Author: kerrizane

  • Wet Blanket…..

    Dear F&F,
    June 3-4, 2009

    I struggled to keep the spinnaker flying in light & shifty air during my 8:00 p.m. to midnight shift. Poor Mike had what even he, Mr. Sunny in All Circumstances, called the \”watch from heck\” midnight to 4:00 a.m. Keeping the boat sailing downwind in light air is a real challenge. That is when we really pay for our \”payload\”. We are weighted down with all the comforts of home. \”Miss Piggy\” can gittey-up with 14+ knots of wind, but under 10 we just park.

    Imagine a video game: the goal is to keep the wind angle between 90 to 100 degrees (on this trip to our left or port side). You must also watch the wind speed: if it is 12 or higher you can steer the boat to the right (which in our course in these conditions is more the direction we would like to go). If the wind is light you have to quickly steer the boat left or else the spinnaker will flop like a giant noisy tablecloth. If you \”lose it\”, meaning that the spinnaker is hanging limp & not moving you along, you must steer right quickly to get the wind to fill it back up, yet not gybe the boat (have the boom cross over to the other side). If I lost some of you there, don\’t worry – there will not be a quiz. It is too cumbersome to explain every single sailing term in plain English. I am hoping over time & repetition you will catch on. But I do try my best to assume most of you don\’t know Sailor Speak.

    One nickname for a spinnaker is \”kite\”. Another is \”chute\” (as in parachute). If you imagine us trying to fly a giant kite it is quite an accurate way to visualize spinnaker sailing. Ours is a teal green & dark blue rocket-type pattern. When I say \”steer\” the boat: I mean turn a one-inch diameter plastic knob of our auto-pilot. One unit is located outside at our helm, the second control unit is inside at the navigation station. Usually we turn it left or right a click or two at a time. Each click is one degree. Sailing this way takes full concentration. You have to wait to even go to the bathroom until you get enough wind to keep the kite flying that long. The goal of the person on watch driving the boat is to #1 Make sure the boat moves as quietly & comfortably so that the off-watch crew can sleep. #2 Go as fast as possible in the right direction, but this is generally second to #1.

    So you are at your video game screen(s). You are watching the wind angle indicator: try to keep it at about 100 degrees to port. You watch the \”Speed Over Ground indicator\” (SOG): this tells us (by GPS calculation) how fast we are actually making way over the earth. We go up & down and rock right & left with the waves – that doesn\’t count. Only forward motion counts. Sometimes we get to surf down a wave & we get bonus Speed Over the Ground, which is more than we can get out of the sails alone. If there is current or swell in the Wrong direction, we go slower. Why am I explaining all this? Because I am going to be out here for a minimum of another 10 days and this is what we do on watch, so I want you to understand. The two video screens plus the one control knob are not ergonomically placed for vision, reach or bodily comfort. We have a remote. Note to self: get it out to try tomorrow.

    We have not had to steer downwind this much for this long before so this is somewhat of a new discovery. We experimented with the automated feature on the auto-pilot to steer according to the wind. But it does not work with big beam swells, which we have had. So even though we are using the auto-pilot & NOT steering by hand with the wheel, we are making minute (pronounce my-noot) adjustments that enable us to make progress despite the light conditions. If I want to sit, I must perch on the edge of the helm seat with my feet through the wheel braced against the helm in a jockey-like position. Mostly I stand. If I get achy from being in an awkward position for a long time
    I strap my 12 volt heating pad around my back, it helps.

    There is a point, which is less than 8 knots of apparent wind for our boat, that it is simply impossible to keep the kite flying. The kite sags, flaps & you slow wayyyy down. You must go wake up another crew to help you \”sock the chute\” (put the kite in its condom), lower the whole thing down, stow it or at least secure it and start motoring. This is how our day began today at 3:30 a.m. Mike had come to assist us at 3:00 a.m. but we were so tired and asleep that we didn\’t exactly leap into action. The poor guy continued to beat the dead horse and was wrung out. Scott heard the chute flapping and not flying properly so he got up half an hour early to help him take it down. I blissfully slept through that part.

    I was so worn out after my 8:00 p.m. to midnight shift, \”playing the video game\” non-stop that I showered, then curled up in the salon to sleep during the first part my off time. The interior of our boat can be noisy in the cabins. Since Scott & I have the \”downhill\” cabin on this trip we get more waves slapping the hull & spanking the bridge deck. It is quieter up in the salon. If I rearrange the cushions a bit, it is a great place to sleep. At 3:00 a.m. after Mike reported to Scott that he was really struggling to keep the kite flying, I moved down to our cabin and fell back asleep until dawn. I felt rested by then, such a relief! It was the first time I got 4 hours of sleep. Before then I had no more than 2 hours, once or twice per day over the previous 3 days.

