Author: kerri

  • Palmerston Church & Tour…..

    Dear F&F,
    Sunday is church day on Palmerston Island and we were invited to attend.
    Bob and Taia picked us up and we were whisked through the boat pass to shore. Here we met all the islands ladies and many gentleman dressed in their Sunday finest.

    The religion is the Cook Islands Christian Church a Protestant denomination. The founder of the church, an Englishman, famously went on to be eaten by the islanders in Vanuatu a 1000 miles west of here in the mid/late 1800\’s.

    The service was about an hour, some lovely singing and we met the islands nurse, Jock who was the Church\’s Deacon and school principal, Yvonne. Yvonne was the wife of Teddy and she had emigrated from the Netherlands. Her sister had married a Marsters and she met and married one herself.

    After the lovely service (see Photo Gallery of Palmerston Island), we met Daniel, an Aussie ex-pat who lived in the UK and was a PHD candidate living on the island for the last 6 months. Daniel was even taller than me so you can imagine he stood out quite a bit. His thesis was not so much on the genealogy of the Marsters but rather about the viability of their future. He had lived amongst all the families and finally had his own digs on Bob\’s land in William Marsters\’ son\’s house. Also, the former infirmary. His tenure their was a bit mixed having gotten along with most of the families but after we had left, we heard he was on the outs with Simon and Edward\’s family. About what? We don\’t know. He was great friends with one of the current patriarchs, Bill, who ran the Palmerston Island Yacht Club. His Mom, Hinano was soon to become my dental patient. Who knew!? First, Bill….

    Bill had spent a great time \”off island\” and was perhaps the most worldly guy on the island. He opened the Palmerston Island Yacht Club on the premise that an annual world cruising rally would be coming through. The \”boaties\” wanted a watering hole and gathering spot. Indeed, 150 boats showed up one year (about 10 years ago) and it was a great local hit. However, as the anchorage was a bit tenuous, the cruising rally chose to skip Palmerston in the future and the Yacht Club pretty much has lied empty since. Bill will tell his tale of lament to anyone who will listen. It\’s kind of a cool place and is where I first met Hinano, his Mom.

    Jock told me that Hinano had a dental infection for several days and her face had indeed swollen up to three times normal. She asked if I\’d have a look. News travels fast when you have a skill in a place like Palmerston. Hinano, 82 years young, the islands oldest resident had asthma and a wonderful disposition. Jock, the nurse was asking my opinion, but all along grooming me to remove the tooth for her. I asked her if she had taken any teeth out before and she said yes, about 85, but I break a lot of roots!

    She had indeed taken 3 out of Bob the week before I arrived. Unfortunately for Bob, two were the wrong teeth!… Doing this without X-ray in the USA would be malpractice, out here, not so much. My concern of course was Hinano\’s age, asthma and who knew what those roots were going to look like on a back lower first molar?!!! Jost told me she didn\’t know how to numb lower teeth so was doubly glad I was there. 20 minutes later, the tooth was out and patient doing well. The next day she wanted to adopt me.

    We\’d met Bob in one of our Taia tours and along tagged Mehau, her youngest and cute as a button sister. Mehau was about 9 years old and endeared herself to Cindy immediately. She constantly punched me, I took that as a sign of acceptance. She is a very photogenic young girl and you can see her on the Photo Gallery of Palmeston Island along with the who family……We interestingly learned on our second tour that William Marsters asked to be buried NEXT to his headstone and not under the headstone as is traditional. Why? He wanted everyone to walk on him so he would be remembered. It was said that Taia\’s grandmother Sara had done the same.

    All in all another very successful day at Palmerston Island.

    Scott and Cindy

  • Palmerston Atoll Day 2…….

    Dear F&F,
    We were first to arrive, but the Puddle Jump fleet was about to arrive and in numbers!

    Several hours after we\’d arrived, s/v \”Na Maka\” with Jerome, NAT and the kids arrived in the middle of the night. Jerome is not timid and found one of the two other moorings next to which he tied too. The next morning, bright and early, Simon and Edward came to \”claim\” our French friends.

    As they were not in time for the great customs check in, they were told they would have to wait till Monday morning which didn\’t make them exactly happy. C\’est la vie! as they say in France.

    We also knew that s/v Quickstar, s/v Visions of Johanna and s/v Curious were not far behind. As we were all pretty close and we were in email contact, we would try and give Bob a heads up as to when they expected to arrive. The reason this mattered is that part of the curious behavior of the claiming process is that the families don\’t like the \”boaties\” to get together unless they are with the same claiming family. Why? Well, it\’s due to those long ago established exclusive trading rights business. Please understand. There are NO STORES on this island. NONE, ZIP, ZERO. All food is imported, grown or caught. Hence, we \”boaties\” were and are a prime source of supplies to all the islanders.

    Everything from gasoline, tools, entertainment and yes even food are substantially supplied by visiting yachts. The trading ships that do come here make only random visits 2-3 times per YEAR!

    The next day, our host family showed up in force. Bob, daughters Taia and Goldeen along with son Bob. Bob was trying to be very careful not to damage our boat with his aluminum dinghy and yelled at Taia just before touch down, \”BAH MA GA\”!…… Suddenly, Taia stood up and kept Bob from playing ding \”Beach House\”.

