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What a difference a day makes!…..

19 October 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

We\’re just completing our second day at sea and surprisingly, we\’ll do around 170+ miles. I say surprisingly, because yesterday we had at least a one knot \”counter current\”. This is a phenomenon where the counter clockwise circulation of the Southern Hemisphere meets the clockwise circulation of the Northern Hemisphere. Intuitively, you would be led to believe that this should become synergistic and complement the prevailing west bound current.

But…you\’d be only partially correct. The world spins in mysterious ways and as such, there is a counter current which flows in the opposite direction. This is true in all the world\’s major oceans. We certainly found a branch of it yesterday as we were going almost a knot faster through the water than we were \”over the ground\” per our GPS. The seas certainly acted like it as well giving us a much more uncomfortable sea state than we would have expected for the approximately 15 knots of wind we had most of yesterday. We seem to be south of the counter current now as our speed over the ground is faster than our speed through the water AND the sea state is half what it was yesterday. The ride has become downright comfortable.

Our strategy is to maintain a southwesterly heading for about another day. This will get us close to the latitude of the top of Madagascar, around the Mascarene Banks (of very shallow water – we don\’t want to go over it as it could create steep waves) and keep us further south of the HRA…just in case! There is an island group called the Angalega\’s which looks to be uninhabited, but could be a safe haven for boats trying to \”hang around\” if you know what I mean. Hence, we\’ll stay roughly 100 miles to the south; remaining a needle in a haystack!

We move our clocks today to +5 UTC (We\’re now 5 hours ahead of England, 10 hours ahead of the US East Coast and 13 ahead of the US West Coast). We\’re almost at the half way point to being around the world from Los Angeles where this voyage began.

Lots of squalls last night, but more threatening looking than anything nasty. We flew the main with one reef and full genoa all night. Nikki gets to sleep in an extra hour with the clock change, so Captain and Crew are both happy this morning with the much more comfortable conditions.

We just cracked the \”1100 miles to go\” number on our log and it\’s official, we\’ve done 173 nm the last 24 hours. Love to hear from you,

KIT, Scott and off watch Nikki

Photographs and Memories…..

18 October 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

We left Peros Banhos yesterday around 10:30 a.m. and had a slow but lovely sail all day. Just after mid-night (why is it always mid-night?…:-)) the wind came up a bit too strong for our sail plan and we changed the reacher out for the staysail with the full main sail. We\’ve been doing 6.5-8.5 knots and are staying as south as we can. There are a few reasons we\’re staying south. First, the prevailing wind will eventually shift a bit more south putting the wind and sea uncomfortably on our beam. Second, there is a very large shoal area at about the half way point and we want to go south of it to stay out of any big/unusual wave patterns. Next, it keeps us further south of the (HRA), military speak for \”high risk area\” which is north of 10 degrees south as we approach Madagascar. We\’ll be around 12 degrees south when we get there. Lastly, as we get closer to Madagascar, the winds will shift even further south and we want to keep them on our stern.

As to the bad guys, the first big cyclone (hurricane) of the season has blown ahead of us on our path and is likely to send anyone away from the area we\’re intending to go. \”Anais\” was the strongest \”early\” cyclone ever recorded in the West Indian Ocean at Cat 3, it had winds of 115 knots. Not something to be near! The weather forecast for the next 5 days looks good, with building trades for a day starting tonight or tomorrow, then backing off a bit. The good news is that there appears to be no repeat scenario for \”Anais\” setting up as it cleared all the instability out of this area for awhile.

The usual small squalls on the horizon, nothing out of the ordinary….

We enjoyed our time at Salomon and Peros Banhos and \”Took only photographs and memories, left only foot prints\”….. Except for the yet still amazing amount of floating plastic and \”flip flops\”, it was much like 1000 years ago.

KIT! Scott and Sleeping Nikki

Peros Banhos…..

17 October 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

Well, we tried to leave Salomon yesterday and we did! However, there was virtually NO wind and as we were going right by Peros Banhos Atoll, so we stopped for the night. We anchored off the old pier (which is defunct); it no longer connects to the shore. The jungle here is really thick as well. Though people lived here some 50 years ago, it doesn\’t appear that there is any infrastructure here of any kind (other than the pier). Now that it\’s low tide, we can see that there are remnants awash of it\’s pilings that do indeed extend to the shore. If there are any buildings, they have long ago become part of the jungle.

