Category: 2009 Feb Blog

Dear F&F,
February 16, 2009

We slipped our lines from the mooring ball pre dawn, enjoying the lights of Acapulco as we motored away from the bay. It was a calm & comfortable ride all morning. No wind, so motoring along. While Scott took the first watch I cut up my 3 colors of peppers that were starting to wrinkle & put them in the fridge. This inspired the idea to make hummus. Unfortunately I was missing a key ingredient: tahini. But I took a can of garbanzos & dug out my food processor to blend them with garlic, lemon juice & zahatar (spice from Israel). It didn\’t have the creamy texture hummus is supposed to have. Probably the tahini helps with that. But we both enjoyed it as a fresh mid morning snack.

Scott heard on the morning net that the Navy at Puerto Angel can be somewhat difficult. They may bring a dog onboard to sniff out drugs. They may insist on taking your documents until you leave the next day, etc. It was one thing to go to Acapulco despite bad rumors & have our own experience. But there is no real appeal to Puerto Angel to warrant taking the risk of a hassle with the Mexican Navy keeping our documents in their office overnight. So this run is all the way to Huatulco about 230 miles.

We saw many turtles bobbing along, their shells shiny in the sunlight. And one spectaular but brief display by a large humpback whale in the distance. I also believe I saw 2 sharks, or perhaps 1 manta ray & 1 shark. You never know what you are going to see out here. I was a bit less excited to see a large tanker on the horizon that did not show up on our ship spotting AIS gizmo. We don\’t know why it isn\’t working. But now that it is dark, I am going outside every 5 minutes to scan the horizon for lights. So far only a few shore lights. We are about 5 miles off the land.

The wind came up enough by 1:30 pm & from a good angle to fly the spinnaker. It is our largest most colorful sail for downwind conditions. Yes, finally the wind & sea are at our back! It was terrific to be sailing again. Give the engines a rest. It is better for me to have more frequent sailing practice. It is not yet ingrained enough that I forget some procedures if it has been a long time. Scott is ever the patient & informative teacher. The wind held for 4 hours. We knew it would lessen with sundown so took it down before it got too dark. Since I am on watch it is more of a no brainer to motor than sail. We have kept the main up because it gives us some push. I just had to jibe it from port to starboard as the day sea breeze is overtaken by the night land breeze.

No moon yet & many many stars. Wonderful. It is still 81 degrees at 8:30 pm. It was almost too hot to nap when I was off watch during the day, 95 in our cabin. But it felt good to stretch out anyway. I am reading Mark Twain\’s \”Following the Equator\”. I don\’t love his style but feel it is a classic that is appropriate to read at this time so am sticking with it. He really rambles telling his tales. I know I read Huckleberry Finn as a kid & enjoyed it. But this is a much bigger book. Fine to pass the time. I switch to a book by Thich Nhat Hanh (Buddhist monk) when I want more substance. Mainly I am just so happy I feel well enough to read at sea!

I got a red bump where my last scopalamine patch was. I had noticed it itching but didn\’t pay much attention to it. I hope I am not developing an allergy to it. I put a fresh one on last night behind the other ear. It works so well for me, I have to find out if you can vary where on your body you stick it.

Scott has kept himself entertained off watch with Stargate Atlantis. Although I enjoyed the SG-1 series with him (all 10 seasons!) I elected not to participate in either the Atlantis or Battlestar Galactica series. I really prefer reading & have a lot of interesting books onboard.

I think at the rate we are going we will easily arrive in Huatulco before dark tomorrow, Tuesday.

Scott & Cindy
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Dear F&F,
February 13, 2009

We were underway by 7:30 am & anchored by 1:00 pm. I slept pretty well last night & feel MUCH better today thank goodness. Z anchorage looked very pretty at night with all the lights of the buildings. And this morning at dawn with the big ship gone it was quite lovely as we left.