    Due to a build-up of fatigue, yesterday during the day was tough for me. I was moody, over-tired yet could not sleep. I was cranky that I didn\’t have privacy with Scott. Yet, it is such a help to have Mike and he is such a sweet, nice guy that it was not at all personal toward him. It felt both too crowded onboard and yet I was lonely. Seasickness continues to plague me with any attempts at reading or writing email. Blessedly I can read my book lying down which I finally figured out was the best thing to do with myself when I was not sleeping during my daytime \”off-watches\”. It was a good thing I could not write because in my mind the subject line for this post was: Purgatory & Beyond. What a difference 4 luxurious hours of sleep makes! Today was an entirely different and much, much better day.

    As I said, today began for Scott at 3:30 a.m. I was up at 5:00 a.m., although not due to take over until 8:00 a.m. I knew it was a chance for Scott & I to have the boat to ourselves while Mike was still sleeping. No, I was not THAT well rested, but it was great to have our tea & watch the sunrise & feel peaceful. Motoring is soooo much less work than sailing. We do not have enough fuel to motor all the way to the Marquesas. We hope that the expected trade winds will return soon. But the prediction is for light air today & tomorrow. For me it was a welcome day of feeling better. When I feel lousy (either seasick or overly tired) I am such a Negative Nellie. When I am rested & not sick, I am a real trooper & can-do gal. Pretty normal I guess. The guys are, well, what can I say…GUYS! They are so fine sometimes I want to just smack them. But thank God they are fine & as long as I keep a regular stream of food heading their way they are very happy campers. It is great for Scott to have Mike to be a new set of sailor eyes on our boat underway. They have tackled several small projects & at 3 a.m. this morning I discovered one we never imagined we would tackle underway.

    When I came downstairs to our cabin, Scott asked me for a blanket. It was downright cold the first 3 nights, for me anyway. Mike I think would have to go to Antartica to get cold. Scott is somewhere in between. He just wanted something over his legs, he has not been getting under the sheet. Anyway, I went into the linen cabinet, grabbed a light blanket & felt it was damp. I pawed around the locker: this is supposed to be a dry area, but it was WET. Ugh! I made a mental note to report the problem later, covered Scott\’s legs & conked out.

    Mike, usually an early riser, took full advantage of his off time to recover from his tough night shift. Later that morning, I showed him the wet area. There are 2 cabinets: linens low, cameras above. I emptied both and we discovered dampness coming from up on the deck, trickling down inside the cabinets. YUCK! No wonder I felt my sheets were always a bit damp. Any drop of sea water will keep things feeling wet forever plus cause mildew. We had more than a drop, we had a problem. Mike jumped in with screwdriver, chisel and a can-do attitude while taking out the cosmetic interior cabinet ceiling liner. This covers things that are screwed through the fiberglass deck. Scott got a headache, felt nauseous & whined. He wanted to play electronics with Mike, not discover our boat leaks! Me, I was thrilled. I have been fighting mildew smell and dampness in that area for quite a while. I have been concerned about Scott\’s cameras & indeed, the waist pack he hikes with was full of mildew. I gave Scott 2 aspirin, a tall glass of Gatorade and he quickly got with the program.

    When you have to empty cabinets on a boat, it looks like the place exploded. We fit so much into each and every locker that when it comes out and is sprawling all over the place it is a big mess. Fortunately the lack of wind continued all day and the sea was calm so we were able to work on this project without being too concerned about things blowing out of the cockpit or any of us being overly focused on keeping the boat going. One engine at 2000 rpms does a fine job of that. Bonus – when motoring you can go exactly the direction you want. No need to play the video game since there is no wind & the sails are down. Scott rolled up the main sail when he came up since it was not helping us. We still rotated our watches throughout the day, but the boat just keeps plugging along as she should.

    We ran the watermaker a lot. Scott blasted the hose on the suspicious area while Mike observed from inside and discovered what WE HOPE is the culprit. It is always possible that there could be more than one culprit… While I scrubbed things with vinegar, did loads of laundry & aired things out in the sun, the guys went to work on filling the hole. It was a very small screw hole, but any leak is unacceptable. Custom readouts on our electronic chart plotter are dandy, but this was a live ability issue. These are the reasons that wives jump ship and return to land. Because in a house you are less likely to open the linen closet and grab a wet blanket! All this took most of the day. Mike did the 2-part epoxy application (the product is called \”Splash Zone\” – how appropriate!) Scott applied mildew retardant to the interior of the lockers. By sunset we had put it all back together.

