Category: By Date Blog

What a difference a day makes!…..

15 November 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

Yesterday\’s engine room antics were a great crest fall when the engine started and ran for 10 minutes and then failed. Ken Dickenson of Norfolk, UK and Dave Blanding of Shawnee Mission Kansas (\”Sunflower\’s home port) kept telling me about AIR and BLOCKAGE. With all due respect to Rube Goldberg, I FIXED IT!!!

First, the prefilter system WAS leaking AIR and couldn\’t be stopped, so it had to be removed from the system. This is where Rube Goldberg came in. For those of you who don\’t know who Rube Goldberg was…Google it!, but here\’s the short story. Rube was a guy who always wanted to make a better mouse trap. Some of his designs looked like the schematic from the space shuttle. In other words, he over complicated a simple problem and he worked his own ways to make things work.

So to get the pre filter out of the system, I had to use plastic hose reducers, lots of hose clamps, two different sizes of hose to reduce the main fuel line to the priming pump. The NEW pump is in line and assisted in priming, but is not necessary to run the engine. So once I got all this set up, I removed the fuel hose from the ENGINES lift pump and turned on the electric priming pump. The pressure in the primary fuel filter housing went way up (it has a pressure gauge) and NO output. UMM??? So I removed the outbound fuel hose to the engine lift pump from the primary fuel filter to see if it was blocked. I went to look inside the primary filter side and saw the line was completely blocked! But with what? Turns out, that when I was in Fiji, the \”boys\” had the hose on and off so many times they stripped the inner lining and it balled up. We\’ve wondered since Brisbane why we couldn\’t get full RPM out of the port engine. Now we know why! I kept the hose piece I cut off. You cannot blow air through it. It apparently got worse and worse and eventually starved the fuel from the engine.

Having cut it away and remounted it, the fuel came out the engine lift pump side like an artery. It also easily came out of the engines secondary fuel filter with the bleed screw open. It started right up and has been running under load for the last hour and a half. Mystery solved. The other good news is that while running this engine, the alternator is charging and I don\’t have to use up fuel running the generator to just charge the battery system. Also, if it\’s really hot we can run the little Air Con unit, the water makers and run the washing machine all while motoring and charging. Life is better!

The unhappy part of the day is that the wind is coming exactly from where we are trying to get to at 15 knots. The seas however are not bad. The wind is expected to back around to SSE sometime late this afternoon and when it does, will go close reaching again.

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions on the engine issue, especially Ken and Dave!

19-34S x 038-18E, motoring at 6.3 knots against the wind with a now neutral current. This should improve over the next 12 hours.

KIT, Scott and Reading Nikki (who of course was extremely helpful to the Captain in the engine room!)

What a day!…..

14 November 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

Yesterday – we ran out of wind in the late afternoon and motored on our one operable starboard engine until 3:00 a.m. when the wind came back up from 13-18 knots. Prior to the arrival of the wind, it was calmest night at sea I can recall. It was so calm, if we\’d dropped the sails and drifted, we would have thought we were tied to the dock!

We had a lovely evenings sail and around 10:30 a.m., the wind slowly shifted from SSE to the E and then to the NE and essentially quit. We again motored for much of the day. We attacked the port engine fuel starvation problem with earnest. VERY FRUSTRATINGLY, we got it to start on 4 occassions, but it would never stay on for more than 10 minutes under load. We had all manner of issues. The pre-filter was leaking air, the new priming pump wouldn\’t prime, one of the old ones did, but leaked. We had great fuel flow and finally, without either the prefilter or the priming pump in the system, I could not get fuel to flow to the secondary fuel filter EVEN when using the manual priming lever. I think we may be beat on this? I\’ll try again tomorrow, but I think that the engines \”lift pump\” must be bad (as I cannot even get the manual pump part of it to prime) and that we were just running on what was in the engines secondary filter for awhile an running out of fuel…?

If anyone out there has any ideas, please email us!

The other trauma of the day was that the clew of our mainsail ripped out. Fortunately, it happened during the day and when the wind was only 7 knots. I had to go out to the end of the boom in the bosun\’s chair and guide the sail around the boom mandrel while Nikki rolled it up from the furling system at the base of the mast. We now can only use the main up to the first reef for the duration of this trip. Shades of the Galapagos to Marquesas voyage.

