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  • Zihuatanejo…..

    Dear F&F,
    February 12, 2009

    Well if you had asked me if I thought we would spend 16 days on the dock at Ixtapa Marina when we first got there I would have thought you were crazy. But it is dawning on us that when we reach docks we do tend to stay longer than expected & get a lot of things done.

    And now that we are at the Zihuatanejo anchorage, 1 day & night feels like it will be plenty of time here.

    Benefits of the anchorage – free (vs about $65/night by the time you include the electricity & water charges).
    Negative of the anchorage – cruise ships come & go. They usually stay only 1 day /night but they bring a lot of baggage. Starting with the ugly giant cruise ship near the entrance of the anchorage. The many shuttle boats zooming to & from the dock (that only the cruise ship shuttle boats can use. Wet landing for us other boaters.) Jet skis tearing up the place. Parasailing boats freaking you out that they will slam their person up in the air into our mast!

    Motion of the ocean: how quickly I forget that I get seasick really easy sometimes. Easy to forget at the dock! But just this short little 6 mile trip from Ixtapa made me feel pretty lousy & I had to munch a Bonine & put on my patch. I am better now, but not perfect. I wonder if I will ever \”get over\” it? Or if it is just something I need to be more preventive about. It simply did not occur to me that I might not feel fine during a measly 6 mile trip.

    We anchored initially near 3 other catamarans. They were all \”bow & stern\” to keep their bow into the swell. We did not want to hassle with the stern anchor, well, because it is a hassle. And for just 1 night, not worth it if we can avoid it. So we picked up the anchor & moved over amongst the 30 or so other boats. The majority are leaners in the 40-something foot range. The anchorage is still what I would call \”rolly\” due to swell hitting us sideways.

    Photos we will post will show what has become of previously charming Zihuat. So much development. Just like every other coastal town in Mexico; over built. We went ashore in the dinghy. Nathaniel was there to take our 20 pesos & make sure our dinghy wasn\’t stolen. The cruise ship people were onshore which is sure to give it a more tourist town feel compared to when they are not here.

    Since it was after 5 pm, we sat at a beach palapa cafe & shared a burger with fries & chips with guacamole. So we are fed. Nice not to have to fuss with making dinner since I\’m still not feeling 100%. I do get hungry despite feeling a bit bleah. My seasick symptoms are mainly feeling very tired & headachy, more than stomach yucky. In only get that when conditions are really rough.

    Vendors selling every imaginable thing come up to your table: jewelry, sombreros, fabric sarongs/tablecloths, knick-knacks. You have to just ignore them or else you would run away screaming. Then the sell-a-song guys: one with a harp like thingy, one with guitar, a mandolin/accordion duo, on & on… Stand by your table, strum a few notes, see if you make eye contact then move on. Annoying as hell. We would happily have paid more for the food to avoid this routine, understand they are just trying to make a buck & that this is a prime time tourist trap. This season due to the US economy, tourism is down 40% in Mexico. The Mexicans are feeling it big time!

    On the dinghy ride back, we said hello to Monty on a small catamaran that sometimes joined us this summer as part of the multihull brigade. We also introduced ourselves to the boat my friend Sandy just left, \”Shanghai\”. We also said hi to Chuck\’s brother & sis-in-law of \”Sun Baby\”, who were near the 1st spot we anchored.

    So here we are, finally at Zihuatanejo. I hope to get my sea head after a night\’s sleep & the patch will have time to kick in. Tomorrow we will continue. We are only going about the distance of Marina del Rey to Avalon, to Papanoa. This stop is for the sole purpose of making the next leg to Acaplulco a day time trip, not an overnight. The sailing guidebooks do not say much about it other than it is a safe anchorage.

    Scott & Cindy
    ————————————————-
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  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/02/12 20:22
    LATITUDE: 17-37.80N
    LONGITUDE: 101-32.96W
    MARINE: NO
    WIND_SPEED: 15
    WIND_DIR: 013T
    CLOUDS: 0%
    VISIBILITY: 25
    BARO: 1013.9
    AIR_TEMP: 30.0C
    COMMENT: Beach House – ANCHORED – Playa La Ropa, Zihuatanejo Bay (Papanoa Tomorrow)

  • Boat Projects & Friends at Ixtapa Marina…..