    I have so much more to tell you but it is beyond the end of my short shift & am eager to shower & get to sleep as I have a blessed 8 hours off tonight! Whoo hoo! Getting up for the 4:00 a.m. shift is easy since it starts to get light by 4:30 a.m. Short shifts mean we have 2, two hour shifts: 4:00-6:00 pm & 6:00-8:00 pm. This rotates the schedule every day each one of us has the toughest shift (midnight – 4:00 a.m.) only once every 3 days. We were all game to try it this way & any of us can bring up the schedule for review and alteration as needed. It is fair, but not ideal. Harder to get our sleep patterns in a routine. I keep the watch schedule written out & posted since it is not something that you can easily memorize.

    Going to sign off for now. More Sea Talk tomorrow. Stay tuned, I am behind on telling you about whales, dolphins, squid, flying fish & the mola mola (sun fish).

    Scott & Cindy

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/06/04 15:10
    LATITUDE: 05-33.29S
    LONGITUDE: 102-41.13W
    COURSE: 265T
    SPEED: 5.6
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 5
    WIND_DIR: E
    WAVE_HT: 0.6M
    WAVE_PER: 8
    SWELL_DIR: S
    SWELL_HT: 1.5M
    SWELL_PER: 08
    CLOUDS: 30%
    VISIBILITY: 20
    BARO: 1014.6
    AIR_TEMP: 30.6C
    SEA_TEMP: 25.6C
    COMMENT: Beach House – EN ROUTE – Marquesas Islands, Hiva Oa – 195 nm for 24 hours – MOTORING

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/06/02 14:57
    LATITUDE: 02-55.76S
    LONGITUDE: 096-06.50W
    COURSE: 261T
    SPEED: 11
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 22
    WIND_DIR: 130T
    WAVE_HT: 0.6M
    WAVE_PER: 10
    SWELL_DIR: SSE
    SWELL_HT: 1.8M
    SWELL_PER: 10
    CLOUDS: 85%
    VISIBILITY: 15
    BARO: 1011.7
    AIR_TEMP: 26.7C
    SEA_TEMP: 25.6C
    COMMENT: Beach House – EN ROUTE – Marquesas Islands, Hiva Oa – 221.5 nm for 24 hours

  • Getting Ready for the Passage…..

    Dear F&F,
    May 25-30, 2009

    For me this week was all about \”hunting & gathering\”. Even though we do not expect to be at sea even a full 3 weeks, I am provisioning as if my next shopping opportunity is in 2 months. Wednesday is the day the supply ship arrives at San Cristobal from Guayaquil, mainland Ecuador. It takes them a full day to unload and deliver orders to each \”tienda\” (small shop). Consequently I went to 4-5 markets over 3 days to gather everything I wanted. The most elusive, but finally obtained items were bacon, plain yogurt & flour. White flour in packages all had baking powder already mixed in. I was able to get non-rising white flour from an unlikely shop with a big burlap sack on the floor. I plead with the baker to sell me a kilo of whole wheat flour. Mike bakes bread, so I wanted to make sure we had plenty of the key ingredient.

    Scott\’s focus was making sure \”Beach House\” is ready for this long offshore passage. Sailing from the Galapagos to the Marquesas is the longest single passage we are likely to do without benefit of an \”intermediate stop over\”, ever. He inspected every fitting, all the lifelines, every halyard for wear & chafe. He cleaned the hulls & propellers. Changed the zincs on the saildrives, filled the fuel tanks and extra jerry cans.

    May 28, Thursday: Mike was nearly the last person through customs. The poor guy was worn out after two full days of travel. The LA to Miami flight was fine, but he had a 3 hour delay departing from Miami, which made for a short night in a Guayaquil hotel. He described multiple forms to fill out & questioned many times about the swine flu scare. We saw people wearing white lab coats & makes walking around the San Cristobal airport. Seemed ridiculous, but that\’s the way it was. At least he was able to take the flight directly into San Cristobal & not have to take a ferry from Baltra airport & Santa Cruz, where we originally booked him. He packed light for himself and brought things from L.A. that we need for the boat.

    We could have left Saturday, May 30. But we decided to wait until Sky Dancer returned to see if Scott could retrieve his prescription sunglasses & underwater camera part. This extra day gave us a more relaxed feeling. Scott & Mike did the two electrical jobs on our checklist with success. Today we took Mike inland to see the tortoises, iguanas & coffee farm. We enjoyed this taxi driver more than the first guy Scott & I used to tour. Since he traveled all this way, we wanted to show Mike a bit of the Galapagos. We have all been fairly relaxed & are psyched to leave. We are eager to on to our next \”neighborhood\”.

    Last night was a political fiesta in town which may seem like an oxymoron, but that was how it was explained to us. We had eaten at a restaurant & were told it started at 8:00 pm. That is late for us to stay out, so we returned to \”Beach House\”. Even out here at the anchorage the intermittent speeches & music were clearly heard until 2:00 a.m. We got our Zarpe (exit papers) from Bolivar (our agent) today, so we are good to go.