Papanoa is just a little bump in an otherwise straight coastline which runs southeast. There are 2 other monohull sailboats anchored here & we are all heading to Acapulco before dawn tomorrow. One couple has a 2 1/2 year old onboard. She was quite well behaved sitting in their dinghy bouncing besides as Scott talked to the parents. I was hot standing back in the shade of our cockpit. The little girl had a life preserver on & was in the full sun. Yikes! We are so glad to not be burdened with either children or pets onboard. They are heading through Panama Canal to the Caribbean & East Coast on a 3 yr plan. Then back to Seattle to put her in school. Have not met the other boat couple yet.

I took a nap, which was great because I can almost never fall asleep during the day. Unless we are on watches, then I know it is my job to get sleep & it seems like my brain has an easier time shutting down. I am still not 100%. I think I need to just expect it to take me 3-4 days to get my \”sea head\”. We are not feeling compelled to go ashore in this heat (88 degrees & 65% humidity). Fortunately it does cool down at least 15 degrees at night. It seems to be primarily a fishing village here.

There are mixed reviews on Acapulco. Reports of theft & general yuckiness. Scott is kicking himself for not thinking ahead & topping off our diesel cans so we would not need to stop for fuel there. We may get to sail some tomorrow afternoon if the wind picks up. We hate to skip it since we are going by. May be a \”safety in numbers\” thing, with the other 2 boats going there too. There is an anchorage just past it that many cruisers go to instead. But we will probably go & see if we can get a mooring for 1 night. It seems they don\’t ever have docks available. And the docks are med-mooring style (walk off the back). We will see what the story is when we get there. There is a fuel surcharge. Many of the yachties are super cheap & get offended by that sort of thing. We just figure it is part of the cost of traveling.

After Acapulco it will be all day/night run to Puerto Escondido. Escondido to Huatulco a long day. Then we wait for the weather to cross the Gulf of Tehuantepec. This is the narrowest stretch of land in Mexico between the Caribbean & the Pacific. The Gulf of Tehuantepec is LEGENDARY for what are affectionately known as \”Tehuantepeckers\”; winds that can blow your socks off if you go at the wrong time. It will be a 3 day/night trip for us. And we hope to time it when it is NOT exciting. Tis crossing may be a motorboat ride the whole way which is fine with us.

Scott & Cindy
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Dear F&F,
February 12, 2009

Well if you had asked me if I thought we would spend 16 days on the dock at Ixtapa Marina when we first got there I would have thought you were crazy. But it is dawning on us that when we reach docks we do tend to stay longer than expected & get a lot of things done.

And now that we are at the Zihuatanejo anchorage, 1 day & night feels like it will be plenty of time here.

Benefits of the anchorage – free (vs about $65/night by the time you include the electricity & water charges).
Negative of the anchorage – cruise ships come & go. They usually stay only 1 day /night but they bring a lot of baggage. Starting with the ugly giant cruise ship near the entrance of the anchorage. The many shuttle boats zooming to & from the dock (that only the cruise ship shuttle boats can use. Wet landing for us other boaters.) Jet skis tearing up the place. Parasailing boats freaking you out that they will slam their person up in the air into our mast!

Motion of the ocean: how quickly I forget that I get seasick really easy sometimes. Easy to forget at the dock! But just this short little 6 mile trip from Ixtapa made me feel pretty lousy & I had to munch a Bonine & put on my patch. I am better now, but not perfect. I wonder if I will ever \”get over\” it? Or if it is just something I need to be more preventive about. It simply did not occur to me that I might not feel fine during a measly 6 mile trip.

We anchored initially near 3 other catamarans. They were all \”bow & stern\” to keep their bow into the swell. We did not want to hassle with the stern anchor, well, because it is a hassle. And for just 1 night, not worth it if we can avoid it. So we picked up the anchor & moved over amongst the 30 or so other boats. The majority are leaners in the 40-something foot range. The anchorage is still what I would call \”rolly\” due to swell hitting us sideways.