    Dear F&F,
    February 7-11, 2009

    Sailor friend Sandy took the bus from Zihuatenejo anchorage and was a big help writing the inventory as I stowed my pantry. All older canned goods are taken out, the new put deeper and the oldest kept most accessible. I label & date the tops of cans so I can quickly see what I am grabbing. The guest cabin still needs some work before we are \”guest ready\” but we have time before Carmina comes to fetch us from El Salvador.

    Scott has been working long & hard every day to install all the equipment I brought from LA. I am especially enjoying the newly installed shower sump that happily gulps away the water & helps keep our bilges dry. We still need to re-caulk the shower floor which leaks out beyond the shower. It never ends�

    While Sandy & I worked inside, Scott installed the port side of the new trampoline. I tried to talk him out of doing it in the heat of the day, but he was driven. The installing of the new went fine. It was the cutting away of the old that was a pain. I will help him do the final tightening of the new & that side will be done. He will cut the old out first on the starboard side & I will help him with the new installation. He was (justifiably) afraid of falling in the hole if the old was gone. But after having done the port, he feels that is the better was to go. I think only 1 or 2 hacksaw blades fell overboard….

    Scott arranged for in interior housekeeper to help me clean. We have not kept up to Eva\’s standards, so I was glad to have Deanna help me with the ceiling vinyl, walls, floors, counters, windows, wipe down, vacuum the saloon cushions, etc, etc. Big job, but necessary to be in ship shape. We worked side by side for 6 hours. It is good to have a clean \”Beach House\”.

    One night we were invited for happy hour aboard a very big fancy power boat, \”Quan Yin\”, down the dock. A super nice couple (Rob & Tami) are the Captain & Cook. Plus 1 other crew as deck hand. We brought along another power boat couple (Linda & John) that we had met last year. I brought pizza from the internet place. Linda brought homemade cookies. Tami put out delicious guacamole & chips. Rob poured wine – a good time was had by all. Tami is from Dallas & a live-wire. Very fun. She & Rob shared good info on Costa Rica, including a referral to a guide for seeing the rainforests and a mechanic that may be able to help solve our auto pilot mysteries.

    Tami invited me along to the mercado with her. Yippee! Another shopping opportunity. We walked a bit then waved down a cab. I had to make a quick stop at an ATM to get pesos, then on to the mercado. Imagine a Mexican version of the old Fairfax farmers market. The dead animals hanging in the meat market were a bit disconcerting. But the fruits & veggies were great. I bought asparagus, brussel sprouts, broccoli, zucchini, jicama, avocados, tomatoes, 3 colors of bell peppers, cucumber, mangos, apples, pears, peaches, plums, tangerines, bananas & one of those enormous papayas. Produce Heaven! We then went back to the supermarket where I picked a few things I\’d forgotten on Saturday: baby wipes (quick & easy clean/wipe up), more tortillas, more cheese, bay leaves, more rib eye steaks. A pint of coffee Haagen Dazs! So once again – we won\’t starve! It was very fun going marketing with a girlfriend.

    Scott had the starboard side trampoline installed by the time I returned from the market. It just needs to be tightened in a day or 2, then the lines trimmed & dressed. His hands are full of blisters & joints aching from the strain of pulling the lines tight all the way around. It was a huge job & he is happy to have it mostly behind him.

    We are doing some paperwork inside with the air conditioning on. It is such a nice relief from the heat in the mid afternoon. A big benefit of dock power. Overnight it cools down to a pleasant 68 so we can sleep without the AC. Unless one of the nearby boats are having a late party, in which case you can only sleep with the windows closed & fans on. Some neighboring boats are so rude about cranking up the music until all hours at night. But as we all know, excessive drinking can make a jerk out of many people. But overall. we have enjoyed our time here at Ixtapa Marina.

    We plan to move on down to the Z-Town anchorage (only 6 miles) on Thursday, February 12. We will probably stay 1-2 nights then mosey on down toward Acapulco.

    Scott & Cindy
    ————————————————-
    Do not push the \”reply\” button to respond to this
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    to: \”Scott & Cindy Stolnitz (s/v Beach House)\”
    If you DO use your reply button, be sure to delete
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    Replies should not contain attachments and should be
    less than 5 kBytes (2 text pages) in length.