    Mike is an easy going, generally happy person. Very pleasant to have around. Thank you to his wife Beth for letting him crew with us! It will be interesting to see how the dynamic is for the 3 of us 24/7 over the next 2 plus weeks. He has never been seasick in his life. I made it perfectly clear how awful it can be for me. Since I did so well on the dive boat preventing seasickness with stugeron taken on a schedule, I intend to start with that. I may put on a patch after a week if I feel the conditions warrant it, since I don\’t like the idea of taking any medication for a long time. I am no longer eager to put on my trusty scopolamine patch since I developed a skin allergy to it & can\’t tolerate wearing it more than a day which is kind of a waste.

    Having said all that, I am truly, truly hoping & praying for smooth sailing. A fun, fast, easy trip with plenty of rest. I know I have plenty of food onboard but the duty of planning & preparing every meal does weigh on me a bit. I did not write out my menu plan for even the first few days. I haven\’t had time or been in the mood. I did cook up a batch of chicken mole which is in the freezer in individual portion vacuum bags. As well as my first trial at pre-cooked & frozen scrambled eggs (with yellow bell pepper & onion, since at that time I could not find bacon). It would be nice if both our men could lose a few pounds on this crossing, but food is definitely a comfort item when at sea & there is not much opportunity for exercise.

    I am reading a book bought here about a German family that were early settlers in the Galapagos. After finishing that, I will launch into Thor Heyerdall\’s \”Fatu Hiva\” which is about the famous authors experience in that Marquesas Island just before WW2. We have about 8 books on Costa Rica & the Galapagos that are now old news & unwanted weight that we will contribute to the dive boats library.

    This is a new experience for us to do such long of a passage & to have a third person at sea. It has been 13 years since I last crossed the Pacific & due to my inexperience & lack of knowledge, considered myself a passenger. Yet I did keep the 2:00-6:00 a.m. watch for 2 weeks straight. We are going to start out trying a rotating watch schedule, but may revert to a fixed one if I am not able to get into a sleep routine. I am the most challenged sleeper & likely to be the crankiest crew member if not rested enough. I can\’t imagine a better choice of crew than Mike. I have complete confidence in his skills as a sailor, fixer of all things and someone who will \”go with the flow\”. He & Scott are kindred spirits, excited about the same boat & latest electronic stuff. With 2 happy guys onboard I should be in good shape. Some pre-departure anticipation feelings… I\’m sure I will relax a bit more once we actually get going.

    Scott & Cindy

  • Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos & Return \”Home\”…..

    Dear F&F,
    May 23-24, 2009

    We had the opportunity to do 2 dives this morning at Gordon\’s Rock off the east side of Santa Cruz Island. Most of us went on the 1st dive. And NONE of us elected to do it again. Why? Because there was no visibility, nothing to see & arduous conditions. It was very strong current & surge, so hand over hand combat crawl along the rocky reef. Scott & I are so different in our athletic abilities. He can kick with his barn door fins against the 2 knot current while I am struggling, gripping, grasping, gasping, sucking down my air. Scott keeps looking over his shoulder wondering what the heck is taking me so long. I am finally able to signal him that it is time to ascend because I am low on air. He looks surprised since he has plenty. He who gasps ups mountains whilst I skip up them! In the water with strenuous conditions we are the opposite. C\’est la vie. I am finished. I am finished diving like a Navy Seal cadet. I am finished with the group travel. I am finished with twin beds. I am finished even of eating their food. Sigh. We came, we saw, we dove, we are disappointed.
    The entire trip should have been at Wolf & Darwin dive sites. The rest was \”filler\”. Not worth the price of admission. The one opportunity we had to see the whale shark was spectacular, but when we learned that in August & September you can see 8-10 whale sharks on many dives it was hard to be content.

    \”Sky Dancer\” motored and anchored in the main port of Santa Cruz. This is the place exactly 2 weeks ago tonight that Scott & I pulled in at 9:00 pm, searching for refuge & sleep after 2 1/2 days at sea & found no protection from the open sea & waves. A crowded, ugly anchorage.

    We took their dinghy to shore before the scheduled group tour of the Charles Darwin Center. I did a flurry of shopping at the grocery store & returned to the boat with four large boxes of provisions for \”Beach House\”. Not the kind of souvenir shopping the rest of the crowd would be doing. I must have enough food for the 3 of us for at least a month. I had heard the grocery shopping was better here than at San Cristobal so wanted to take advantage.

    We didn\’t see much new or different at the Charles Darwin Center from what we\’d already seen at the tortoise reserve on San Cristobal. Scott took some photos of the other divers posing with the giant tortoises. The town was ok, the usual tourist shops & some overpriced art shops. We got a pizza & still ate dinner later on \”Sky Dancer\”. We were eager to wake up at San Cristobal & move home.