Photos we will post will show what has become of previously charming Zihuat. So much development. Just like every other coastal town in Mexico; over built. We went ashore in the dinghy. Nathaniel was there to take our 20 pesos & make sure our dinghy wasn\’t stolen. The cruise ship people were onshore which is sure to give it a more tourist town feel compared to when they are not here.

Since it was after 5 pm, we sat at a beach palapa cafe & shared a burger with fries & chips with guacamole. So we are fed. Nice not to have to fuss with making dinner since I\’m still not feeling 100%. I do get hungry despite feeling a bit bleah. My seasick symptoms are mainly feeling very tired & headachy, more than stomach yucky. In only get that when conditions are really rough.

Vendors selling every imaginable thing come up to your table: jewelry, sombreros, fabric sarongs/tablecloths, knick-knacks. You have to just ignore them or else you would run away screaming. Then the sell-a-song guys: one with a harp like thingy, one with guitar, a mandolin/accordion duo, on & on… Stand by your table, strum a few notes, see if you make eye contact then move on. Annoying as hell. We would happily have paid more for the food to avoid this routine, understand they are just trying to make a buck & that this is a prime time tourist trap. This season due to the US economy, tourism is down 40% in Mexico. The Mexicans are feeling it big time!

On the dinghy ride back, we said hello to Monty on a small catamaran that sometimes joined us this summer as part of the multihull brigade. We also introduced ourselves to the boat my friend Sandy just left, \”Shanghai\”. We also said hi to Chuck\’s brother & sis-in-law of \”Sun Baby\”, who were near the 1st spot we anchored.

So here we are, finally at Zihuatanejo. I hope to get my sea head after a night\’s sleep & the patch will have time to kick in. Tomorrow we will continue. We are only going about the distance of Marina del Rey to Avalon, to Papanoa. This stop is for the sole purpose of making the next leg to Acaplulco a day time trip, not an overnight. The sailing guidebooks do not say much about it other than it is a safe anchorage.

Scott & Cindy
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Dear F&F,
February 7-11, 2009

Sailor friend Sandy took the bus from Zihuatenejo anchorage and was a big help writing the inventory as I stowed my pantry. All older canned goods are taken out, the new put deeper and the oldest kept most accessible. I label & date the tops of cans so I can quickly see what I am grabbing. The guest cabin still needs some work before we are \”guest ready\” but we have time before Carmina comes to fetch us from El Salvador.

Scott has been working long & hard every day to install all the equipment I brought from LA. I am especially enjoying the newly installed shower sump that happily gulps away the water & helps keep our bilges dry. We still need to re-caulk the shower floor which leaks out beyond the shower. It never ends�

While Sandy & I worked inside, Scott installed the port side of the new trampoline. I tried to talk him out of doing it in the heat of the day, but he was driven. The installing of the new went fine. It was the cutting away of the old that was a pain. I will help him do the final tightening of the new & that side will be done. He will cut the old out first on the starboard side & I will help him with the new installation. He was (justifiably) afraid of falling in the hole if the old was gone. But after having done the port, he feels that is the better was to go. I think only 1 or 2 hacksaw blades fell overboard….

Scott arranged for in interior housekeeper to help me clean. We have not kept up to Eva\’s standards, so I was glad to have Deanna help me with the ceiling vinyl, walls, floors, counters, windows, wipe down, vacuum the saloon cushions, etc, etc. Big job, but necessary to be in ship shape. We worked side by side for 6 hours. It is good to have a clean \”Beach House\”.

One night we were invited for happy hour aboard a very big fancy power boat, \”Quan Yin\”, down the dock. A super nice couple (Rob & Tami) are the Captain & Cook. Plus 1 other crew as deck hand. We brought along another power boat couple (Linda & John) that we had met last year. I brought pizza from the internet place. Linda brought homemade cookies. Tami put out delicious guacamole & chips. Rob poured wine – a good time was had by all. Tami is from Dallas & a live-wire. Very fun. She & Rob shared good info on Costa Rica, including a referral to a guide for seeing the rainforests and a mechanic that may be able to help solve our auto pilot mysteries.