As the wind has come up over night to a much more encouraging for our departure. It\’s up to 9 knots, we\’ll be off shortly.

Our general plan will be to head more south initially, just staying to the west of the Great Chagos Bank. This will get us back down into the \”trade winds\” and then as they strengthen, we\’ll head more westerly to keep them and any building seas on our stern or quarter. The \”day trip\” from yesterday gave us a bit of re-adjustment to our sea legs as well.

We\’ll be in either radio contact or email contact with \”Sunflower\” as we head toward Madagascar and of course be sending \”the daily blog\” to all of you. Don\’t forget to look for those position reports (links at the bottom right of the home page).

So, by the time most of your read this, we\’ll be off!…

KIT, Scott and Anxious Nikki

Island Hike, Last nights super squall…..

14 October 2012

Dear F&F,

As we are still waiting on our weather window, Nikki and I decided today to take a hike and see Ile Bodham. The island is about 1 1/2 miles long and a little over a quarter mile wide. We first went to find the old Cathedral which was built in 1936. Very broken down, no roof and the jungle has taken over much of it like the rest of the island.

We then got a notion to go to the windward side of the island and followed the track. To say the least, it was pure jungle. Coconut trees packed in so dense, you couldn\’t see light out of the forest. Rotting coconuts everywhere with the obligatory very large coconut crabs…everywhere. Lots of spiders too. Nikki got bit! When we finally got to the sea shore on the other side, it was again (and I never get over this), a shock to see plastic refuse everywhere. Dozens of old flip flop sandals, plastic bottles, plastic fishing floats. The state of our Earth at this time in history I suppose.

So, we then started back. Looking at where we had come from was immediately a challenge. In other words, we couldn\’t see where we\’d come from. We crisscrossed whatever tracks we could find until they just stopped. Then crisscrossed through the bush…literally. We finally were in between two bogs of stagnant water and the mosquitos where everywhere. We didn\’t get bit too badly as we\’d 40% \”Deeted\” up before we left. Eventually we came to the ocean again and tried to either walk in the surf line or when we couldn\’t, parallel the track as best we could. For the most part….we couldn\’t and were back to clambering thorough the bush. Eventually, we made it to the inner lagoon and for the most part, walked back along the shore in knee to chest high water. We had a few almost encounters with several sting rays, but I saw them in time and shooed them away with a stick. Pretty big guys too, about 2 1/2 feet across. Eventually we made it back to the wharf, walking about 4 kilometers through mostly bush! We felt pretty tired and came back to the boat for a lovely shower in the cool water. It was interesting, but I wouldn\’t do it again! (Neither would Nikki!).

Last night, we got a squall that started out with a downpour and 30 knots of wind. Eventually we saw some gusts to 42 knots! This was a band of convection associated with what is now severe tropical storm Anais; the first of the West Indian Ocean season. The good news is, that after a few hours of sustained winds and rain in the mid 20++ knot range, things calmed down. Today, it\’s been almost windlass and very warm. It\’s actually been the nicest day since we\’ve been here, but it is HOT (90 deg F) or 32.2 deg C.

If all looks good re: \”Anais\” and the weather gives us some wind, we\’ll leave tomorrow with a SSW heading to get down into the nice easy trade winds predicted about 250 miles south of us. From there, we\’ll head more west, staying at least 600 miles behind \”Anais\” as it breaks up in a few days and curves to the south toward Mauritius. We should have a nice run from there with the trades around 18-22 knots taking us right into northern Madagascar. This is \”the plan\”, but the weather gods have been known to be a challenge.

We\’ll write once we\’re off from Saloman. Stay tuned,

KIT, Scott and Nikki

Island Tour and Weather Watch!…..

11 October 2012

Dear F&F,

Yesterday, Nikki and I along with Dave & Kathy of \”Sunflower\” took a \”tour de lagoon\”! We went over to Ile Foquet and it\’s neighbor \”motu\”, Ile Yakamaya.