    This email was delivered by an HF private coast station
    in the Maritime Mobile Radio Service, operated by the
    SailMail Association, a non-profit association of yacht
    owners. For more information on this service or on the
    SailMail Association, please see the web site at:

    SailMail Association

  • Ixtapa Marina & Cindy\’s Shopping Trip…..

    Dear F&F,
    January 26 – February 6, 2009

    A couple of months ago we had emailed Ixtapa Marina (just 6 miles from Zihuatenejo) requesting a slip reservation. The harbormaster told us they would not have room. Knowing that things can change, Scott decided to hail them while we were getting diesel at the Ixtapa fuel dock. Lo & behold, they had lots of slips available & we are happy to take one. It is so much easier to do boat projects, get cleaned up, schlep groceries onboard etc. from a dock than when at anchor. So Zihuatenejo will just have to wait.

    Boat washers descended upon us right there at the fuel dock & we signed up with one for the next morning. Always good to get the salt off after a long stretch at sea. There are many big, beautiful power boats in the marina. Mostly with crew, instead of owners, onboard. The owners of that type of boat just fly in once in a while. The hired captain & crew maintain the boat & move it to wherever the owner would like to visit it next.

    It is a 15 minute walk to a small boat supply store, liquor store & row of outdoor cafes. We become \”regulars\” at Z-Pizza because they have free WiFi if you eat or drink something. We buy an internet access card from the supply store, but it only works (sometimes) on 1 laptop from the boat, with a very weak signal. Not good enough for our Skype internet telephone.

    Our boat shopping list was growing long & it became apparent that it would be better to get some critical items sooner rather than later. The most substantial items being 2 autopilot parts, our new trampoline, shower sump pump and generator spare parts. Internet research showed that Alaska has nonstop flights daily to LAX from Ixtapa-Zihuatenejo airport. Knowing we are on a bit of a time clock to get down the coast to Central America, I did not delay booking my flight to LA for January 29.

    As soon as the flight attendant announced we were allowed to turn on cell phones my job began. The first 2 messages were from Don at M & B wetsuits. He discovered that my measurements from 10 years ago were not in the Stolnitz file, he only found Scott\’s. I got great use out of the custom 5 mm wetsuit he made me, but am due for a new one & opted to get the 6.5 mm since I get cold so easily. I called his house & he agreed to measure me at his Lakewood shop in the morning. If he had the measurements Day #1, he felt he could finish the suit in time for me to take it back with me.

    My LA Shore side Support Team helped from the minute I landed. Larry & Barbara Tenan graciously picked me up at LAX, despite the fact that my plane was 2 hours late. It was great to see these former patients, now friends. The extent of our visit was in the car from the airport to where I was staying in Santa Monica.

    Lori Rubenstein once again generously shared her lovely Santa Monica guest house with me, including use of her car for 2 days. She was busy seeing patients and managing her PT office, completing the final class for her doctorate degree and attending meetings for the Anti-Defamation League leadership program. So we were somewhat ships passing in the night. Her affectionate kitty Mika was happy to see whoever came home first.

    This was my first trip to California where I stayed in LA & did not fly up to see my No Cal family. I knew I would barely accomplish all I came for in a week, so the trip to Sonoma County would have to wait for our already scheduled visit in March. There were some pangs of guilt at not seeing my 92 year old father. But I have been mourning my loss of him for many years due to his dementia. Although still high functioning and very sweet-natured, in many ways he has already left us. Sister Alberta called my cell phone every day which is a rare luxury for us to be able to talk so often and with better-than-Skype connections.

    My eye doctor kindly saw me without an appointment. I am \”of that age\” when reading goes to heck. He decreased the strength of my right eye contact so I can now read again without reading glasses. Hallelujah!

    I was able to get an appointment to get my boobs squished (aka mammogram). One less thing to do in March.

    I shipped the video camera housing out for repair, as well as a strobe for the still camera system.
    I bought a new dive mask since I think I look like Zorro with my other one. You could not see my eyes that well. Being a frequent underwater model, it is important that my eyes can be seen.

    Skye & I had 2 dinner dates and it was great to catch up. During our first visit she showed me photos from a recent trip to DC & Italy. A great way to spend her brief time on unemployment. Truly. I have always encouraged her to travel whenever she can.

