk along the
shore & watching the outdoor ice skating rink. We got lucky & saw more
fireworks, not sure why, but enjoyed them anyway.

December 20

Really became tourists & visited the San Diego Zoo. It was a cold day & not
too crowded so we were able to see pretty much all the animals. Highlights
were the polar bears, lynx and wide variety of birds. Ty had hernia surgery
yesterday. We stopped in after the zoo to check up on him. Our advice: take
more drugs, eat more pudding.

We could not resist one more taste of Phil\’s BBQ, this time we ate in. Super
Yum!

December 23

Scott\’s mother Suzanne passed away one year ago today. It seems like longer
& just yesterday, all at the same time. We still cannot believe that they
won\’t both just reappear one day…

We are checking the weather daily. Looks good for a Christmas sail to
Ensenada.

December 24

Linda sent Cindy a Fed Ex package to the San Diego Yacht Club. It was
supposed to have arrived Saturday 12/22 overnight. Will it arrive in time,
before the club closes at 3 pm? Yes, happy days! Santa delivers! An
assortment of precious cards, pictures, and good wishes to be opened
throughout the year. An addition to our crew: a small soft (stuffed) black
kitten, very well behaved & low maintenance. New Kitty was warmly welcomed
by our long established crew members: Dog, Cow & Oceana. Oceana is a
Jamaican fisherwoman doll, handmade by Linda for Cindy to take on her first
ocean crossing in 1996.

Scott humors Cindy by playing Sirius radio Christmas music. Ty & Oscar stop
by with Bon Voyage gifts of chocolate & wine, plus homemade cookies by
Phyllis Hokanson. Thank you! You made our stay in San Diego feel like home.
It is hard to say goodbye, but we are driven by the desire to migrate south
for the winter…

December 24, 2007
POSITION REPORT

YOTREPS: YES
TIME: 2007/12/23 23:43
LATITUDE: 32-43.64N
LONGITUDE: 117-12.34W
MARINE: NO
WIND_SPEED: 7
WIND_DIR: 320T
COMMENT: Beach House – in San Diego – Ensenada Christmas Day……

December 23, 2007