Category: 2009 Oct Blog

Dear F&F,

Moorea – A Fluke Encounter

We enjoyed the morning dive, drifting with the current outside the reef. The
wind was blowing opposite of the current which made it a bit more strenuous
to tow the dinghy than yesterday when they were flowing the same direction.
I tried to hold onto the dinghy as a test for when Scott has a camera, but I
could not kick against the pull of the dinghy on the surface blown by the
wind. So Muscle Man got his workout. We saw the usual suspects but it was a
bit ho-hum. There are plenty of fish, but the coral looks dead, brownish. We
see the occasional black tip reef shark.

After the dive we had drifted down by the second bay so decided to take the
dinghy inside the reef to return to “Beach House”. We knew there were some
very shallow spots but have seen other small boats zooming in there, so gave
it a try. As we neared an anchorage area, we spotted catamaran “Azizah” that
we had first met in the Marquesas. We went over to say hello to Semia from
Brazil & her French man. As we were catching up with them, another couple in
a dinghy came up excitedly to tell us there was a whale Mama & Baby INSIDE
the bay & they had snorkeled with them for an hour. We all sprung into
action & zoomed over there. There were about 5 other boats in the area &
sure enough the mother & baby humpbacks were surfaced & letting snorkelers
swim very near. We both slipped in the water & had a real thrill. The water
was murky green, so despite how easy they were to see above water, it was
hard to see below. But when they moved a fluke or turned to expose their
white underside areas we could see them well. Intermittently they would dive
down for awhile. Young babies cannot hold their breath long, so it surfaced
often. We enjoyed watching them for about an hour. One of the local guys in
an outrigger canoe said they have been seeing this humpback pair for about 3
weeks. A late season baby – how lucky for us! The Baby was about 15 feet
long. The Mama a big 40 feet. We were astonished at how calm she seemed even
with 10-15 people near them in the water plus several small boats. We all
turned our engines off when close. We also know not to attempt to touch
them, but they each brushed up against Scott as they swam by. I swam out of
the way of Mom\’s enormous fluke in order not to be bashed by the 12 foot
long, thousand pound appendage. Incredible. It started out as just any other
day…you just never know what will happen. Very very exciting. We hope to
see them again. Hunger eventually drove us back to “Beach House”, but we
plan to re-anchor over there in hope to see them again in Oponohu bay.

While talking to the couple on “Azizah”, they asked if we would be going to
see the big canoe race, Hawaikinuivaa, next week. We had heard about it.
About 200 outriggers participate from all over the world. It is one of the
biggest events in the Society Islands for the whole year. We looked at each
other & grinned – why not? The weather is predicted to be calm & it gives us
a great reason to explore the other islands. The race starts in Huahine
which for us will be an overnight sail. Then it is about 30 miles to
Raiatea, then 5 miles to Tahaa. The finish will be 30 miles further at Bora
Bora. There will be much fanfare & parties at each end. FUN FUN FUN!

So we are going to go the little market here soon to stock up on food so we
don\’t have to worry about shopping on the other islands. Depending on whale
sightings we will set sail either Friday or Saturday night.

Just when you think you are in a routine, something changes. Stay tuned for
more \”tales\” of adventure!

Cindy & Scott

Dear F&F,

We headed outside the reef, it was sunny & calm. A dive company with guests
zoomed past us, so we followed their lead to a good spot. We anchored not
far from them & swam up current for a while. We saw a few black tip reef
sharks & lemon sharks. Lemons are all grey, girthy & 8-9 feet long. Yes: we
wore our shark shields. I was kind of hoping one of the lemons would swim
close enough so I could watch its aversion reaction to my shield, but they
kept their distance.