    They came aboard to invite us to lunch, all smiles and very pleasant. I asked Taia if she had a clue what \”BAH MA GA\” meant and she said, \”Of course\”, it means \”Push Em\’ off Girl\”! I said, \”You\’re kidding?\” She smiled and told me that they speak two languages. English and Cook Island Pidgeon. The Pidgeon amonst themselves and the English to the rest of us. I asked if it was a Polynesian dialect similar to Maori? She said, \”No not really, no other Cook Islanders would be able to speak it to us\”. She said none of them spoke Polynesian per say but just the local Pidgeon.

    We were whisked off to shore through \”Boat Pass\”, a very small unmarked tricky twisty shallow pass through the reef. Once ashore, we were given a tour of the house. Think very rustic charmer!…. Then lunch, lot of Parrot fish and then a tour of the island by Taia. This to me was a great highlight of our visit. Taia, who is a wonderful young lady has had it pretty rough. She had to go to New Zealand as a very young child and missed a great deal of school. The reason for the trip was a one year medical visit to have eye surgery, a small benign tumor removed and re-hab. So, it wasn\’t exactly fun. The Marsters due to their unique heritage have three threads of health issues. Eyes, asthma and joint issues. This of course has made them a bit of a living laboratory for various study groups from around the world.

    The tour was amazing. Taia had done it a hundred times, but made it seem very fresh to me and unabashedly answered any questions. She told us about the families history, the infighting, the jealousies, etc. She among all the islanders was the most open about the history as she understood it. We were shown the demarcation lines of the three families on \”Home Island\”. It quickly became clear that Bob\’s family had the largest piece by far of \”Home Island\”. Though all divided amongst the families in roughly equal amounts when you added up all 7 islands, Home Island was largely Bob\’s families\’. As this was the case and everyone lived here, Bob donated the land for the Church and the School. The original William Marsters house and his first son\’s house were also here as was the islands main cemetary.

    Cindy and I asked why boats like ours were not allowed to enter what was known as \”Big Pass\”. Jerome had heard that some boats including a catamaran from the year before had entered the shallow pass. We were told officially that it \”hurt fishing\”. That some of the past \”boaties\” had polluted the lagoon with their toilets.

    Jerome listened, read between the lines and it was his opinion (which I shared), that it all came down to control. If the \”boaties\” were inside, they wouldn\’t need an escorted ride ashore. This meant that the host family could not control their movement and it came down to that trading thing again. Frankly, Bob didn\’t seem to care so much, but he knew that the other two families did. Another advantage Bob\’s family had was that all shore traffic had to pass right in front of his house and land on his beach. The other families had no choice, but didn\’t seem trustful of each other when it came to \”business\”. Socially, they seemed to get along fine, but when it came to trade….a trade war was always a looming possibility.

    For details on our tour with Taia, see the captions in the Photo Gallery of Palmerston Island.

    Scott and Cindy

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2010/07/17 20:07
    LATITUDE: 17-59.41S
    LONGITUDE: 162-19.01W
    COURSE: 269T
    SPEED: 8.4
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 19
    WIND_DIR: 125T
    WAVE_HT: 2.0M
    WAVE_PER: 7
    SWELL_DIR: NE
    SWELL_HT: 2.5M
    SWELL_PER: 7
    CLOUDS: 30%
    VISIBILITY: 20
    BARO: 1018.4
    AIR_TEMP: 28.3C
    COMMENT: Beach House – En Route – Palmerston Atoll, 50 miles to go at 10 am local, expect 4:30 pm arrival still on Hawaii time

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2010/07/17 00:30
    LATITUDE: 18-48.34S
    LONGITUDE: 159-56.05W
    COURSE: 298T
    SPEED: 7.2
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 14
    WIND_DIR: 081T
    WAVE_HT: 3.0M
    WAVE_PER: 7
    SWELL_DIR: ENE
    SWELL_HT: 2.0M
    SWELL_PER: 8
    CLOUDS: 40%
    VISIBILITY: 20
    BARO: 1017.8
    AIR_TEMP: 27.2C
    SEA_TEMP: 28.3C
    COMMENT: Beach House – EN ROUTE – Aitutaki Atoll to Palmerston Atoll, expect late afternoon, early pm arrival tomorrow. Don\’t put your stern anchor in concrete!…

  • HOW WE DECIDE WHEN TO LEAVE…..

    Dear F&F,
    July 15-16, 2010
    HOW WE DECIDE WHEN TO LEAVE

    Thursday, July 15

    We must exit this island\’s shallow pass during high tide. The tide gets
    later by nearly an hour every day. Wednesday July 14 Scott helped lead in
    our Canadian dock mates on sailboat \”Quickstar\” at 11:40 a.m. Thursday\’s
    time was 12:30 p.m. Friday will be 1:35 p.m. If we wait any longer, we will
    be obliged to do one of two less than desirable actions: spend one night
    anchored outside the reef and leave the next morning. OR leave right away on
    the late tide & have to spend 2 nights at sea for the 200 mile trip to our
    next destination

    I was tempted to stay another 2 weeks, when the high tide would cycle around
    to be in the mornings again. Peter & Diana just arrived & we only had 2
    nights to catch up with them. Sailboat \”Visions of Johanna\” are due to
    arrive July 17, so we would just miss them! Scott\’s compelling argument that
    we leave Friday was the reminder that the large group of \”Puddle Jumpers\”
    would likely catch up to us if we lingered here that long. Hmmm… We like a
    certain amount of socialization, but that group is big. Often 50 boats
    descending on an island altogether. Marcus told us his experience with this
    crowd in Moorea which sounded awful. I agreed with Scott, we will depart
    Friday & push our speed to spend only 1 night at sea.