Also, until mid day today from mid day yesterday, we had a 1.5 knot current AGAINST us. This was making our slow speed dismal. Around noon, we finally either got north or west of the counter current \”gyre\” out here and are now enjoying a .5 to .75 knot push. Dave from \”Sunflower\” and Paul of Peri-Peri Radio emailed me with the latest \”real time\” current chart of the Mozambique Channel from buoyweather.com. This aided us on where to sail to escape the current.

The wind came up around 4:30 p.m. and we\’ve currently 15 knots from the SSE, close reaching to the SW. We\’ve still a long way to go, but we are getting there.

Yes, we feel we\’ve been snake bit, where\’s the snake bit kit?… The seas are comfortable, the wind is in from Africa and night three begins.

KIT, Scott and Offwatch Nikki

South Africa or bust?….

12-13 November 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

Okay, did all the last minute checks…THE WEATHER looks good, we\’re off….sort of.

First thing, the port engine won\’t start. It\’s a fuel starvation problem. The filters look awful, so does the fuel. The fuel we picked up in Indonesia and Hellville may be coming back to haunt us. Changing the filters (both primary and secondary), cleaning out the lines with compressed air did not help. We have a boost pump and it doesn\’t seem to be working? So I changed it with two different spares. Same thing. Not sure what\’s going on but I\’ll keep trying to brain storm it and come up with a solution. I would not go into the \”inside\” of the \”hidey holes\” with only one engine. Hope I won\’t have too.

Next we discovered when motoring on just the starboard engine that our house battery alternator is not putting out a charge. This has been masked by the other engines operable one. Good news is we\’re getting closer to South Africa where I can get all this fixed!…:-)

We have a small air conditioner that cools one cabin and can\’t use it now without the generator and it is VERY HOT out here.

So we finally ESCAPED Cape St. Andre which was no small feat! The winds kept heading us into the cape and I finally (again), had to motor out for about an hour to get around the dangers. After that, the wind kept going from NNW all the way to SSE (anti clockwise). We tacked to go straight North West of all directions, but the wind then again continued to go around the circle. In the last 24 hours, we have sailed the boat on every possible wind direction.

We passed the island of Juan de Nova this morning. It looked a lot like Salomon Atoll at a distance. We\’ve used the geneker and the spinnaker today, but as I write, we\’re motoring. The current is giving us a 1/2 to 1 knot push which is good. The wind prediction is to remain light for a few days, but hope springs eternal.

The south swell has been uncomfortable all day long, but it is finally settling down.

Just spoke with Dave and Kathy on Sunflower who just arrived at Baly Bay. They\’ll be a few days behind us. At the rate we\’re going, they may catch us.

We\’ve just about 900 miles to go to Richard\’s Bay. Could take another week at this rate.

KIT, Scott and Cooking Nikki

Paul, (Peri Peri Radio – South Africa) cc: my mini group

Dear F&F,

We left Baly Bay yesterday morning. We have also lost our port engine due to fuel starvation. I have not been able to sort it out with new filters and some other tricks. The engine\’s \”lift pump\” may have gone out?

At least we\’ve the starboard engine, though I doubt I\’d be happy about going inside the reef systems at any of the \”hidey holes\”. I\’d have to use the outside anchorages at Imhanbane and Inhaca only.

SSE at 10-18 at this time. We\’ll be about 12 miles North of Juan de Nova when we pass it. We seem to have about a knot of current assist already and are crossing the channel at this time as much as heading south to get on it\’s good side…. Keep an eye out for us on the weather. It\’s supposed to go more east for about the next two days starting today?

Yesterday, we started with NNW then NW, the WNW, then W, then SW then SSW. We then tack about 10 miles off the coast and were heading NW!

The wind has clocked around ever since and we\’re good to go. Current heading is about 245 true, about one knot of current, dong about 8 knots over the ground.