On the north tip of Ile Foquet is the wreck of \”Black Rose\”. She was a French Cat that we think (if memory serves), was on a delivery from Vanuatu and lost is a severe squall. She was clearly anchored for south east wind protection, but at Ile Foquet, if the wind comes out of the north with strength, you\’re in trouble and quickly. The entry pass is directly in line with the anchorage there and you are effectively open to the outside sea. We took lots of photos….one day!…:-) Also, off the north end of Ile Yakamaya, a similar fate happened to the \”Ferro Cement\” wreck. We think this one is a bit older, but similar circumstances were at play. Here on the far west side of Ile Boddam (where we are tied on to a mooring which I\’ve checked), the overall comfort of the anchorage has been very good.

We also went to Ile Mapou which has more birds than any of the islands as it is the only \”rat free\” island of the nine islands here at Salomon. Lots of boobies, frigates and terns. We then motored past Ile de Passe, Ile Anglaise and back to our home base at Ile Boddam. Noting along the way, the condition of the coral is very nice. Unfortunately, we also find here the ubiquitous flip flops, plastic bottles, fishing floats, etc.

A highlight at Ile Mapou was watching a small eel come out of the water and swallow a small crab in it\’s entirety. It then attacked a large crab, tearing off one of it\’s claws! A few moments later, it slithered back into the tide pool from which it emerged. Nature is fascinating, but can be quite brutal.

At night we get more rain and squall, but nothing over 20 knots. It gets hotter and sunnier during the day with occasional rain squalls. The water is 84 degrees F or 28.9 C. It feels like a warm bath and is much of the reason the unsettled ITCZ weather is hanging around us.

Speaking of which! The weather information says that the month of October gets a tropical storm every other year in the western Indian Ocean and a tropical cyclone every four years. Well, the first tropical storm will form about 200 miles to our southwest tomorrow and increase in strength as it moves west (away from us) for at least two days. The good news is that first, it\’s ahead of us and will be moving away. The not as good news is that we\’ll have to wait another 1-3 days to leave here. Then more good news, we should have a reasonable northerly to get us south AND the trade winds will be down in force. Next, the wind will be more from the east than the south for at least a few days which will give us a more comfortable sailing angle toward Madagascar. Lastly, the system will have died off at is moves west and we\’ll be in lighter and reasonable conditions behind it. The key is to get to Madagascar before the next possible system develops which shouldn\’t (emphasis added with a ? mark!) be an issue.

So for now, we\’re just stuck in paradise. Somehow, we\’ll manage.

KIT, situations are dynamic! Scott and \”Plotting\” Nikki, the \”Celestial Navigatrix\”…..:-)

Salomon Atoll, Chagos…..

08 October 2012

Dear F&F,

We\’ll we\’re now on our fourth day here at Salomon. Two days ago, we went for a walk an what a wild \”put together\” scene exists on the beach. There is an old stone jetty (very small) that was here when people lived here 50 years ago. The British moved them all to Mauritius back then.

Some stone building structures, the ubiquitous plastic junk, dozens of \”flip flops\” collected by the cruisers over the years in an art work display. A volleyball net, rats, mosquitos, coconuts and their crabs. Doesn\’t paradise sound incredible?…:-)

Actually, this atoll is much like the world of thousands of years ago. Many more fish and healthy coral than lots of places.

The \”BIOT\” agent (British Indian Ocean Territory) came by two days ago to check up on us. His main job is to watch for illegal fishing. He takes this pristine environment very seriously. All the small islets here (except one!) have rats. This is the norm, by the way. The old sailing ships and future cargo ships introduced them. No predators, lots of food (coconuts and bird eggs) and they\’re everywhere. In Cocos, they are getting rid of them, here, not yet. The one island without them has much bigger bird populations as the eggs are unmolested.

The weather has been rainy/squally, but not too bad. Overcast is the norm right now.