    Once our decision was made, we began to get into \”go mode\”. Hoarding more
    food, stowing loose items in their proper place onboard, saying our
    goodbye\’s. We thanked the following Aitutaki residents for their kindness &
    assistance: Pitonga from Air Rarotonga, Richard & Onu from Bubbles Below,
    Bob at Customs (while Scott completed official check-out paperwork), Bonnie
    from the fuel station, Allen from Rino\’s scooter rentals, the free range egg
    lady and all the workers in the nearest market who were always friendly &
    helpful. They are used to yachties & other tourists coming & going. Our stay
    was longer than most. Despite disappointing scuba diving, the lagoon clams
    were a happy surprise and it was the calmest anchorage I am likely to see in
    2 months. It is unlikely that we will ever return there, and that knowledge
    gives me a bit of pang. Just as we settle in & become familiar & comfortable
    with a place it seems time to leave. This is the bane of us vagabonds: Do I
    Stay or Do I Go? (can you hear the song?

    We had lunch at Mac Ned\’s. We had been told by several people they have the
    best burgers on the island. Scott preferred his burger at Koru (where I had
    the best ever fish & chips), but I was pleased with the Mac Ned burger.
    Finding a slice of beet in with the beef patty & cheese was a pleasant
    surprise. Never met a vegetable I didn\’t like! We both agreed the fries &
    thick shakes were terrific. You have to order a \”thick\” shake to get it
    American style. If you just order a milkshake, you\’ll get a very thin one –
    more milk than ice cream.

    LAST DAY at AITUTAKI – Friday July 16

    I wanted to buy more eggs if possible & see what other produce I can score
    at the market. Food hoarding mentality is in full gear as we prepare to sail
    even further \”off the grid\”. Scott gets more New Zealand dollars from the
    ATM because the next island where we might need money (Niue) does not have
    an ATM. Apparently you can get a cash advance on your credit card at the
    bank, but we have been stockpiling NZ money here since we know we will use
    it.

    We had heard a couple days ago that a local cargo ship was coming in from
    Rarotonga. We thought that was a bit weird since everyone had assured us
    they get supplies by ship only once a month, directly from NZ. When we awoke
    today & looked out the pass we saw the cruise ship Paul Gauguin! What a
    surprise. Too big to come into the pass, they use high speed shuttles to
    ferry their passengers ashore. They set up a shade tent, literally rolled
    out a red carpet & had local natives hitting drums & one man in a hula skirt
    blowing a conch shell in welcome. The first time we saw & heard the show it
    was amusing. The 2nd shuttle\’s welcome routine was still interesting. We
    were stunned to see a mass of tourists descend on sleepy little Aitutaki. By
    the 3rd shuttle, it was annoying & we needed to get on with our business.
    Scott took a few minutes of video of the mayhem. Their \”Welcome Tent\” was
    set up exactly where we tie our dinghies to come ashore. Big step up onto
    the cement wharf, dry landing with old car tires as fenders.

    One uniformed cruise crew member gave me a hand with my empty shopping bag,
    my full trash bag & assisted me as I stepped up onto the red carpet. A
    manager (we guess) came over & told me that I was disturbing his operation.
    He asked us to move immediately. Telling us we must go ashore over there, in
    the mud (wet landing). I told him, with no hesitation whatsoever: \”We have
    been living here a month. It is YOUR Operation that is inconvenient to us.\”
    I did not turn around but heard him aghast \”Well, excuse me!\” Indeed! I did
    NOT excuse him & was royally pissed that a fancy pants cruise ship can come
    in & take over a place like they own it with no regard of sharing the only
    public dock. The irritating little man did not dare say a word to 6 foot 4
    inch tall Scott as he secured our dinghy in the \”forbidden\” area & followed
    behind me. Yes sometimes size matters.

    BOOTY DU JOUR: The market that has ALWAYS had plenty of refrigerated eggs
    has none today. Oh well. I have 2 dozen in the fridge & 4 dozen free range,
    never refrigerated eggs that will keep fine up to a month. I must turn each
    egg upside down every day. Somehow this helps preserve them. As we eat up
    the cold ones & have more space, I will add one dozen to the fridge at a
    time.

    I bought more apples, cucumbers & paper towels. A big bag of green tomatoes
    & some bell peppers. Only found lettuce once during our entire stay. The
    real score was a liter of chocolate ice cream! I have not had ice cream in
    our freezer since the bars I bought in the Galapagos. Usually it is just too
    far from the market to our freezer to risk it becoming a melty mess.

    ADVENTURES IN ANCHORING, again!