0300 Z 16-37 South 043-03 East

KIT, Thanks, Scott Stolnitz s/v Beach House

Dear F&F,

We were 20 miles from Cape St. Andre and the wind abrupty shifted to SSW and blew 35 knots with lightening and a serious long term squall. We decided that descretion being the best part of valor to turn back to Baly Bay… The big concern is that once we past Cape St. Andre, the water is VERY shallow for 20 miles out to sea. 20 feet for many miles. As such, I was concerned about the sea build up and the waves from the port beam. The land protected us from the big winds as we were just 3 miles north of the coast when the squalls hit.

We\’ll re-group after a nights rest. Most likely we\’ll start tomorrow, but will let you know after a weather check. It\’s now blowing 7 knots and the skies are clearing.

Tomorrow is another day. We\’ll be anchored by 11:15 p.m. Don\’t like going in to an anchorage in the dark, but it\’s a wide open, well charted bay with no obstructions. We\’ll anchor well offshore as it\’s shallow. Cheers, SWU all very soon… Blog to be updated shortly.

Kit, Scott and now sleeping Nikki

Majunga to Baly Bay!……

12 November 2012

Dear F&F,

We departed for Baly Bay early as it was a long trip. The weather was perfect for a crossing to South Africa even. In fact, it was so good, we decided to go!

We set the reacher, the full main and set a waypoint for 5 miles north of Cape St. Andre, the western most cape in central Madagascar. It was still 40 miles from Baly Bay and we expected to pass the Cape just after dark. It\’s got lots of shallow areas, a few wrecks and other hazards, so we didn\’t want to be too close.

Well first, we started getting headed in toward the point. It became clear about 20 miles away, we\’d have to motor to get around so we did.

I went down off watch and came up to Nikki watching the sky to our south. A HUGE squall hit us and fortunately I\’d already taken two reefs in the main as I often do when motor slogging. The wind came up 35 knots and stayed for about a half an hour. The absolutely clear sky turned jet black in 15 minutes and rained hard.

This was most likely a short lived squall, but after an hour, I threw in the towel and we motor sailed back to Baly Bay. It turns out, it was short lived, but who knew! There was nothing in the forecast and this phenomenon is completely normal, though unpredictable for this area.

The trade winds on the west side of the island, (remember, it\’s the 4th largest island in the world), get compressed as they go up the eastern slopes. The air is cool and dry. It then gets really cold up in the mountains and falls on to the west side of the island like a rock. The warm, wet air on the eastern side collides with it and BOOM! A mini weather system with LOTS of punch.

As my Mother used to say, \”Discretion is the better part of valor\”. We turned tail! If we\’d gotten past the point, the seas in the VERY shallow water (much of it around 20 feet deep), could have been big breaking waves. As it was, our proximity to the shore protected us from big seas, but once that protection to our south would have disappeared?…NO FUN.

We got to Baly Bay at 11:00 pm. We were tired. A comfy night\’s sleep and we\’ll try again tomorrow…. Stay tuned. Scott and Nikki

Majunga…..

09 Novemeber 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F, Well, the guide book and Des and Nell of \”Gambit\” said, \”don\’t go there!\”… The guide book further says, when the prison closed…all the thieves and murderers came here….. Food for thought.

However, I wanted to top off fuel and go to a last market before we headed to Baly Bay for our jump off to South Africa. If it was that bad, we\’d just leave.

We arrived in the late afternoon and with the tide falling against the 20 knot westerly we\’d MOTORED into all day, the standing waves were impressive.

The one anchorage the guide book recommended was \”full\”. Read that as ONE boat. It was 5 feet deep in most of that bay, too shallow for my tastes with a strong tidal flow. We went to the far East end of the wharf and found a big boat ramp and a literal \”Ship\’s Graveyard\”. There were dozens, perhaps a few hundred people mulling about the boat ramp with all the coming\’s and goings and right next to it, 25 rusted out hulks. These were mostly small coastal freighter which were clearly one day going to be reclaimed as scrap. To our surprise, at high tide around 11 pm, one of the \”junks\” backed off the beach and pulled up the wharf. Apparently, it\’s used as a cheap repair yard too.

We anchored in 10 feet of water which at low tide became 6 feet of water. That\’s UNDER the hulls of course, so we\’ve about 3 feet (1 meter) of clearance. The bottom was soft mud, so no worries. We\’ve been told about theft stories here, the town is very very poor. The north side beaches looked fairly up market, but the south side wharf area was about as poor as we\’ve seen.