    Mike Lonnes is our sailing friend that does boat shopping for us & is our \”Ship To\” address. Our first rendezvous was at Redondo Marina Day #1 where he gave me the first 7 boxes. Juan, of Rainbow Canvas met us there & took our worn Sunbrella dinghy cover to use as a pattern for a new one. Mike had a job for him on his own boat so this connection worked out well.

    My second meeting with Mike was on Day #6 in the West Marine parking lot – many more boxes. On the last night, after a final transfer of goods in the parking lot of our storage unit, he & Beth took me to dinner at Alejo\’s. Great to see both of them & eat lots of garlic!

    I squeezed in a visit with my soon to be 100 year old former patient and friend Edith Robinson at her assisted living facility. I regret not having a video camera running as she told (& in some cases, re-told) her stories of working for the Nazis, escaping to England, and soliciting a sponsor to come to the US. Amazing stories that will be buried with her as she has kept no journals & has no close family. Her fianc was killed in the camps & she never found another love. She hoped I was the \”surprise\” that the facility promised her for her birthday gift Feb 25. I was touched & sad that I could not stay for her big day, but we had a lovely evening together & I pray she is still there the next time I return.
    Friend Linda van Zeyl, volunteered to go on my Day #6 shopping run and helped me pack it all up back at Lori\’s. Don at M & B had my wetsuit finished a day early, so we buzzed down to Lakewood to pick it up. It fits perfectly, as I knew it would.

    Packing is always an origami project. Two large hatch screens with plastic trim rings were simply too large to fit in any suitcase and I was already bringing the trampoline as a 3rd piece in its own box. So I stuffed my new wetsuit as padding between the 2 screens & shipped them via DHL to the harbor master in Huatulco (a soon and future stop on our way south). We did not want to risk them being held up in Mexico City customs, which would delay our departure from Ixtapa, so felt it best to send them to our next major port of call.
    The rest of the packing went well. It was a huge help to have Linda keep the process moving along as I was inclined to stare at the large piles & feel overwhelmed. Little by little the boxes were emptied, the packing material stuffed into Linda\’s truck, and the suitcases filled with boat booty.
    I even managed to tuck in a few Trader Joes fun items this time, not just vitamins. Dried cranberries, walnuts, flaxseed meal & chocolate covered pistachios to take back to Mexico.

    After being on \”rations\” for 40 days I ate Japanese food, Thai food, Indian food, plus all the fruit & veggies I could lay my hands on.
    I was gone 8 days & despite a hectic pace of \”hunting & gathering\”, I enjoyed it immensely. I have lived in So Cal since I was 18 years old & the Westside was home for 23 years. I\’m not sure if we will ever live in LA again, but it is sure great to visit. And there is nothing like a bit of time off the boat to make me eager to set sail. Being away from Scott is the worst part of these solo trips. Seeing his smiling face upon my return is the best part. Mission accomplished.

    Scott & Cindy
    ————————————————-
    Do not push the \”reply\” button to respond to this
    message if that includes the text of this original
    message in your response. Messages are sent over a
    very low-speed radio link.

    The most concise way to reply is to send a NEW message
    to: \”Scott & Cindy Stolnitz (s/v Beach House)\”
    If you DO use your reply button, be sure to delete
    the original message text and these instructions
    from your reply.

    Replies should not contain attachments and should be
    less than 5 kBytes (2 text pages) in length.

    This email was delivered by an HF private coast station
    in the Maritime Mobile Radio Service, operated by the
    SailMail Association, a non-profit association of yacht
    owners. For more information on this service or on the
    SailMail Association, please see the web site at:

    SailMail Association

  • Ixtapa Marina & Cindy\’s Shopping Trip…..

    Dear F&F,
    January 26 – February 6, 2009

    A couple of months ago we had emailed Ixtapa Marina (just 6 miles from Zihuatenejo) requesting a slip reservation. The harbormaster told us they would not have room. Knowing that things can change, Scott decided to hail them while we were getting diesel at the Ixtapa fuel dock. Lo & behold, they had lots of slips available & we are happy to take one. It is so much easier to do boat projects, get cleaned up, schlep groceries onboard etc. from a dock than when at anchor. So Zihuatenejo will just have to wait.

    Boat washers descended upon us right there at the fuel dock & we signed up with one for the next morning. Always good to get the salt off after a long stretch at sea. There are many big, beautiful power boats in the marina. Mostly with crew, instead of owners, onboard. The owners of that type of boat just fly in once in a while. The hired captain & crew maintain the boat & move it to wherever the owner would like to visit it next.