    The high tide to exit the very shallow pass of Aitutaki was at 1:35 p.m.
    Every inch of water under the boat matters. We were anchored in the flat
    calm marina with 4 other boats, a bit cozy depending on which way the wind
    was blowing. One was a local fishing boat on a mooring very near shore. The
    other cruising boats were all anchored bow & stern, including us. Marcus &
    Tina crewing on the 56 foot catamaran \”Blue Callaloo\” were very likely over
    our bow anchor. Try to follow along as I describe the up-anchoring dance (no
    quiz at the end):

    Scott is on Beach House controlling our engines to move her forward & back.
    Plus operating both electric anchor windlasses with cabled remote controls.
    At first I am in our dinghy giving her a push on starboard (R side) because
    the wind (thankfully not strong) was pushing us to the right. Friend Peter
    of sailboat \”Quickstar\” came out in his dinghy to help & positioned himself
    toward the bow to be a bow thruster. With the 2 of us preventing Beach House
    from drifting sideways into the fishing boat or Bernard\’s little monohull,
    Scott was left to the deed of paying out bow chain, while picking up the
    stern. It was all working fine until the last moment when it was apparent
    that the stern anchor was stuck in the mud. He kept trying to drive it out
    every which way, but no luck. On to Plan B:

    I tie up our dinghy amidships & climb on board to help get Scott into scuba
    gear. He really wanted a trowel or shovel of some kind to take with him
    below to dig the anchor out. Gardening tools we don\’t have! I grab a sturdy
    metal file & toss it to him while he gets ready to descend. Later, I
    realized the crowbar would probably be the tool of choice. I get on the
    stern anchor controls. Peter suggests I keep trying to pull up the anchor.
    Scott had already tried every which way without success, but Scott (in the
    water with tank, but still on the surface) agrees. So I push the UP button &
    Voila – success!

    I quickly help wet & salty Scott climb back onboard & get out of his scuba
    gear. Sometimes you just have to \”threaten\” an anchor & then they behave. We
    then go to our stations for upping the bow anchor. Me at the helm, Scott on
    the bow rinsing & \”un-castle-ing\” the chain in the locker. Un-castle-ing
    means tossing the stack of chain that piles up, spreading it out more. If we
    don\’t do this, the mound of chain will rise right up to the windlass & there
    is nowhere for the chain to go, it just gets backed up & the windlass stops
    working. This is a BLUE job because it is wet, dirty and his longer arms
    work better to reach down into the chain locker for de-castle-ing. And
    especially now with my R hand gimpy, I am better able to drive the boat than
    handle the chain.

    Marcus, Captain of Blue Callaloo is now using his dinghy to push his own
    catamaran sideways out of our way, so we can retrieve our bow anchor which
    is under their boat. They arrived 2 weeks after us & with the limited space
    in the marina, had to anchor over our bow. We expected some maneuvers with
    that boat when we departed. Because of the wind angle, he is positioned on
    the R side, pushing Blue Callaloo. to the left Peter is playing tugboat to
    Beach House as needed. I am at the helm & Scott is on the bow upping that
    anchor. We leave both anchors submerged just below the waterline because
    their scoops are filled with mud. Driving around a bit with them wet, causes
    the mud to wash off.

    Once I am free to move, I proceed to maneuver where I know there is a safe
    depth & I can turn Beach House nose to the wind. Scott had a different idea
    of what I should be doing & got quite beside himself when I did not \”follow
    orders\”, but used my own judgment. Let\’s just say it was one of our \”Italian
    Moments\”: Some yelling from him. Some cursing from me. But when it was all
    said & done we gave high fives & complimented each other on handling a
    tricky situation about as well as possible. It was not graceful, but we
    didn\’t hit another boat or run aground, so we are happy.

    I will make a separate post for the passage because I am getting long
    winded.

    Cindy & Scott

  • Giant Clam Photo Shoot #1…..

    Dear F&F,
    July 11, 2010
    Giant Clam Photo Shoot #1

    The day started with Scott re-cementing Natalie\’s loose crown. The procedure
    was painless & successful. The retired dentist has not lost his touch.
    During this time (about 8 a.m. local) we were able to glimpse a partial
    eclipse of the sun. Thin clouds helped veil the intensity of the \”crescent\”
    sun. It was viewed as a full eclipse from other locations.

    Solo French sailor Bernard managed to come into the harbor alone, but Scott
    helped him set his stern anchor from our dinghy. It is difficult to set two
    anchors on your own, plus he recently fractured a rib, so any effort with
    his arms or bending, etc is painful. He is now securely tucked between Na
    Maka & Beach House. A much preferred neighbor to the Swiss boat.

    We were keen to dive in the giant clam area on a Sunday as only 2
    Seventh-Day Adventists tour operators work. We hoped to avoid the crowds of
    snorkelers that cycle through on other days of the week. As we loaded the
    dinghy with our dive gear, we could hear the harmonious singing from the
    nearby churches.

    It is about a 30 minute dinghy ride from the marina where Beach House is
    anchored to the giant clam preserve. I drove outbound since it is into the
    wind & waves, making for a jarring ride for the person in front. Scott also
    helps me see the coral heads. It takes a lot of concentration to steer a
    safe path though the many shallow rocky coral patches.