When we swam back toward our dinghy we saw that the dive master for the
group was doing a shark feeding. They taunt them with fish heads. It
attracted swarms of small fish as well as a few dozen black tips & one lemon
shark. We decided to stay & watch the show. Scott was frustrated that he did
not have his camera. But the folks that had cameras sure got some good shots
of feeding behavior. What amazes me the most is when the fish head is
finally given to or snatched by the shark, it swallows the thing whole. A
good 15-20 inch diameter fish head, mostly skin & bones, swallowed in one
bite. They did this routine several times. They claim it is such little
nutrition that it does not train the sharks to rely on these feedings. It
clearly changes their behavior, so we are not fans of the practice, but it
is common in all tourist areas with sharks.

When we were ready to go back for a second dive, the wind picked up & there
were whitecaps outside the reef, so we decided to tie up to a mooring near
the pass, inside the reef. The water clarity was not good. Like swimming in
a cloud of dust. But we saw a wide variety of creatures that made it a
fantastic dive. First we saw a black tip reef shark. Then we observed a
large number of dart fish which are pretty and fun to watch hovering over
their homes (holes in rocks or sand) then dart down into them when we
approach their territory. There was a stone fish that sat so still and is so
well camouflaged you have to really focus to identify his fishy features. A
major highlight was seeing about 10 big beautiful anemones, all with clown
fish. They were clumped in one area. It makes you wonder what is different
about that part of the reef that they thrive just there? We always enjoy
seeing eels. Their funny faces remind me of the song \”Puff the Magic
Dragon\”. A turtle did not swim away from us, but lingered for us to get a
good look. The spaghetti worm has long pasta-like tentacles that splay out
several yards like confetti. We saw two kinds of nudibranchs we\’d never seen
before and a pipe fish, which are not that common.

Both dives were easy, a short dinghy ride from where the big boat is
anchored and we get to go again tomorrow. I am loving life! You can be sure
that we will be coming to Moorea many times over the next 5 months!
Yippee!!!

We hear children laughing as they play in the shallow water as parents sit
under the palm trees. Sunday seems to be family day around the world. Two
other catamarans left today, there are only 2 monohull sailboats anchored
far away. It is times like these that makes it all worthwhile. I am so
grateful that we are having this good experience early on in the \”off\”
season. Between here & Tahiti, it seem a good place to linger. All the
conveniences of dock life, but \”getting away\” is easy too. Fantastic.

Cindy & Scott

Dear F&F,

We were up earlier since it was not so cold overnight. I love to get up
before sunrise. With the deep bay surrounded by high peaks sunrise appears
later & sets earlier. Which gives us a longer dawn & dusk; lovely times of
the day. No beating sun, enough light to still enjoy the scenery & be
perfectly comfortable in shorts & a tank top.

Since my return from California, Scott has taken to making our \”first
breakfast\” which is always eggs. His method is frying in a very hot skillet,
flipped once with a sprinkling of cheese and crushed chilli peppers.
Wonderful. I usually make the tea, cut up fruit & put out our vitamins.
We\’ve been eating at the cockpit table since it is so pleasant to be outside
in the early morning. Second breakfast is oatmeal with flaxseed, some kind
of nuts, dried prunes & apricots.

After the dishes were cleaned up we did our exercises. We started an
exercise routine that includes 5 different abdominal exercises. None of them
more than 10 repetitions but as Scott pointed out, it more or less adds up
to 50 sit ups. Some you move your legs instead of your upper body. Some you
move on a diagonal. The variety keeps it more interesting. Today we also
added push-ups (on the 2nd step, so not completely horizontal), step ups,
lunges, squats & something called mountain climbers. All good for leg
strengthening while requiring a certain amount of core stability. Scott got
all these from a book he bought online called \”The Truth About Six Pack
Abs\”. The title sounds like a gimmick, but it is actually a really smart, no
nonsense diet & exercise program. I am all for it.