Yesterday, I dove the boat, checked the mooring and did a bit of maintenance on it. I changed the zinc anodes underwater on the props, sail drives and the refrigeration/freezer system. Then re-greased our high tech propellers, cleaned them, did some bottom cleaning, etc. The \”bump\” on the reef in Benoa, Bali left some scrapes, but nothing that epoxy, time and paint won\’t fix. We had a no wind time yesterday and quickly pulled the main up and I repaired it. The big water maker is being a bit of a problem. The spare is working fine! We got our \”winch buddy\” back in action (thank heavens, it is a girl\’s best friend!…:-)). The Winch Buddy is a right angle drill that has a special attachment which \”electrifies\” all our manual winches. This makes pulling up the dagger boards, trimming the sails and pulling up the dinghy a piece of cake. Without the \”buddy\”, I get quite a workout.

Still some more maintenance to do, but it\’s coming along. We hope to get some snorkeling in as soon as the weather gets a bit sunny which may? be today?

Dave and Kathy were intrigued by the celestial navigation stuff, so \”Professor Scott\” held class yesterday for a few hours. Perhaps more today? Dave wants me to help him with some sat phone connection to email stuff as well.

For now, all is well and I\’m looking at the 13th as the next jump off date where the weather seems to be shaping up for the next leg to Madagascar. This of course, will literally change by the day as we watch the weather develop.

KIT, Scott and Domestic Diva Nikki

Arrival at Chagos, 10 days at sea…..

05 October 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

Our last day at sea was in lovely light downwind conditions except for the odd swell coming from both the northwest and the east southeast. It felt like we were zooming up and down hills, shortly spaced together. We had an actually sunny day and no squalls.

We slowed last night to arrive here just after dawn. Around midnight last night (why, why, why is it always midnight?!) one last bombing squall came by and caught Nikki by surprise. We had full sail up and had to get it down in one of the heaviest rains I\’ve ever seen. The whole show was over in 15 minutes.

Last night around 2 a.m. local time, I got an email from Angela in South Carolina. When she finds out where we\’re going, she\’ll often \”google it\” and get me some nice information. She found a blog from another boat s/v \”Taglich\” that was here 4 months ago and had a nice GPS set of way points to enter here over the shallow pass. \”Taglish\” said they never saw less than 22 feet (7 meters). I used them and we never saw less than 22 feet either. Thanks Angela!

Debrief of stuff along the way: A small rip in the main developed yesterday. It actually doesn\’t require immediate repair, but I will do so if possible while here. The new furler line works, but is too thin and jams in the winch. I\’ll try and swap it out while we\’re here as well. Some generator/engine maintenance, hopefully I can unfreeze the chuck on our winch buddy (which electrifies any winch on the boat!). We lost the adapter for the winch that fits in the drill motor, but we\’re still good if I can fix the chuck as I have a spare adapter! The stove\’s problem was that a 24 volt to 12 volt converter went bad. Again, I had a spare, we\’re back to hot food. Only missed one meal that way. The washing machine repair seems to have worked, the machine is working as well as ever. We\’ve a leak in our large water maker. It works, but puts 30 liters of sea water in bilge which is a pain. The spare small water maker kept us in plenty of fresh water the whole way here.

It\’s raining cats and dogs right now, but not too windy. We may have to move over to the Ille Foquet when the southeast trades come back in a day or two for better protection than Ille Bodham gives. We are at Ille Bodham next to \”Sunflower\” now.

Dave and Kathie from Sunflower have been here for 18 days and may go the same route we will to Madagascar. They\’ll leave as soon as the weather cooperates. Thank you Dave and Kathie for helping us get set on the mooring. Dave even checked it underwater. IT IS NOW POURING! We\’ll go for \”pupu\’s and cocktails\” at 5:30.

Nikki is nuts and is running out in the rain in her swim suit!…:-) After all, \”I\’m English you know\”, said she!…:-) She wants to swim to shore. She just jumped in and forgot to put the ladder down. Now I\’m soaking wet from putting the ladder down. She just asked me (while she\’s already in the water) if there are any sharks here? I said, \”Yes, lots of black tips like all these reefs\”. She\’s now standing on the beach!…:-) It is POURING!

Okay, we\’ve put out the position report and updated our arrival. Nikki cooked a lovely breakfast and we\’ll be napping shortly…

About 1600 nautical miles, 10 days exactly. Welcome to possibly one of the most remote and unspoiled atolls left on planet earth… Salomon Atoll, Chagos Archipelago

KIT, Scott and Swimming Nikki…:-)