    It is a 15 minute walk to a small boat supply store, liquor store & row of outdoor cafes. We become \”regulars\” at Z-Pizza because they have free WiFi if you eat or drink something. We buy an internet access card from the supply store, but it only works (sometimes) on 1 laptop from the boat, with a very weak signal. Not good enough for our Skype internet telephone.

    Our boat shopping list was growing long & it became apparent that it would be better to get some critical items sooner rather than later. The most substantial items being 2 autopilot parts, our new trampoline, shower sump pump and generator spare parts. Internet research showed that Alaska has nonstop flights daily to LAX from Ixtapa-Zihuatenejo airport. Knowing we are on a bit of a time clock to get down the coast to Central America, I did not delay booking my flight to LA for January 29.

    As soon as the flight attendant announced we were allowed to turn on cell phones my job began. The first 2 messages were from Don at M & B wetsuits. He discovered that my measurements from 10 years ago were not in the Stolnitz file, he only found Scott\’s. I got great use out of the custom 5 mm wetsuit he made me, but am due for a new one & opted to get the 6.5 mm since I get cold so easily. I called his house & he agreed to measure me at his Lakewood shop in the morning. If he had the measurements Day #1, he felt he could finish the suit in time for me to take it back with me.

    My LA Shore side Support Team helped from the minute I landed. Larry & Barbara Tenan graciously picked me up at LAX, despite the fact that my plane was 2 hours late. It was great to see these former patients, now friends. The extent of our visit was in the car from the airport to where I was staying in Santa Monica.

    Lori Rubenstein once again generously shared her lovely Santa Monica guest house with me, including use of her car for 2 days. She was busy seeing patients and managing her PT office, completing the final class for her doctorate degree and attending meetings for the Anti-Defamation League leadership program. So we were somewhat ships passing in the night. Her affectionate kitty Mika was happy to see whoever came home first.

    This was my first trip to California where I stayed in LA & did not fly up to see my No Cal family. I knew I would barely accomplish all I came for in a week, so the trip to Sonoma County would have to wait for our already scheduled visit in March. There were some pangs of guilt at not seeing my 92 year old father. But I have been mourning my loss of him for many years due to his dementia. Although still high functioning and very sweet-natured, in many ways he has already left us. Sister Alberta called my cell phone every day which is a rare luxury for us to be able to talk so often and with better-than-Skype connections.

    My eye doctor kindly saw me without an appointment. I am \”of that age\” when reading goes to heck. He decreased the strength of my right eye contact so I can now read again without reading glasses. Hallelujah!

    I was able to get an appointment to get my boobs squished (aka mammogram). One less thing to do in March.

    I shipped the video camera housing out for repair, as well as a strobe for the still camera system.
    I bought a new dive mask since I think I look like Zorro with my other one. You could not see my eyes that well. Being a frequent underwater model, it is important that my eyes can be seen.

    Skye & I had 2 dinner dates and it was great to catch up. During our first visit she showed me photos from a recent trip to DC & Italy. A great way to spend her brief time on unemployment. Truly. I have always encouraged her to travel whenever she can.

    Mike Lonnes is our sailing friend that does boat shopping for us & is our \”Ship To\” address. Our first rendezvous was at Redondo Marina Day #1 where he gave me the first 7 boxes. Juan, of Rainbow Canvas met us there & took our worn Sunbrella dinghy cover to use as a pattern for a new one. Mike had a job for him on his own boat so this connection worked out well.

    My second meeting with Mike was on Day #6 in the West Marine parking lot – many more boxes. On the last night, after a final transfer of goods in the parking lot of our storage unit, he & Beth took me to dinner at Alejo\’s. Great to see both of them & eat lots of garlic!

    I squeezed in a visit with my soon to be 100 year old former patient and friend Edith Robinson at her assisted living facility. I regret not having a video camera running as she told (& in some cases, re-told) her stories of working for the Nazis, escaping to England, and soliciting a sponsor to come to the US. Amazing stories that will be buried with her as she has kept no journals & has no close family. Her fianc was killed in the camps & she never found another love. She hoped I was the \”surprise\” that the facility promised her for her birthday gift Feb 25. I was touched & sad that I could not stay for her big day, but we had a lovely evening together & I pray she is still there the next time I return.
    Friend Linda van Zeyl, volunteered to go on my Day #6 shopping run and helped me pack it all up back at Lori\’s. Don at M & B had my wetsuit finished a day early, so we buzzed down to Lakewood to pick it up. It fits perfectly, as I knew it would.