    Scott got a ride from the panga with all our dive gear & had to face the results of a week of sea lions onboard. It took him a while to hose off all the sealion poop. I meanwhile packed our clothes & got help transferring my four boxes of food to the panga & also got a ride over. In my haste I forgot Scott\’s sunglasses & part of his underwater camera equipment, but we were able to retrieve those later.

    Happily the solar panels and 1 hour per day auto run of the generator kept up our batteries so the fridge & freezer stayed cold. It was a bit stuffy from being closed up for a week, but so nice to be home. We quickly switched gears. Mike arrives in 4 days and we plan to set sail soon after. Lots to do to get ready for the long offshore passage.

    Scott & Cindy

  • Partial Reinforcement…..

    Dear F&F,
    May 22, 2009

    Only 2 dives scheduled this morning, both at the same site off Isabella Island. We did the first dive & it just wasn\’t interesting enough to do again. We know that there is always a chance to see something you didn\’t see the first time, but overall the diving has been hit or miss. Yesterday one of the 4 dives we did was outstanding. The others, not great. For me, the not great parts are: very rough sea conditions which make the dinghy ride to the site uncomfortable. However, mostly the rides have been fairly short, so that is tolerable.

    It turned out that the flooding of my dry suit was user error. I\’ve had no problem keeping dry on the inside if I completely close the waterproof zipper. I did wear my wetsuit a few times in the warmer northern islands. In my wetsuit I typically back roll off the dinghy then kick down head first. I tried that stunt exactly once in my dry suit! I must do a feet first descent because of where the exhaust valve of my suit is located on my upper arm. Any air in my suit is up at my feet & there is no way for me to get it out & descend. Meanwhile the swell is bobbing me about feet up at the surface & it takes me a minute to realize I must right myself to vertical – head up – in order to drop down on the reef.

    All the divers from the dinghy back rolling in at once & try to descend with their gear, not always conscious of who is around them. So, I\’ve gotten conked on the head with a tank, kicked with fins & pawed at with flailing arms. Just with that description, I am afraid those of you who were all signed up for the next dive class just bailed out. But let me tell you what else you are missing…

    Surge & Current: We had been warned at every site, except for today, that there is strong current. What is strong? Even 1-2 knots is hard or impossible to swim against. We must pull ourselves hand over hand on the rocks. This of course, hoping to not accidentally grab a moray eel or sea urchin. Mostly where the shark action was up at Wolf & Darwin Islands we were instructed to drop down & hang on to the rocks. Just wait & watch. Scott is always out in front with his video or camera eager to get the best shots as often the animal life is best right at the beginning of the dive before a large group of divers scare the sharks away. YES, we scare the sharks away. I, his buddy, do my best to stay with him. I often stay a bit shallower & behind him, but try to be where we can make eye contact when he looks around for me.

    Mostly I am watching Scott but also trying to keep an eye on the rest of the group (4 other divers plus Edwin, the dive master). There 2 pangas for our 2 groups of divers, so we are requested to stay together as much as possible so they don\’t have to search too far for us as we surface. Scott has a good eye & figured out quickly that the sharks are patrolling the rocky reef at about 80 feet deep. They are filling our tanks with Nitrox, as they did at Coco, so we can stay that deep for about 20 minutes.

    The second dive yesterday was non-stop shark action for the full 20 minutes. Many Galapagos & hammerheads swimming slowly against the strong current. Meanwhile I am trying my darndest to wedge into a spot where I can stay put & not fly about in the current. It is not just left or right current flowing, but also an up & down surge that really makes it tough to keep your position. I am so glad I have my \”low volume\” mask because I feel the pressure of the streaming water rushing against my head & imagine it could tear the mask right off my face if it was a bigger mask with more air space inside.

    Frankly I do not love this kind of diving. I always imagine I am in Navy Seal training. And then I remember that this is an elective activity & start imagining all the other things I could have done with the money we spent on this trip…. Sigh. I try not to dwell on the negatives too much. The sharks are intriguing, but for me no comparison to the thrill of swimming with the manta rays or whales. But there are no manta rays or whales here. At least not at this season. We were very lucky to get the glimpse we did of the whale shark on this trip. It is usually seen only in August, September & October.