Tami invited me along to the mercado with her. Yippee! Another shopping opportunity. We walked a bit then waved down a cab. I had to make a quick stop at an ATM to get pesos, then on to the mercado. Imagine a Mexican version of the old Fairfax farmers market. The dead animals hanging in the meat market were a bit disconcerting. But the fruits & veggies were great. I bought asparagus, brussel sprouts, broccoli, zucchini, jicama, avocados, tomatoes, 3 colors of bell peppers, cucumber, mangos, apples, pears, peaches, plums, tangerines, bananas & one of those enormous papayas. Produce Heaven! We then went back to the supermarket where I picked a few things I\’d forgotten on Saturday: baby wipes (quick & easy clean/wipe up), more tortillas, more cheese, bay leaves, more rib eye steaks. A pint of coffee Haagen Dazs! So once again – we won\’t starve! It was very fun going marketing with a girlfriend.

Scott had the starboard side trampoline installed by the time I returned from the market. It just needs to be tightened in a day or 2, then the lines trimmed & dressed. His hands are full of blisters & joints aching from the strain of pulling the lines tight all the way around. It was a huge job & he is happy to have it mostly behind him.

We are doing some paperwork inside with the air conditioning on. It is such a nice relief from the heat in the mid afternoon. A big benefit of dock power. Overnight it cools down to a pleasant 68 so we can sleep without the AC. Unless one of the nearby boats are having a late party, in which case you can only sleep with the windows closed & fans on. Some neighboring boats are so rude about cranking up the music until all hours at night. But as we all know, excessive drinking can make a jerk out of many people. But overall. we have enjoyed our time here at Ixtapa Marina.

We plan to move on down to the Z-Town anchorage (only 6 miles) on Thursday, February 12. We will probably stay 1-2 nights then mosey on down toward Acapulco.

Scott & Cindy
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Dear F&F,
January 26 – February 6, 2009

A couple of months ago we had emailed Ixtapa Marina (just 6 miles from Zihuatenejo) requesting a slip reservation. The harbormaster told us they would not have room. Knowing that things can change, Scott decided to hail them while we were getting diesel at the Ixtapa fuel dock. Lo & behold, they had lots of slips available & we are happy to take one. It is so much easier to do boat projects, get cleaned up, schlep groceries onboard etc. from a dock than when at anchor. So Zihuatenejo will just have to wait.

Boat washers descended upon us right there at the fuel dock & we signed up with one for the next morning. Always good to get the salt off after a long stretch at sea. There are many big, beautiful power boats in the marina. Mostly with crew, instead of owners, onboard. The owners of that type of boat just fly in once in a while. The hired captain & crew maintain the boat & move it to wherever the owner would like to visit it next.

It is a 15 minute walk to a small boat supply store, liquor store & row of outdoor cafes. We become \”regulars\” at Z-Pizza because they have free WiFi if you eat or drink something. We buy an internet access card from the supply store, but it only works (sometimes) on 1 laptop from the boat, with a very weak signal. Not good enough for our Skype internet telephone.

Our boat shopping list was growing long & it became apparent that it would be better to get some critical items sooner rather than later. The most substantial items being 2 autopilot parts, our new trampoline, shower sump pump and generator spare parts. Internet research showed that Alaska has nonstop flights daily to LAX from Ixtapa-Zihuatenejo airport. Knowing we are on a bit of a time clock to get down the coast to Central America, I did not delay booking my flight to LA for January 29.

As soon as the flight attendant announced we were allowed to turn on cell phones my job began. The first 2 messages were from Don at M & B wetsuits. He discovered that my measurements from 10 years ago were not in the Stolnitz file, he only found Scott\’s. I got great use out of the custom 5 mm wetsuit he made me, but am due for a new one & opted to get the 6.5 mm since I get cold so easily. I called his house & he agreed to measure me at his Lakewood shop in the morning. If he had the measurements Day #1, he felt he could finish the suit in time for me to take it back with me.