    Packing is always an origami project. Two large hatch screens with plastic trim rings were simply too large to fit in any suitcase and I was already bringing the trampoline as a 3rd piece in its own box. So I stuffed my new wetsuit as padding between the 2 screens & shipped them via DHL to the harbor master in Huatulco (a soon and future stop on our way south). We did not want to risk them being held up in Mexico City customs, which would delay our departure from Ixtapa, so felt it best to send them to our next major port of call.
    The rest of the packing went well. It was a huge help to have Linda keep the process moving along as I was inclined to stare at the large piles & feel overwhelmed. Little by little the boxes were emptied, the packing material stuffed into Linda\’s truck, and the suitcases filled with boat booty.
    I even managed to tuck in a few Trader Joes fun items this time, not just vitamins. Dried cranberries, walnuts, flaxseed meal & chocolate covered pistachios to take back to Mexico.

    After being on \”rations\” for 40 days I ate Japanese food, Thai food, Indian food, plus all the fruit & veggies I could lay my hands on.
    I was gone 8 days & despite a hectic pace of \”hunting & gathering\”, I enjoyed it immensely. I have lived in So Cal since I was 18 years old & the Westside was home for 23 years. I\’m not sure if we will ever live in LA again, but it is sure great to visit. And there is nothing like a bit of time off the boat to make me eager to set sail. Being away from Scott is the worst part of these solo trips. Seeing his smiling face upon my return is the best part. Mission accomplished.

    Scott & Cindy
    ————————————————-
    Do not push the \”reply\” button to respond to this
    message if that includes the text of this original
    message in your response. Messages are sent over a
    very low-speed radio link.

    The most concise way to reply is to send a NEW message
    to: \”Scott & Cindy Stolnitz (s/v Beach House)\”
    If you DO use your reply button, be sure to delete
    the original message text and these instructions
    from your reply.

    Replies should not contain attachments and should be
    less than 5 kBytes (2 text pages) in length.

    This email was delivered by an HF private coast station
    in the Maritime Mobile Radio Service, operated by the
    SailMail Association, a non-profit association of yacht
    owners. For more information on this service or on the
    SailMail Association, please see the web site at:

    SailMail Association

  • Home Sweet Boat…..

    Dear F&F,
    February 6, 2009

    All went very, very well with the return trip. The taxi driver came right on time. It was raining & still dark at 6:30 a.m. We talked story the whole way & the traffic was light. By the time we arrived at LAX I felt I had made a friend. He heaved my heavy bags onto the cart to wheel inside & we hugged each other farewell.

    At the Alaska baggage check in they said that First Class was all full, so they could not upgrade me, but I could ask again at the boarding gate. The agent had mercy on my for having to charge me $25 for the 2nd bag, $100 for the 3rd so even though he should have charged another $50 for the 1 overweight bag he did not. I wanted to hand carry the auto pilot parts because they are so essential. At the checked bag screening area, I asked the TSA lady if she thought my hunks of metal would be ok in my carry on. She said just to take them out of my suitcase, reveal them, ask to be checked & then I should have no problem. She was right. I zippety doo-dahed right through. They did hand check me but were so nice about it & I was in & through security still 3 hours ahead of my plane.

    I sat by a nice looking gentleman on his way to Santa Rosa & we chatted about an hour before he boarded his plane. Then I had milk & a warm bear claw. Then I chatted with a couple going to Z-town for the 3rd time then got yogurt with granola AND oatmeal at Starbucks. I did not starve.

    The boarding gate said all the First Class people for my flight had checked in so no luck with upgrading, but they put me in a window seat in the exit row so had PLENTY of leg room. The couple seated next to me were very nice. She is a retired Occupational Therapist who used to teach at Loma Linda of all things (where I went to PT school). She worked at the university after I graduated, but nonetheless we had plenty to chat about the entire 4 hour flight. So the time just flew as we flew.