    Blue Water Time: Our dive master Edwin usually gets bored of hanging out on the reef after 30 minutes or so & motions for us to swim out into the open blue water. Sometimes he has us kicking against the current 15-20 minutes. Sometimes he lets us drift. I think he is amused by his control over us. I don\’t mind getting the exercise with kicking & always have plenty of air, so it is still safe even if I am huffing & puffing aerobically. It is harder for me in my dry suit to maintain a stable depth as we swim shallower & do our 15 feet deep safety stop. This is because it is not made of neoprene, & has no inherent buoyancy. I either add or exhaust out air from my suit or my Buoyancy Compensator jacket (BC). As the waves are crashing overhead, it can be a bit like a washing machine & I don\’t love that part. But when groups of 2, 4, 5 or more dolphins started circling us I forget all the effort & am happy to be there, happy to have that experience. We have only swum with dolphins in the wild a few times. They are not usually that interested in divers. They are often intrigued with moving boats, but divers are too slow & awkward in the water to hold their interest. There a lot of either dull or uncomfortable times & some amazing experiences. That\’s what keeps me going.

    Comfort & Boat Life: Several of the other tourists continue to be seasick. I have shared Sandy\’s Stugeron medication from Mexico with several & keep taking it prophylactically myself. Knock wood, I have not been seasick. My ears however are completely waterlogged, so my hearing is poor. I diligently put in my vinegar/hydrogen peroxide brew to kill any sea critters, then use my special ear dryer. Today is my 4th day on the antibiotics so I have not missed any diving due to my ears. Last night was the first time I had actual pain & had to take something for it. Otherwise I can mostly ignore the itchy canals. It is just as well the diving today was not that great because I will have until tomorrow morning to keep my head dry.

    We motored 3 hours to Santiago island, then hiked there this afternoon. I love to walk, hike, stretch my legs, but unfortunately it was hot at 3:00 p.m. with the sun beating down on us & no breeze. We affectionately refer to these mis-timed outings as \”death marches\”. The islands are not green, lush & beautiful. They are stark & rugged. Black lava rocky outcroppings. Scraggly brush, some cactus. A few indigenous birds. We had another opportunity to see the marine iguanas. Which we already saw during our land tour of San Cristobal so rather BTDT (been there done that). My apologies for sounding so blase about the Galapagos – it is all really fine, but not spectacular, fabulous, you-should-have-been-there. Rent a DVD & enjoy the Galapagos from the comfort of your own home. Or if you are a scuba diver, only come in August through October.

    Books: I finally finished Mark Twain\’s interminable \”Following the Equator\” – thank God! It went on & on forever with so few wonderful paragraphs that made me smile or I think clever; I dog-eared only about 10 pages out of the hefty 712. I plan to write down the choicest bits & then leave this tome, with it\’s deceivingly romantic title, on the book trade table for some unsuspecting passenger to pick up for their flight home. I plunged into \”Sister of My Heart\” that Karen (who is a Sister of My Heart) loaned me & am happy to report that despite it\’s setting primarily in India, it IS a page turner & I am enjoying it during these long passages between islands. Mark Twain may have journeyed around the world, but that un-recommendable book spent 75% of the time in India. Not a place I\’ve ever yearned to go & that book did nothing to dissuade me. \”Sister of My Heart\” is a novel, so I can enjoy the imagined scents & sights of this fascinating country without the reality of Slumdog Millionaire (last years Academy Award winning film which Skye warned me is \”not a Cindy movie\”).

    Two more dives tomorrow, land time at Santa Cruz Island where we first pulled in but soon left its miserable anchorage & then Sunday morning Home Sweet Boat. We came, we saw, we dove. Time for this one to return to my own floating home & prepare for the big journey ahead.

    Scott & Cindy

  • Cindy Swims With A WHALE SHARK – Darwin Island, Galapagos…..

    https://svbeachhouse.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Whale-Shark-Darwin-Island.m4v


    Cindy Swims With A 40 foot long, 80,000 lb Whale Shark. THESE ARE THE LARGEST SPECIES OF FISH IN THE WORLD. Runtime 3 min 10 seconds. Video by Scott Stolnitz, Music, “Under The Waterfall” by David Lanz & Paul Speer. If you have a slow connection, be patient, the video loads progressively. If you need the Quicktime player, click the link below. ENJOY!…..

  • Onboard \”Sky Dancer\” Dive Boat…..

    Dear F&F,
    May 17-19, 2009

    Because the Galapagos rules limit where private yachts can go, Scott arranged for us to go on this boat for 1 week of scuba diving. We have been on 4 live aboard dive trips of this kind in the past. The last was about 13 years ago. It is a splurge & hopefully a \”vacation\”. I know this sounds funny since we are retired. But the first night I woke up & the boat was underway & Scott was also right there asleep, it was so strange. Neither of us on watch. Free from any responsibility of maintaining or caring for the boat. No navigation to figure out. No watching the weather. No cooking por moi – a real leisure cruise, with diving – my favorite!