We had an uneventful night and the next morning I went toward the boat ramp with my 13 jerry cans for diesel and was hailed by Andre the boat boy! Andre wanted 10,000 Airy Airy for himself and a friend. That\’s $5.00 USD. He got me a taxi. The taxi driver, \”Mr. Tafita\”, wanted 5,000 Airy Airy. That\’s $2.50 USD. So, you get the concept. They\’re poor. Tafita and I went to the ATM, the diesel station and the quite nice \”Score\” Market. It all took 2 hours. I gave the boys tips amounting to twice what they asked for. For Mr. Tafita, it was three times what he\’d asked for. I thought I was going to be made Mayor of Majunga.

Nikki was embolden and I took her ashore and went back to watch the boat. She walked the 300 meter to the market and had no problems whatsoever. The market was nicer than Hellville\’s (new nice market).

As the wind was back up and the internet was as good as we\’d seen on the boat, we stayed the second night in preparation to go to Baly Bay where we\’d jump off for Richard\’s Bay, SA. We sent \”Sunflower\” and email with peoples names and phone numbers for the taxi, etc. People like it when \”Beach House\” goes ahead of them. They get lots of current information.

More soon, Scott and Navigator Nik

Russian Bay to Berangomania Bay, on to Moramaba Bay…..

05-07 November 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F, We\’d heard about a nice anchorage and \”local experience\” in Baramahamay Bay, but it was only another 16 miles and a restaurant ashore didn\’t appeal much as both Captain and Crew had a bit of \”tourista\” from our eating ashore in Hellville.

Hence, on we went to Berangomania Bay, another very well protected anchorage with a local village. On our next days run, we wanted to get to Moramba Bay where Des and Nel told us we would see Lemurs right on the beach and in the trees. This anchorage also has some incredible limestone rocks and fabulous Baobob trees. The Baobob\’s are also in Africa and Australia. They look like a tree turned upside down. Photo one day… (as if!..:-))

En route, we passed the infamous island of Nosy Lava. It is a former prison and is now closed. In 1993, two escapees went aboard the s/v \”Magic Carpet\” and murdered the crew!… The guide (when the prison was open), said, \”we cannot recommend the island\”…

We arrived at Moramba Bay in the afternoon and anchored in a lovely spot that reminded me of last years trip to the Lau Group of Fiji. The limestone islands there were a bit more spectacular, but these were very nice. Also, the baobob trees were spectacular AND BEST OF ALL! We saw the Colqueri Safakia Lemurs (7 of them), right in a big tree on the beach!..Yeah, we found our lemurs! They are diurnal, so we saw them in the trees at dawn and dusk. According to what I read, there are about 60 animals per sq. kilometer. This particular species (of which there are dozens), is one of the largest. The body is about 2 feet tall and the tail a bit longer. They vertically climb, swing and stay in small groups. They were very alert to our presence as well. These animals have been hunted and are most likely quite leery of people. A local guide told us their species and had a group of 3 tourists from Ireland with him. He said if we go ashore, they\’ll go high up into the canopy. The next morning, we went for a walk on the beach and indeed, they wouldn\’t come down till we left. We did see paw prints on the beach too which was pretty cool. Yeah, photos one day!…

After a full day and two nights, \”Sunflower\” arrived and we left the next morning for another town of ill repute, Majunga…. More soon,

Kit, Scott and Nikki

Getting Ready to head South, Happy Birthday Nikki!…..

01-04 November 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

We departed Hellville for a 1 1/2 hour trip to the next door island, Nosy Komba. This had a lovely anchorage, lots of local shops and a reasonable restaurant which the four of us, Dave, Kathy, Nikki and Scott. After a nice lunch we went for a long beach walk amongst the shops. We found out that there is a nice lemur viewing spot here and would perhaps come back the next morning to see them. After a calm night, Nikki and I decided to skip the lemur viewing and head back to Sakitia. Dave and Kathy did do the viewing and saw a nice bunch being fed by hand. We\’re anxious to head south and get going to South Africa, we\’ll start our trip tomorrow to Russian Bay.