    Since I was in the middle of the plane, although they exited from front & back doors, I was just about the last person off. This put me as almost the last person to get through the immigration line. Poor Scott was out in the waiting area apoplectic! – did I miss the plane? Did they confiscate our bags? Worry worry… Me, I had more time to chit chat with everyone in line. Everyone was in a great mood, at the beginning of a vacation, how wonderful.

    All 3 of my bags were there. A cute Mexican porter scooped them up in his cart & off we went to face CUSTOMS. The young bilingual gal only asked to see the packing list of the cardboard box. I showed her (my handwritten note) on the packing slip with the value of $93.32 for \”repairs\” of the boat trampoline. She then asked me to push the button & GREEN LIGHT!! Happy Days, here again. Hugs to the big guy waiting like an expectant father. He sends me out to the curb with my baggage handler while he finished paperwork to rent a car. Just as cheap as 2 cab rides. So we stopped at the Mega market & although an older one than some other cities, it certainly has everything I need. Although no walnuts, cranberries, flaxseed meal, decaf earl grey tea or good quality chocolate, so glad I brought those! We grabbed 24 bottles of wine to stow under the bed before we made it up with clean sheets. Got to get your provisioning priorities straight.

    All is semi put away. Happy & tired Captain & First Mate off to shower & get in my clean sheets.
    Although I missed seeing my No Cal special people, it was FAB FAB FAB for me to just stay in LA. And as happy as I am to be here with my sweetie & Home Sweet Boat I will most certainly be ready to jet back to beloved LAX (& next time No Cal too!) in about 6 weeks time!

    More real grocery shopping tomorrow via rental car. Unfortunately even sailors cannot live on just wine!

    Scott & Cindy
    ————————————————-
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  • Light Show…..

    Dear F&F,
    January 26, 2009

    When my alarm went off at 1:55 a.m., I knew I must have slept pretty well because I was a little grouchy about having to get up. If I am not sleeping well, I am eager to get up & go on watch. I have 2 \”night shifts\” & Scott 1. It just worked out that way & is fine with me. My best sleep is often after I am done with my 2-6:00 a.m. watch. Anyway, after splashing my face with water, putting on shorts & a tank top, I checked in with the Captain. We have a ship in view. The 3rd for his watch. I get the lay of the land & he hands the baton to me & goes to bed. Our handy dandy AIS (automatic identification system) tracker tells me the vessel\’s name, size, speed, direction, time & distance of closest point of approach. This is the most important to me. How close to me is it going to come & when. The software does a mathematical calculation between our boat\’s speed & direction & the same for the other boat. Commercial ships over about 200 feet long are required to have these devices on. They\’re very much like what an air traffic controller uses to track commercial airplanes. When it has calculated that there is no longer any possible chance of a collision, some of the information disappears from my screen. This frustrates me because I don\’t feel that relaxed until I can see with my own eyes that it has safely crossed my path, either in front or behind. There is only one thing for a concerned sailor to do: go get a piece of chocolate cake.

    As I enjoy my snack, the \”Kiwi Arrow\” heading to Guatemala finally passes 8 miles in front of me. Just as I am starting to breathe easier, here comes \”Carnival Spirit\” behind us, en route to Acapulco. I see it with my naked eye before it pops up as a target on the navigation screen. One good thing about cruise ships is that they are lit up like Christmas trees. They do have the proper navigation lights, but also a whole lot of other lights. To be festive & allow the crew & guests see easier as they walk around I guess. Anyway, this 960 feet long by 105 feet wide party palace is going to cross behind me with the CPA (closest point of approach) at 1.8 miles. A miss is as good as a mile, but at night at sea when an enormous ship is in my neighborhood, further is better. I am obligated to hold my course. They are the \”overtaking vessel\” and must avoid me. Right. If I was really concerned I could hail them on VHF channel 16 that all vessels monitor when underway and get verbal confirmation that they see me. But I trust our tracking program & just watch & wait. As the cruise ship is as close to me as it will get I can see its life rafts & other details of the ship with my naked eye. It definitely gets your attention to have something that big passing you. They are cruising at 20 knots, I am going 7.5 knots so we aren\’t talking any great speeds. On the other hand ships don\’t have brakes. Just as I am feeling a bit better about the Carnival boat someone talks on the radio. It startles me to hear a voice suddenly out of nowhere. They have a heavy accent & I didn\’t catch what was said. There is no reason they would hail me now that they have safely passed me. Then another boat replies, \”Okay, green to green\”. As I look out to my right, I now see \”Kew Bridge\” a 523 foot tanker, heading northwest to Topolobampo. Usually boats passing head-on will proceed as cars on a road, passing port (left) side to port side. But due to each boat\’s heading, in this case, it meant less alteration of course for each of them to pass starboard to starboard. The starboard navigation light is green. Thus \”green to green\”. Whew. \”Kew Bridge\” is no problem for me. I can see him clearly without binoculars. His CPA is 3.5 miles. With all those fading out of view I am looking outside & at my screen every 10 minutes, or more often, to see what may pop up on the horizon next. Ship traffic is one part of the light show.