    The Boat: I was upset at first by the horrible smell of mildew in our below deck cabin. Scott had requested an upstairs one with a view & windows that open, but we were lucky to get a cabin at all. Even though he booked this trip in February, it was the last room available. Once we got underway the ventilation system kicked on & the smell improved greatly. Or else I got used to it. Anyway, our cabin is fine. The motion of the boat is less on the lower decks than above, so from the point of seasick prevention it is better that we are down low. We have two twin beds, mine is a bit higher, but they are not bunk beds. Scott\’s is a bit longer & separated on each side of the small room. Plenty of drawers under the beds, surface area & a closet to stow all our stuff. It seems like we brought everything but the kitchen sink! We moved on before the other guests arrived, who all came by airplane from various places, & had strict luggage limits. We are so used to having everything with us all the time that it was hard to leave anything behind. We moved in with 3 dinghy loads of stuff!

    Dive Gear: We had been told by email from the boat company that we would not be allowed to bring our own scuba tanks. The reason we prefer to dive with our own tanks is that they are steel, not aluminum, so heavier & less weight is needed on our weight belts. The first dive was a \”check out\” dive so the dive master could see how we handle ourselves underwater. I used my dry suit for the first time in several years & was pleased that it was not only toasty warm, but I felt very comfortable managing it. Diving with a dry suit requires one additional hose from my regulator to be able to put a little bit of air inside my suit to relieve the \”shrink wrap\” effect as I descend. The water is about 5 degrees cooler than at Coco Island so I expect to be in my dry suit most of the time, although I brought my new 6 mm wetsuit since it may be warmer in the northern islands. With their aluminum tank I needed to wear 18 lbs! We spoke to the dive master after the checkout dive & he had no problem with us bringing over our own steel tanks. Their panga driver gave us a short ride to where our boat was anchored & we brought back our tanks. Scott\’s steel tank holds 95 cubic feet of air, which gives the big guy an equivalent amount of air to my 80 cubic feet. I was able to take 10 lbs off my weight belt, so am much more comfortable.

    Other Guests: It is an international group. Two Canadians from Calgary: one a retired woman dentist originally from Tanzania. The other Calgarian owns property in Costa Rica where she hopes to build a house & retire. Three guys from Monterrey, Mexico including one who has done the \”Tour de France\” four times and was a team mate of Lance Armstrong. One New Zealand Guy. Honeymooners from England. Two guys from Buenos Aires. A beautiful couple from Curacao: he is originally from the Netherlands. She does not dive, but is enjoying herself anyway. A couple from San Fransisco that we hit it off with right away. Scott & I are by far the most experienced divers. Some are really newbies, or have just not been diving recently. We help them get their act together whenever we can.
    There are only a couple guys besides Scott doing underwater photography or video. So it is not a competitive crowd which is great, very mellow. Everyone is friendly & easy going. The Latins speak enough English so that we can communicate with them. Scott & one Calgary women seem the oldest of the group, although besides the young newlyweds everyone seems in the 35-45 range.

    Crew: I think there are as many crew as guests (15). Our cabin is cleaned & tidied up several times per day by Darwin (gotta love the name). When we get out of a dive there are warm towels. They feed us snacks & hot drinks (cocoa or tea) besides breakfast, lunch & dinner. I am really enjoying being served & not cooking at all. We are always hungry after a dive so it is hard not to eat too much. After the last dive, alcohol is included if you wish & I\’ve been enjoying the Vino Tinto from Chile (red table wine).

    Dive Highlights:
    Yesterday I DID get to snorkel with penguins. They are so cute. Not much larger than a seagull. Standing or hopping on the lava shore rocks or swimming fast below. I have always loved penguins. They make me laugh. *SEE VIDEO GALLERY*

    Dive #2 today at Wolf Island was the best so far. Non-stop sharks – both hammerheads & Galapagos sharks. A couple of eagle rays. A few turtles. Lots of moray eels. Plenty of fish of every size & shape. Unfortunately Scott had some technical difficulty with the video so did not get as much great footage as he could have. C\’est la vie. We have regaled the group with our stories of San Benedicto manta rays & shown them the \”Manta Magic\” video which is always a crowd pleaser.

    On Dive #4 I got soaked on the inside. I felt the water flooding in as soon as I did my back roll from their panga into the water. Not a pleasant feeling. It wasn\’t like I was going to freeze to death, so I continued with the dive & did not alert Scott to my problem for about 30 minutes. He noticed me hugging myself, trying to keep my armpits warm. I was able to finger spell (sign language) to him: \”total wet\”. He understood & we notified the dive master that we were going to ascend. The light was already dim at 5:30 pm so I didn\’t feel guilty for taking him out of the water, we didn\’t miss much. It was a rather dull dive. We searched for a tear in a seam or the seals at the neck & wrists but could not find a breech. We suspect I had just not completely closed the waterproof zipper & through that small opening water flowed in. The deck hands were most kind in helping me rinse my fleece long johns in fresh water & took them to the boats dryer. We hung my suit inside out. I will try it again tomorrow.