My LA Shore side Support Team helped from the minute I landed. Larry & Barbara Tenan graciously picked me up at LAX, despite the fact that my plane was 2 hours late. It was great to see these former patients, now friends. The extent of our visit was in the car from the airport to where I was staying in Santa Monica.

Lori Rubenstein once again generously shared her lovely Santa Monica guest house with me, including use of her car for 2 days. She was busy seeing patients and managing her PT office, completing the final class for her doctorate degree and attending meetings for the Anti-Defamation League leadership program. So we were somewhat ships passing in the night. Her affectionate kitty Mika was happy to see whoever came home first.

This was my first trip to California where I stayed in LA & did not fly up to see my No Cal family. I knew I would barely accomplish all I came for in a week, so the trip to Sonoma County would have to wait for our already scheduled visit in March. There were some pangs of guilt at not seeing my 92 year old father. But I have been mourning my loss of him for many years due to his dementia. Although still high functioning and very sweet-natured, in many ways he has already left us. Sister Alberta called my cell phone every day which is a rare luxury for us to be able to talk so often and with better-than-Skype connections.

My eye doctor kindly saw me without an appointment. I am \”of that age\” when reading goes to heck. He decreased the strength of my right eye contact so I can now read again without reading glasses. Hallelujah!

I was able to get an appointment to get my boobs squished (aka mammogram). One less thing to do in March.

I shipped the video camera housing out for repair, as well as a strobe for the still camera system.
I bought a new dive mask since I think I look like Zorro with my other one. You could not see my eyes that well. Being a frequent underwater model, it is important that my eyes can be seen.

Skye & I had 2 dinner dates and it was great to catch up. During our first visit she showed me photos from a recent trip to DC & Italy. A great way to spend her brief time on unemployment. Truly. I have always encouraged her to travel whenever she can.

Mike Lonnes is our sailing friend that does boat shopping for us & is our \”Ship To\” address. Our first rendezvous was at Redondo Marina Day #1 where he gave me the first 7 boxes. Juan, of Rainbow Canvas met us there & took our worn Sunbrella dinghy cover to use as a pattern for a new one. Mike had a job for him on his own boat so this connection worked out well.

My second meeting with Mike was on Day #6 in the West Marine parking lot – many more boxes. On the last night, after a final transfer of goods in the parking lot of our storage unit, he & Beth took me to dinner at Alejo\’s. Great to see both of them & eat lots of garlic!

I squeezed in a visit with my soon to be 100 year old former patient and friend Edith Robinson at her assisted living facility. I regret not having a video camera running as she told (& in some cases, re-told) her stories of working for the Nazis, escaping to England, and soliciting a sponsor to come to the US. Amazing stories that will be buried with her as she has kept no journals & has no close family. Her fianc was killed in the camps & she never found another love. She hoped I was the \”surprise\” that the facility promised her for her birthday gift Feb 25. I was touched & sad that I could not stay for her big day, but we had a lovely evening together & I pray she is still there the next time I return.
Friend Linda van Zeyl, volunteered to go on my Day #6 shopping run and helped me pack it all up back at Lori\’s. Don at M & B had my wetsuit finished a day early, so we buzzed down to Lakewood to pick it up. It fits perfectly, as I knew it would.

Packing is always an origami project. Two large hatch screens with plastic trim rings were simply too large to fit in any suitcase and I was already bringing the trampoline as a 3rd piece in its own box. So I stuffed my new wetsuit as padding between the 2 screens & shipped them via DHL to the harbor master in Huatulco (a soon and future stop on our way south). We did not want to risk them being held up in Mexico City customs, which would delay our departure from Ixtapa, so felt it best to send them to our next major port of call.
The rest of the packing went well. It was a huge help to have Linda keep the process moving along as I was inclined to stare at the large piles & feel overwhelmed. Little by little the boxes were emptied, the packing material stuffed into Linda\’s truck, and the suitcases filled with boat booty.
I even managed to tuck in a few Trader Joes fun items this time, not just vitamins. Dried cranberries, walnuts, flaxseed meal & chocolate covered pistachios to take back to Mexico.