    Once at the site, there was plenty of sand to set the anchor in without
    damage to the coral. We decided to bank on \”asking for forgiveness instead
    of permission\”. We don\’t know if scuba diving is forbidden. But we knew we
    could take plenty of photos and cause no harm. Scott took the wide angle
    lens first, which gives the best perspective of the size of these mollusks
    with me posing in my usual fashion. The entire area is at most only 15 feet
    deep so we knew our one tank of compressed air (each) would easily last for
    2 dives

    It is RARE that we ever change lenses \”in the field\” from the dinghy because
    Scott has to open the watertight housing which means there is a risk of
    water getting on the camera during the lens change. But due to the long
    bouncy ride, threading through coral fields, and the \”Sunday\” factor we
    decided to take both wide angle & close ups during one trip. After an hour
    dive with the wide angle, we surfaced and carefully dried the outside of the
    housing with towels we brought for this purpose. I tried to sit in a wind &
    sea spray blocking position holding a towel up for added protection. Scott
    swapped the camera lens and port, re-greased the ever important O-ring & we
    were now in close-up mode. Which means I can wear my nerdy beanie & stay
    warmer!

    I didn\’t torment Scott by showing him the teeny tiny pipe fish when he was
    using the wide angle lens, but was very glad I could find them again, since
    they were now appropriate sized subjects. We spent another hour barely
    swimming. Mostly kneeling in the sand to gaze (me) and shoot (Scott) the
    gorgeous details of the many clams. Besides the almost 3 foot wide ones,
    there are 1 foot sized clams that have a stunning blue/green edge on their
    mantle. The siphons are interesting & look like space ships. Some
    perspectives reveal an uncanny similarity to certain parts of the human
    female anatomy. You will see what I mean when you view the \”07-2010-Aitutaki
    UNDERWATER Photo Gallery\”.

    It was a very successful outing. Poor Scott was pretty cold, submerged more
    than 2 hours in only his 3 mm wetsuit. I was fine in my 6 mm. If the water
    continues to get colder as predicted, I will probably be switching to my dry
    suit. Especially when we do multiple dives, several days in a row, the
    effect of temporary hypothermia creeps in, primarily exhaustion. Sleeping
    better on the days we dive is a bonus we appreciate.

    When Scott uploaded the photos for our review, we are pleased with the
    results but quickly agree we must return to shoot one more time. He needs to
    take the super macro lens, the 105 mm, to really capture the detail, color &
    texture of these amazing clams. We don\’t seem to be rushing away from this
    island, so we will do it.

    Cindy & Scott

  • Aitutaki – Generator Success…..

    Dear F&F,

    July 9, 2010

    Aitutaki – Generator Success

    We got the long awaited generator parts 2 days ago, but surprise, surprise
    it was not as “plug & play” as Scott hoped or was told.

    Today he received a tech support email from Florida telling us how to
    re-program the digital brain (replacement part) of the generator. It worked!
    Happy days. Scott then noticed the raw water intake pump is leaking, but we
    have a spare, so that takes him only another hour to replace & we are in
    business. Tonight we will give it a good long run, but it seems that worry
    is solved. Very, very happy & relieved. I am not sure how it evolved, but
    Scott has taken to saying \”Namaste\” when he starts the generator which I
    find adorable & hilarious. Laughter is so great.

    Finger Update: I went to the hospital to see if a local might know anything
    about my lingering sore finger from a Crown of Thorns starfish prick. Two
    medical interns from Australia were very sweet & good listeners, but not
    that familiar. The guy said he saw one case & the patients’ leg from the
    knee down was swollen (from a prick in the foot) but after 1 week just the
    ankle & foot were swollen. He did not know the outcome.

    Dr. Koko, possibly Korean, was beckoned & heard my story & took a look. He
    suggested another course of antibiotics plus 4 days anti-inflammatories. He
    said nearly 4 weeks was slow healing & suspects that there is still a part
    of the thorn in my finger. We can\’t see anything, but because it is still so
    painful, swollen & tender my tissue is very likely reacting to this foreign
    body. It is too bad we did not know about the hot water plus vinegar soak
    immediately. We knew this for jellyfish stings & I had to use that treatment
    many times in Mexico & it worked great. C\’est la vie.

    Lucky me, such a \”sensitive\” girl having a strong reaction to this silly
    starfish. Ok, I was the one trying to murder it…so maybe it is my karma.
    At any rate, I began a different antibiotic today, Cipro, plus Aleve.

    Food: It is more hot & humid. I try to think of food that does not involve
    cooking, or minimal time with the stove on. I defrosted already cooked &
    peeled shrimp & made \”shrimp remoulade\”. I used 2 boiled eggs & ate mine
    over a bed of lettuce. Will offer Scott pasta and lettuce.

    VISITORS: About 4 pm we were just thinking about beginning happy hour when
    Bernard appears at our stern in his dinghy. Solo French guy with the broken
    rib. We give him wine & I make a treatment to his mid & upper back (just
    sitting in the cockpit) which is very tense from guarding his broken rib. We
    met him first contact at the last island when I was lonely & doing sunset
    yoga while Scott was on the radio Net. So Bernard & I have a nice rapport.

    Bernard is still onboard when Natalie pulls up in her dinghy with a tooth
    question. I call for the dentist. It is pretty funny, we haven\’t worked in
    all this time & suddenly we each have a \”patient\”. She has an implant crown
    that is a bit loose. He asks her to return tomorrow p.m. & he will do
    something (re-cement? not sure). Natalie & Bernard leave.