    Dinner tonight was prawns which were delicious. It is a treat for me to have seafood at every meal that it\’s offered. Scott is not much of a fish eater, so I don\’t usually prepare it for us. We also had chocolate ice cream for dessert, so my day was complete. We are in bed by 9:00 p.m. & up at 6:00 a.m. They keep the boat on Ecuador time (Central) even though the Galapagos is actually 1 hour earlier (Mountain). I guess it helps the guests feel less jet lagged & the \”wake up\” call at 7:00 a.m. does not sound as early as 6:00 a.m. Scott told me they do this to keep boat and the main office in Ecuador on the same time zone.

    Yesterday besides 2 dives and snorkeling with the penguins, we went ashore for a hike up to a viewpoint where we saw the signature photo (Tower of San Bartolome) from on high. It felt good to exercise on land & the view was worthwhile. For the photographer he would have preferred a sunrise view than the sunset. But in the moment it was great.

    Scott & Cindy

  • San Cristobol Island, Galapagos…..

    Dear F&F,
    May 11, 2009

    We knew \”Sky Dancer\” was scheduled to move from Santa Cruz back to San Cristobal that night so I was looking for her. Just before 5:00 a.m. she appeared. Scott got up & spoke to their captain on VHF radio asking if we could follow them in. He said yes, so we had the benefit of a leading boat plus first light. What a difference! Many cruising boats, including several other catamarans. Plenty of room for everyone. Flat water, as the island protects Wreck Bay from the wind & swell.

    We flew the Q (quarantine) & Ecuador flags & then I conked out from 6:30-9:30 a.m. Scott took the dinghy ashore on a scouting mission since we needed to find an agent to check in. We heard that other boaters had a perfectly fine stay at Academy Bay a month or so ago. So we suspect the weather has everything to do with the conditions there. But it was certainly more crowded & seemed very industrial to us. Scott quickly found 3 agents & after we got a thumbs-up from the dive master on one of them, we engaged Bolivar. He took our passports & copies of our other documents yesterday. Otherwise Sunday was a recovery day. Today he showed up on the dot at 9:00 a.m. & we went him to Immigration. We don\’t get our passports back until tomorrow. I guess they want to check if we are wanted criminals or some such thing. To get our international Zarpe to leave we will contact the agent 2 days before our departure date. The fees here are not as expensive as for our stay at Coco. There was no onboard inspection by the Navy or required fumigation as was rumored.

    The fearless sea lions climb onboard wherever they can. *SEE PHOTO GALLERY* All the catamarans with our inviting stern steps are targets. We tried stringing lines across but that is not much of deterrence. The small ones wriggle under. They could easily make their way up into the cockpit, although they have not done this yet. We love to see them in the water, but it is not so amusing to have a large wild animal outside the front door, or blocking your way to your car (dinghy). We have to figure out a better way to block them. They cough & sneeze & bark & take turns knocking each other off the steps. It is pretty funny, as long as I can keep my Good Humor hat on.

    On the taxi boat to shore (50 cents each – such a bargain) we met a couple of other cruisers. One couple is leaving for the Marquesas today. She said they enjoyed a land tour here with a taxi driver recommended by Bolivar. We arranged the same thing, beginning at 8:00 am tomorrow.

    I need to start being more realistic on what these third world places are going to be like, despite romantic names like Costa Rica & the Galapagos. The town here is very similar to Turtle Bay, in Baja Mexico: dirty & depressing (in my opinion). The shopping opportunities are limited to small \”tiendas\”. The meat is not of a quality that I am willing to eat. I am so glad that Mike can bake bread. We will be eating a lot of beans & rice on the way to the Marquesas…

    We had a half hour stop at an internet site, but not good enough to do Skype so not very interesting to me. I did get to retrieve Skye\’s e-card for Mothers Day, so that was worthwhile. We had a soft serve ice cream cone. I left the shore visit feeling quite down. I think the fatigue of the passage combined with uneasiness about leaving the boat unattended for a week while we go diving, plus the burden of provisioning with limited resources have put me in a funky mood. Hopefully tomorrow we\’ll be getting out to see the real beauty of this place and help wash away the blues.

    Hope to send a happier Galapagos report after tomorrow. I am most looking forward to snorkeling with penguins a week from today!
    Scott & Cindy

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/05/10 12:23
    LATITUDE: 00-53.67S
    LONGITUDE: 089-36.81W
    MARINE: NO
    WIND_SPEED: 8
    WIND_DIR: 135T
    CLOUDS: 80%
    VISIBILITY: 15
    BARO: 1011
    AIR_TEMP: 29.4C
    COMMENT: Beach House – ANCHORED – Isla SAN CRISTOBAL….after a side trip !!!