    The second & much more fun part of the light show is bio-luminescence. When I took over watch from Scott it was really active. Our track behind us looks like glowing skid marks. There are intermittent lights that pop up, as if someone below has turned on a flashlight. There can be a wide area glowing, likely a school of fish or plankton. Then the really exciting one is zooming darting lights, like lightening on the water. Must be something swimming very fast. This is the first night of this trip that we have noticed so much glowing in the water. I don\’t know if there actually are more luminescent animals in the water, or because the sea is calm that we can more easily see them tonight.

    The third part of the light show is the shoreline. Ever since coming on watch I can see a distant glow. Not straight in front of me, so it is not Zihuatenejo. We are still 40 miles away & would not expect to see it until much closer. But there must be another coastal town of size somewhat west of Z-town. Keep in mind that the coastline here runs almost due east. Just a bit slopeing south, but mostly east.

    The fourth & final part of the light show is the starry sky. I can make out many constellations, including some I don\’t know the names of. There is no better place to stargaze than on the open ocean. Do you remember the song by Crosby, Stills & Nash \”Southern Cross\”? Well, it is out here too & a very cool thing to see. Being able to see the Southern Cross is another indicator that we are in the tropics. It looks more like a \”Southern Kite\”�.:)

    A some what busy but lovely evening. All the ship action made the time pass quickly. Scott will be up at 6:00 am (45 minutes from now) & I will get one more nap before we arrive midday. I really love to be at sea, especially with such calm conditions. But it is always exciting to arrive in a new place, set the anchor & discover our next temporary \”home\”.

    Scott & Cindy
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    Replies should not contain attachments and should be
    less than 5 kBytes (2 text pages) in length.

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    SailMail Association, a non-profit association of yacht
    owners. For more information on this service or on the
    SailMail Association, please see the web site at:

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  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/01/26 21:47
    LATITUDE: 17-40.06N
    LONGITUDE: 101-37.03W
    MARINE: NO
    WIND_SPEED: 5
    WIND_DIR: 231T
    CLOUDS: 40%
    VISIBILITY: 20
    BARO: 1012
    AIR_TEMP: 32.2C
    COMMENT: Beach House – DOCKED – Marina Ixtapa, Zihuatenejo. Arrived 12 noon local time

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/01/26 00:43
    LATITUDE: 17-43.93N
    LONGITUDE: 103-50.33W
    COURSE: 093T
    SPEED: 7.1
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 5
    WIND_DIR: 216T
    WAVE_HT: 0.3M
    WAVE_PER: 8
    SWELL_DIR: NNW
    SWELL_HT: 0.6M
    SWELL_PER: 8
    CLOUDS: 40%
    VISIBILITY: 25
    BARO: 1012.4
    AIR_TEMP: 28.9C
    SEA_TEMP: 26.7C
    COMMENT: Beach House – EN ROUTE – Zihuatenejo 3/4ths the way…motoring..no wind

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/01/25 13:46
    LATITUDE: 17-47.45N
    LONGITUDE: 105-07.44W
    COURSE: 092T
    SPEED: 5.0
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 10
    WIND_DIR: 124T
    WAVE_HT: 0.3M
    WAVE_PER: 8
    SWELL_DIR: NNW
    SWELL_HT: 0.9M
    SWELL_PER: 8
    CLOUDS: 85%
    VISIBILITY: 20
    BARO: 1012.5
    AIR_TEMP: 25.6C
    SEA_TEMP: 26.7C
    COMMENT: Beach House – EN ROUTE – Zihuatenejo 2/3rds way…WIND EAST/motoring