After our workout we decided to move anchorages. While motoring we
desalinated water, heated water, did laundry & charged the batteries. We
took a tour into the second deep bay here, called Opunohu. This is where
Jimmy Buffet wrote \”One Particular Harbor\” which of course we had to play.
I\’m sure every single American boat that has ever been here plays that song.
There was a tall ship anchored near the entry. They are always fun to see,
such a striking part of the scenery. Instead of anchoring deep in the bay,
it seems most of the boats anchor to the east, just inside the fringing
reef. We followed suit. There are about 5 of us, all nicely spaced apart. I
caught up on writing while Scott read. After lunch we took the dinghy closer
to the reef & went snorkeling. I love love love to be in the water. Scott
got a bit bored after 20 minutes or so. It wasn\’t the best snorkeling in the
world, but there were plenty of little fish to see. Sadly there has been an
infestation of \”crown of thorn\” starfish that has decimated the coral. There
is practically no coral, just rocks. The marine biologist told us this
blight happens about every 25 years or so. Unlucky for us, it has happened
now. He said there are signs of the coral returning, but I couldn\’t see it.
Maybe when we go diving it will be better. Scott knew Beach House was close
enough for me to swim back, so he went back in the dinghy & let me linger in
the water. There are so many good stretches I can do in the water that are
hard to reproduce on land. Plus a longer submersion helps me keep cooler the
rest of the day.

After showering, we both enjoyed reading. Having all the time in the world
is the greatest part of retirement. Sometimes of course we have a schedule,
but mostly it is of our own making. I am very happy to be off the dock in a
beautiful place, not doing boat projects. We intend to get away for a week
at least once a month. Plus we want to go to Easter Island besides our next
trip to California.

Dinner was steak & sweet potatoes. More writing & reading this evening. We
got all our dive gear out & plan to go by ourselves outside the reef
tomorrow. We could see where the dive boats went today. We called one guy
that we were referred to by the dive master in Manihi, but it is $75 each
which is ridiculous when we use all our own gear. We decided with the
conditions so calm, we need to start being more adventurous & explore on our
own. Its one thing if there is strong current & a reason to go with a dive
guide, but here we should be able to have a good experience on our own

Anchored where we are now is not quite as calm as at Cook\’s bay. I think
that has more to do with the fact that it is Saturday & more people are out
& about zooming around in small boats & tourists on jet skis than anything
else. It is more convenient to the diving to be anchored here. But the past
2 days inside Cook\’s bay were magical.

Cindy & Scott

Dear F&F,

Despite the fact that we have interior lighting just like a house, living on
a boat we are more influenced by sunrise & sunset. Scott was teasing me for
being drowsy at 7:30 p.m. last night. But when I pointed out to him that
going to sleep at 8 p.m. & arising at 5 a.m. was the same amount of hours as
10 p.m. to 7 a.m. he could not argue. Sure enough by 8 p.m. it was lights
out for both of us.

We awoke cold! It cooled down to a rare chilly 67, which made us linger in
bed to the leisurely hour of 6 a.m. We saw the Regent cruise ship \”Paul
Gauguin\” anchored in the bay. It wasn\’t long before a parasailor’s colorful
chute was seen, a few kayakers and shuttles to shore.

We also saw that a French Gendarme patrol boat was anchored here. Before
long three officials asked if they could board us. This is the first
inspection we\’ve had anywhere in French Polynesia. They sat in the cockpit &
filled out their forms. They did not search inside, only asked if we had
animals, drugs or guns. Since we answered no to all, it was a brief visit.
They informed us that where we were anchored was a protected zone. We did
not see any kind of markers indicating this, but we gladly moved away from
the \”designated\” area.

Our shore excursion today was to Alfredo\’s for lunch. We were the only lunch
patrons. The inside decor had been updated, but we immediately recognized
the owner Christian (who also was the host/maitre\’d) despite the 13 year
lapse in time. We told him our story of enjoying his lasagna here all those
years ago & thought fondly of it ever since. He was pleased that we returned
and said he retained the same cook. In order to have leftovers, we each
ordered the lasagna which was brought forth bubbling hot in individual
casseroles. He reminded me that it was not simply cream, but a reduced
bechamel sauce that is the secret to the rich satisfying taste. We oohed &
aahed enjoying every bite, so happy to revisit this happy memory. The 20
restaurants in Moorea that are not attached to a hotel, have suffered the
most from the economic downturn. We enjoyed doing our part to aid local
commerce.