Russian Bay, we left casually as the trip to Russian Bay was only 18 miles. Motoring as there was little wind. We arrived at the nice anchorage just inside the entrance and had a lovely calm evening. Just us, \”Sunflower\” and the mozzy\’s…:-)

The best thing about today is!…Happy Birthday Nikki!…. She\’s a pearl of a girl.

More to follow,
Scott and Birthday Girl Nik

Sakatia and off to HELLville…..

We first anchored at the small island of Sakatia just northwest of Nose Be. We\’d heard good things about one of the fishing lodges here and that they could help us with advice on how to check in. The owner of the lodge no longer lives there, but his immediate neighbors are Des and Nel of South African sailing yacht, \”Gambit\”.

Nel and Des were most gracious and a wealth of information about not only checking in/out, but the strategy and tactics to get to South Africa. They\’ve made the trip six times in their 30 footer. They were all about how we were doing this the right way having avoided going to Mauritius. Des said that in the seven years he\’s listened on the Radio Nets, no one doing that trip had escaped getting weather whacked.

After relaxing a day in Sakatia and having had a meal at the fishing lodge and the Sakatia Resort next door with Dave and Kathy on \”Sunflower\”, we bravely set off for the 14 mile trip to Hell-ville. It\’s named after a French Admiral Hell, btw! The anchorage was a bit bumpy during the day, but that night it calmed nicely. As we arrived, \”Romeo\”, one of the boat boys that Des said would come out, did indeed. The next morning, the four of us began the check in process with Romeo in tow.

First stop immigration which was 30 feet from the dinghy dock. This is good!…NOT so much. After using my mediocre French, the official said to \”come back for your passports this afternoon at 5PM\”, or..\”maybe tomorrow\”! WAIT, said I, \”no official keeps passports\”. After going round and round, it was determined that the boss had to sign them. This necessitated taking a taxi WITH THE OFFICIAL to the airport where we found the \”Boss\”. She was very pleasant and clearly would have been upset if her subordinate did not have our passports signed before returning them. The airport is not very busy, but today it was, so she had to be there to issue visas to arriving tourists. After wasting an hour doing that, we next went to customs which was EASY. Then to the Port Captain, who refused to speak slowly, but I finally got that we were to make an itinerary of our expected travels, pay a fee and he would issue a Port Clearance and Cruising Permit. We were told to go pay at the next office, come back at 3 pm and it would be ready. We went to pay and the officer said, \”come back at 3 pm\”.

Internet and phone were next and a nice lunch at \”Papillion\”. We went back at 3 pm, paid the equivalent of $30.00 dollars and went to pick up our permit. Again, we had to \”wait for the boss\”, but he showed up only 15 minutes later. We all felt kind of beat up after this days experience; kind of like we\’d been to \”Hell-ville\”, but at least it was done.

I would say this was up there on the list of difficult check in\’s along with Fiji. No bribes were asked for or even implied by the way.

We were so tired, we decided to fuel up the next day. It\’s quite hot here. The next day, Anatole, Des and Nel\’s favorite taxi driver showed up at the dock and we were inundated by \”boat boys\” who wanted to carry our empty fuel cans to his taxi to get a tip. More on this later! First, Anatole warned us, \”not all of the three gas stations will have fuel\”! We\’d been told that since the coup 3-4 years ago, fuel was now difficult to get.

We found diesel at the second station at about $1.50/liter. That\’s about the same price as Australia, but expensive by US standards at about $5.80/gallon. The fuel looked pretty good and so our first load of 13 (5 gallon) jerry cans was taken aboard. The boat boys were all over it; I still had another run to go!

After the second run, (Sunflower made two as well), we went to pay the boat boys. There was practically a fight and tears over who got paid and who was just trying to get paid. Eventually it was all sorted out. It\’s not that it was expensive so much as the unruly grief of dealing with all these guys. Romeo, (who is very young), was supposed to be in charge and tell us who got what. He quickly abdicated and Dave and I were left to decipher the entire mess. The dinghies have to be \”watched\” or they will disappear too. This is one of the poorest countries on Earth, the average salary is about $5.00/day. Hence, theft can be an issue.

Welcome to Hell!..ville, next morning…we were off to Nose Komba!

More later, Scott and Lemur seeking Nikki…..