    Jerome arrives to tell us about his kite boarding day & ask Scott how it
    went with the generator. Scott is tired & hungry so goes inside & gets on
    the net & pours himself more wine. I am enjoying my parade of visitors so
    sit on the back chatting with Jerome for over half an hour. It is sunset. We
    talk about many things. I really love both Jerome & Natalie – good people.

    We notice the Swiss monohull between our 2 catamarans is trying to pull up
    his anchor & having trouble. Jerome is being beckoned home by Natalie to
    help with the family bath hour (they wash in the lagoon with just a small
    fresh water rinse after). Scott gets in our dinghy to see if he can help the
    poor old Swiss guy and his game but not overly able female companion. Their
    stern anchor is stuck in the mud. Scott tries to muscle it up for them from
    our dinghy – no luck. He instructs them what to do. They follow his
    instructions pretty well. He also uses the dinghy to fend them off from
    swinging in the wind & hitting us or Jerome\’s boat. It is getting dark. It
    is not smart to go out this shallow pass without good light and high tide.
    But they seem psyched to get underway. Eventually get both front & back
    anchors up & seem to be away.

    Five minutes later Scott sees that they have run aground in the pass! It is
    now 7:00 p.m., totally dark & Scott goes out in the dinghy trying to help
    them get free & going. My guess is that they will just anchor where they
    are, if there are no dangerously shallower areas. But perhaps they will get
    loose & continue tonight. Scott helped them get their stern anchor set and
    told them he will return just before the mornings high tide to help the get
    the boat off the sand bank and on their way. The next morning, Scott
    successfully helped get their nose aimed in the right direction and wiggled
    them off the sand bank. Happy ending after a night of leaning over while on
    the bottom; fortunately a calm evening.

    Tomorrow we booked ourselves as tourists on a highly recommended Lagoon
    Snorkeling Excursion, with “Teking Lagoon Tours”. They will pick us up at
    9:30 a.m. We will be with 8 other people. They provide some kind of lunch.
    We\’ll go to 5 motus (little islets) inside the reef. I\’ll hope for the best
    with my finger. I have been trying to keep it dry. I hope I can tolerate
    snorkeling. Got to figure out which of my various wetsuits to wear. The sun
    is hot & air humid, but the water is cooling steadily. Although if it is a
    shallow area it might not feel too cold. Hoping for a fun day. See the
    photo gallery 07-2010-Aitutaki TOPSIDE for our tour with “The King”….

    Cindy and Scott

  • Aitutaki – Fuel & Friends…..

    Dear F&F,

    July 5, 2010

    Aitutaki – Fuel & Friends

    When we returned the scooter we wanted to rent a car in order to schlep
    diesel in our 5 gallon jugs, since the station is not at the water front.
    That company did not have any cars available. We called the 2nd company on
    the island, yes, he had one. So we kept the scooter long enough to zoom up
    there, about 15 minutes, by the airstrip. Scott dropped me off while I paid
    & showed him my license. It was a very tiny, convertible Nissan, not really
    sporty. It really looked like a toy & was pretty well worn. But the roof
    up/down feature worked, so I enjoyed the fresh air. It wasn\’t that weird to
    be sitting in the \”wrong\” seat, since I had to drive on the \”wrong\” side of
    the road. This was my first time driving a car on the left, so to make sure
    I didn\’t space out & mess up I just kept repeating: Stay on the left. Stay
    on the Left. STAY ON THE LEFT!

    After returning the scooter, Scott walked to the Air Rarotonga open air
    office & paid the worker the transit fee which is estimated at $20 NZ.
    Pitonga knows ALL about us & our precious package en route via DHL as we
    have made many stops by her office asking questions to learn how things work
    around here. She seems to have a friendly working relation with Willie who
    is at the Raratonga office & will be receiving the package from DHL &
    putting it on one of the many planes from Rarotonga to Aitutaki.

    It was afternoon & we saw a freshly re-opened restaurant that looked worth a
    try. Outside plastic tables & chairs set on a base of old coral. Quaint
    idea, but very rickety for sitting, scooting in or out, leaning elbows on
    the table & even walking required caution. There were garden cloth shades
    strung between trees to provide a bit of shade. We chatted with a family of
    NZ tourists & as we were finishing the burger & fries we split, up walks
    Dale & Jo from the monohull anchored outside the reef (x 6 weeks). They are
    getting ready to move on, hopefully tomorrow, after a part is drilled out by
    someone they met with the equipment to do the job. We got their contact
    info. They grow a fruit wine in NZ. Their farm is on the North Island,
    halfway between Whangerei & Auckland. They are not savvy sailors, but
    self-taught, learning on the job & seem to be enjoying themselves immensely..
    I am always in awe of these happy-go-lucky innocents.