We walked off the rich meal, then dinghied along the coast exploring. It is
incredibly beautiful here. The natural beauty of the island is mixed with
tasteful tourist developments built in island style. I was impressed by how
clean the streets were compared to Tahiti, which has a real litter problem.
Scott imagines it is because nearly all the local population here work in
some aspect of the tourist industry. For whatever reason, I appreciate the
cleanliness as it goes a long way in improving our enjoyment of the island.

The weather today has been gorgeous. A parade of puffy white clouds but no
rain. High of mid 80s. Magnifique! We may move to the other deep bay
tomorrow – Opunohu, which is where Captain Cook actually went. This bay is
named after him, but he did not land here.

Cindy & Scott

Dear F&F,

Leaving the dock is no easy feat. We are \”Med moored\” at Marina Taina. This
means our stern (back of the boat) is tied to the dock. Versus side tied
which is the other common way that docks are arranged. Two lines up front
are secured to cement blocks underwater. Four lines are criss-crossed in
back to prevent us from being blown into the neighbor boat on either side.
We walk on & off the stern of the boat via a gangplank-type device called a
\”passerelle\” in French. We keep it raised up a few inches off the dock when
not in use to prevent unwanted critters from boarding and it from smacking
around. Thank God we have not seen any mice or rats.

Rico, a French boat worker happened to be passing by & saw me struggle with
the helm to not hit the other boats as Scott was releasing our lines. The
forward lines have to be walked back to the dock & secured so they are
easier to retrieve when we return. Once unfettered, I was easily able to
maneuver with our two engines out of the slip & out of the marina. It always
feels great to get off the dock. I hadn\’t even been there a full two weeks
but was getting restless. We did a lot of work on the boat since my return
from California. Scott worked non-stop the entire 3 weeks I was away. So we
were due for a vacation. Destination Moorea. It is the nearest island to
Tahiti, just about 16 miles from our dock to Cook\’s Bay anchorage. The wind
was initially calm, but as we reached the center of the channel it blew
sideways creating an uncomfortable sea state: beam (sideways) swell. I ran
for my A.W.Z. (Annoying Wrist Zapper) that I\’ve decided IS effective in
preventing my seasick symptoms (mostly headache, thankfully NOT nausea). if
I remember to put it on soon enough & am willing to tolerate the extremely
irritating sensation on the inside of my wrist. I felt less like a wimp when
we got settled & I read this in the cruising guide:

\”The channel between Tahiti and Moorea is often very choppy without any
pattern, with cross currents of swells from the east and south. These
turbulent seas can continue even when the wind has dropped, making a channel
crossing very uncomfortable.\” They continue: \”The traffic of ferries is
almost continuous throughout the day, which demands great vigilance\”. Only
one of the many ferries seemed determined to play chicken enough to scare
us. Although we had the right of way we altered course well ahead to prevent
a collision.

Cook\’s Bay is 1 1/2 miles deep & very protected. There are about 5 other
boats anchored here & 3 local boats tied up to a small cement landing. The
sky was entirely grey and we weren\’t surprised when it started to rain. The
high jagged mountains are covered in lush green foliage. We can hear an
occasional chicken or dog & a dull swoosh of cars on the wet coast road.
Scott reads & I catch up on my website logs.

When the rain breaks for a while we decide to explore ashore. We lower the
dinghy which happily started right up, even though it\’s been a while since
we used the engine. We ask a guy by the cement landing if it is ok for us to
tie our dinghy there, he give the international \”thumbs up\” sign.