    Fed & watered, we parked the car, dinghied the short distance to “Beach
    House”, loaded our empty 8 x 5 gallon jugs, ferried them to the wharf,
    loaded them into the car. First we had carefully covered the upholstery in
    plastic tarp to prevent any drips from causing an odor. It worked great. The
    trunk was too tiny to fit even 1 can vertically. It is a zippitty-do-dah
    drive to the fuel station, where we have become friendly with Bonnie. Her
    mini-mart has good prices on box milk & wine plus rare finds of lettuce &
    apples. I drove & Scott walked the short but circuitous route. The area
    where they dock & use the big cranes to maneuver containers off the barge is
    roped Off Limits. Bonnie was very helpful & patient as we filled each
    container with 22 liters, loaded the car & returned to the boat. Scott did
    the heavy lifting, but I put on rubber gloves to help with the air vent caps
    & setting up the spouts. Our digital starboard tank gauge is still not
    reading correctly due to algae and water in the tank. Anyway, when diesel
    started spilling out the top, we knew it was full! We filtered all we took &
    went back for another load in order to have full tanks onboard. We paid $7
    to 8$ per gallon which is a record all time high. We have to run one engine
    or the other 1-2x/day, depending on how much solar we get. When overcast, we
    get less solar power so need to run the engines longer to charge the
    batteries. Can’t wait to get the generator fixed.

    Once showered & rested a bit from the fuel schlep chore, I began to cook.
    Natalie had invited us over, and we MUST go to their boat to socialize
    because our boat is not childproof. But I told her I would bring the main
    meal. We set a time of 6:30 pm. Jerome had his 3rd day of kite boarding
    lessons off a motu in waist deep, sandy water. We talked to him after lesson
    #1 which was all beach practice with a small kite & we were eager to hear
    how he was progressing. We shuttled 3 pots & 1 bottle of wine. Hot white
    rice, green beans & chicken madiera with mushrooms was my choice of menu.
    Scott was my hero & did all the dishes.

    Even though we arrived fashionably 20 minutes late, it was apparent they
    were behind schedule. The twins were not yet fed and sitting in the cockpit
    in booster seats like hungry birds in a nest. She handed them each a whole
    tomato & I have to say it was interesting to watch them both devour it with
    enthusiasm. I don\’t think you would see many American 4 year olds go for a
    plain full size tomato. Their 2nd course was popcorn. As it neared 8 p.m.
    Scott & Jerome both dig into the treat with gusto. Natalee brings out
    pistachios as an additional adult appetizer. They had been given a bottle of
    Dale & Jo\’s sparkling fruit wine. I have never heard of this fruit & cannot
    remember the name. She said it was something similar to guava. I didn\’t care
    for it & patiently waited until the other 3 polished it off & Jerome opened
    the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc I had brought. My food had got cold & my
    wine warm but eventually I kicked Scott hard under the table to stop talking
    story so Natalee could focus on the situation: she needed to remove the
    twins from the dinner table so we adults could proceed with our meal. Ten
    year old Leo gave each Scott & I the classic cheek-cheek French greeting &
    asked for some of my chicken & rice. It got high praise from the 10 year
    old. He is shy about speaking English to us, but with his mother\’s prompting
    he managed: I like it.

    She disappeared for 10 minutes & we ate the lukewarm food & wine without
    complaint (Does she even own a microwave…? Possibly not!) As the wine
    flowed, so did the stories. Jerome recounted with full French flourish his
    battle with the wind & kite, getting dragged under water, having to find his
    board over & over yet the thrill of the moment he was flying. Very sore in
    the forearms, he thought he might take the next day off. My \”time to go
    home\” watch alarm sounded only 20 minutes after we started eating. I
    squelched it & we stayed another hour. We confessed that we think Natalee is
    a saint for not drowning the twins, and she admitted that Leo is more
    challenging for her. Jerome says she was born with a \”valium drip\” which
    gave us a big laugh. We are unlikely friends, with only the same boat home
    in common, but enjoy hours of stimulating & enjoyable conversation. I had a
    warm feeling toward the twins when she told me they call us Scott & \”Wendy\”
    (from Peter Pan). I have to ask if this is just a pronunciation challenge,
    or because of watching me ride the manta ray on DVD.

    Scott falls asleep almost immediately. I stay up reading Julia Child\’s Life
    in France for an hour, lovely.

    Cindy & Scott

  • Aitutaki – Day #6…..

    Dear F&F,

    July 1, 2010

    Aitutaki – Day #6

    It is overcast & has drizzled off & on. We left dive master Onu a message at
    7:30 a.m. (he didn\’t pick up either cell or biz line) that we were not
    interested in diving in the rain or at similar/same mediocre sites. He
    called us back at 8 a.m. very understanding. He had four other customers, so
    it would have been a bit crowded on the boat anyway. The Americans onboard
    gave me the thumbs down sign when they returned. Poor Onu got stung by a
    small jellyfish in the eye (he has a habit of flooding & clearing his mask
    underwater – it must fog up). Hopefully he will be fine. But between that &
    the poor visibility with the gray sky, they scrapped the 2nd dive so we
    didn\’t miss out on anything.

    Unlike sometimes, I was quite pleased to have a \”home day\”. The fridge is
    acting up. Scott got an email reply from a tech support guy on what
    tests/troubleshooting we need to do. It\’s a different problem than we had
    before & overall it IS functioning, but seems to think it has low voltage,
    even when we\’ve just charged the batteries, so that is a mystery we need to
    research.

    First job though was changing the water maker filters. We are so shallow,
    anchored only about 5-6 feet deep in the lagoon, that we suck up a lot of
    sand & yuck in the intake. So instead of needing to clean the filters every
    2 weeks, we need to do it every 2-3 days to keep the water quality good. No
    big deal, about an hour job, pink/blue teamwork.

    About 11 a.m. we heard someone hail us from ashore. It was the couple we saw
    yesterday when we walked to the fancy hotel, Sonia & Tom. They were on a
    (nice hotel owned) moped, came to bring us a book she finished reading that
    both Scott & I are interested in & had heard of. It is called: \”I am Nujood,
    Age 10 and Divorced\”. A true story of a girl from Yemen. We dinghied ashore
    to pick them up since they were interested in seeing our boat. We talked
    story & gave them a tour for about 1 1/2 hr. I was getting hungry for lunch
    & knew they wanted to explore the whole island & had a 3:30 p.m. flight out,
    so Scott ferried them back as I prepared our lunch. He also took our empty
    propane tank to the nearby fuel station. They said they can fill it
    \”sometime\”. I have a 2nd one & they last a really long time, no rush.

    After lunch we noticed the wind shifted & “Beach House” was lying at an odd
    angle to “Na Maka”, our sister ship. We are close to each other, both
    anchored bow (front) & stern (back) usually we move in tandem & no problem.
    We did not have many feet of chain (much scope) out on our stern anchor,
    since the prevailing wind blows from the bow, meaning all the load is on the
    front hook. So our stern anchor had dragged when the wind shifted with the
    load on the stern. There was no panic, but we did need to react, never
    knowing how hard & fast the wind will ramp up. We forgot where we had stowed
    the critical gizmo to keep the stern chain centered when we take it up or
    down. It took almost half an hour of searching through multiple lockers to
    find it. The wind had ramped up by then, so I volunteered for tugboat duty.
    Hopped in the dinghy & placed the bow of the dinghy at the turning point of
    the big boat to push her into the desired position. We learned this
    technique during one crazy weekend at Big Geiger Cove in Catalina & it has
    paid off. Scott with long cable remotes, could handle both the bow & stern
    anchor chain, taking up one & paying out the other, while I pushed us
    sideways. It is a bit stressful, but exciting because I knew I could do the
    job required of me & that it is a very important & critical job to do right..
    No time to be a Ninny! Maneuvers took about 45 minutes. High fives to each
    other, followed by an iced coffee.

    My sister asked this question: \”Since the diving doesn\’t seem to be very
    good, why don’t you just zip to the next island?\”

    A) We hope there ARE better dive sites & we just need to wait until the
    weather is such that we can get to them.

    B) Our next 2 islands do not have airports. Mike shipped our generator parts
    (plus a couple other needed items) via DHL out of L.A. today.

    No generator parts = no scuba compressor = can\’t fill tanks = no diving. No
    dive operators at next 2 islands, very primitive, undeveloped. Here, we are
    lucky that we can dive with 2 different operators, so it doesn\’t cramp our
    style to have the generator on the blink. It is NOT as efficient to charge
    the batteries with our main engines, but do-able. We are not getting much
    solar due to cloudy skies. We absolutely want to be able to dive, so need to
    be able to pump our own tanks at the next 2 islands.

    We went to shore again later today & I scored locally grown lettuce, as well
    as cold stored NZ apples (where were they hiding them before now?), some
    onions, 2 dozen more eggs & 2 liters more shelf life milk. I suppose I could
    force myself to get used to powdered only, but if I don\’t HAVE to, I really
    prefer the taste of the low fat boxed milk, to the whole powdered. It is so
    nice to be able to bring trash to shore. We had to stow it for 2 weeks at
    the last atoll.

    I had thawed out a chunk of several boneless/skinless chicken breasts, found
    an eggplant at a market yesterday so got inspired to cook Szechuan eggplant,
    this time with Kung Pao chicken (in the past I\’ve always served it with
    shrimp), plus pressure cooked brown rice. I didn\’t have fresh ginger, but
    bought a jar of \”prepared\” grated ginger that smelled awful to me, but I
    used a tiny amount & it was fine. Scott loved it all so much he didn\’t mind
    the pile of dishes I created. Best part is 3 more meals leftover! I froze
    one & put 2 containers in the fridge. We don\’t mind eating the same thing
    for a couple days in a row.

    Just when we sat down to eat it poured buckets & we had to scurry to close
    all the hatches to keep the inside of the boat from getting drenched. It was
    very funny because Scott had just said: \”You are a better cook than my Mom.\”
    We had a good laugh that Suzanne was NOT pleased with that comment so caused
    it to rain upon our dinner!!! Tropical rain often lasts only 15 minutes.
    Sure enough we were able to open up & are now enjoying a nice breeze and 79
    degrees.

    The weather will probably not be dive friendly again tomorrow. We are quite
    content to use our time here to catch up on repairs, maintenance, writing,
    reading, etc. We still want to rent a car & explore the entire island. We
    may also go on a Lagoon Excursion. Jerome & family dinghied on their own
    yesterday to a little motu (Honeymoon Island) & had a lovely day. The island
    is 6 x 1 miles. The lagoon (inside of the fringing coral reef) is about 10
    miles x 8 miles. So compared to the last few places we\’ve been, this is
    larger, so more sightseeing can be done. It is amazing how much vegetation
    has sprung back since the February hurricane. There are flowers blooming &
    green vegetation amidst the collapsed buildings. Nature can both destroy &
    rebuild.

    Cindy & Scott