Scott first sailed here on Triad II 33 years ago. We were here together 13
years ago by airplane. It was our vacation after helping friends Larry &
Lillian Fredericksen sail their catamaran \”Sea Rose\” across the Pacific from
Puerto Vallarta to the Marquesas. We reminisce. We have fond memories of an
Italian restaurant with great lasagna & a fun French owner. Not sure
exactly which way to search for it we stop & inquire at a little market. No,
never heard of it. We ask a bus driver who is parked on the side of the
road. He probably didn\’t understand English well enough to comprehend our
question. We take a walk along the beautiful coastal road. I chuckled as we
walked by one of the 2 Catholic churches. The guidebook mentioned that
\”sinful yachties can always go and repent\”. Being that we are devout
non-participatarians, we simply admire the view.

On the return it started to rain again so we ducked into a bigger market to
wait it out. We bought some apples & sausage then asked the guy at the meat
counter if he knew of an Italian restaurant nearby. He immediately said:
\”Alfredo\’s\” which rang as familiar, the correct name for the place we were
seeking. It was just a half mile the other direction. As we waited near the
exit for the rain to subside, a man speaking English to his young daughter
entered the store. We so rarely run across Americans or native English
speakers anymore, our ears perked up. We ask him if he\’s on holiday or lives
here. Hunter is friendly and answers our many questions about where to dive,
hike and eat. He lives part time in Santa Barbara & part time here. He was a
graduate & professor at UC Santa Barbara, now working for UC Berkeley\’s
research center here on Moorea. Who knew? The Gump family (of S.F.) wanted
to donate land owned here to Stanford. But that university said they would
sell it to raise funds. The Gumps wanted the land to be kept & used, not
sold. So instead it was given to U.C. Berkeley who built a research center.
What do they do research on? Apparently many things. Hunter is a marine
biologist.

We asked him for a ride to Alfredo\’s, and immediately recognized the
building. It was closed between lunch & dinner, but we intend to get there
for a sentimental dinner, hoping that the lasagna is still as delicious as
it was 13 years ago. I will never forget when I asked what the secret was:
\”lots and lots of cream\”.

Hunter pointed out his favorite gift shop & pizza place. We saw the hotel
we\’d stayed at & the dive shop where we dove 13 years ago. My memories are
not as clear as Scott\’s until we see the places, then it comes back to me a
bit.

We dinghied back to “Beach House” in a drizzle & I couldn\’t wait to turn on
the computer & write about today\’s events. I had not felt inspired to write
much of anything for a while, so I am happy that this outing rejuvenated me..

Cindy & Scott

Dear F&F,

We are slowly making inventory lists so we know what we have & where it is
stowed. When we lived in Los Angeles, our garage used to be in such a state
that it was often easier go buy a new tool instead of trying to find the one
we had. That is not possible or acceptable on the boat. We must know what we
have & where to find it. Otherwise there is a tendency to over-hoard spare
parts, tools & other supplies.

I am trying to reassign usage of space so I can stash more food & certain
toiletries for when we next go offshore. Right now it is such a luxury to go
to the market whenever I want. As a practical matter, once a week is fine.
We\’ve been enjoying salad every day. As well as an international fruit bowl:
New Zealand apples & kiwi. California grapes. Australian oranges. Local
pineapple, papaya & mango.

Scott has lost 10 lbs in the past month & is off sugar & bread. I am so
proud! We eat about 5-6 times per day. I\’ve always been this kind of
\”grazer\”. It helps one eat smaller portions without feeling deprived or
becoming too hungry. Plain yogurt with cut up dried apricots or prunes is a
great snack. We also like yogurt with grated apple sprinkled with cinnamon.

I swim M,W,F at the pool & love every minute of being in the water. It helps
me feel cooler in the afternoons. I get up early to walk before sunrise.

Scott is reading a lot of books on his new Kindle. It is great technology
for all travelers, especially us boaters with limited space for books.

We are beginning the maintenance, repairs and upgrades. The engines and
generator will be getting lots of TLC while we’re here. Scott has met with
the Patrick Chan, the generator mechanic & French crane operator, Bruno. We
will schedule removing the generator from the boat to find the coolant and
oil leaks as well as it’s major maintenance. Those big jobs we’ll begin in
the next few weeks.

Cindy and Scott