After being on \”rations\” for 40 days I ate Japanese food, Thai food, Indian food, plus all the fruit & veggies I could lay my hands on.
I was gone 8 days & despite a hectic pace of \”hunting & gathering\”, I enjoyed it immensely. I have lived in So Cal since I was 18 years old & the Westside was home for 23 years. I\’m not sure if we will ever live in LA again, but it is sure great to visit. And there is nothing like a bit of time off the boat to make me eager to set sail. Being away from Scott is the worst part of these solo trips. Seeing his smiling face upon my return is the best part. Mission accomplished.

Scott & Cindy
————————————————-
Do not push the \”reply\” button to respond to this
message if that includes the text of this original
message in your response. Messages are sent over a
very low-speed radio link.

The most concise way to reply is to send a NEW message
to: \”Scott & Cindy Stolnitz (s/v Beach House)\”
If you DO use your reply button, be sure to delete
the original message text and these instructions
from your reply.

Replies should not contain attachments and should be
less than 5 kBytes (2 text pages) in length.

This email was delivered by an HF private coast station
in the Maritime Mobile Radio Service, operated by the
SailMail Association, a non-profit association of yacht
owners. For more information on this service or on the
SailMail Association, please see the web site at:

SailMail Association

Dear F&F,
January 26 – February 6, 2009

A couple of months ago we had emailed Ixtapa Marina (just 6 miles from Zihuatenejo) requesting a slip reservation. The harbormaster told us they would not have room. Knowing that things can change, Scott decided to hail them while we were getting diesel at the Ixtapa fuel dock. Lo & behold, they had lots of slips available & we are happy to take one. It is so much easier to do boat projects, get cleaned up, schlep groceries onboard etc. from a dock than when at anchor. So Zihuatenejo will just have to wait.

Boat washers descended upon us right there at the fuel dock & we signed up with one for the next morning. Always good to get the salt off after a long stretch at sea. There are many big, beautiful power boats in the marina. Mostly with crew, instead of owners, onboard. The owners of that type of boat just fly in once in a while. The hired captain & crew maintain the boat & move it to wherever the owner would like to visit it next.

It is a 15 minute walk to a small boat supply store, liquor store & row of outdoor cafes. We become \”regulars\” at Z-Pizza because they have free WiFi if you eat or drink something. We buy an internet access card from the supply store, but it only works (sometimes) on 1 laptop from the boat, with a very weak signal. Not good enough for our Skype internet telephone.

Our boat shopping list was growing long & it became apparent that it would be better to get some critical items sooner rather than later. The most substantial items being 2 autopilot parts, our new trampoline, shower sump pump and generator spare parts. Internet research showed that Alaska has nonstop flights daily to LAX from Ixtapa-Zihuatenejo airport. Knowing we are on a bit of a time clock to get down the coast to Central America, I did not delay booking my flight to LA for January 29.

As soon as the flight attendant announced we were allowed to turn on cell phones my job began. The first 2 messages were from Don at M & B wetsuits. He discovered that my measurements from 10 years ago were not in the Stolnitz file, he only found Scott\’s. I got great use out of the custom 5 mm wetsuit he made me, but am due for a new one & opted to get the 6.5 mm since I get cold so easily. I called his house & he agreed to measure me at his Lakewood shop in the morning. If he had the measurements Day #1, he felt he could finish the suit in time for me to take it back with me.

My LA Shore side Support Team helped from the minute I landed. Larry & Barbara Tenan graciously picked me up at LAX, despite the fact that my plane was 2 hours late. It was great to see these former patients, now friends. The extent of our visit was in the car from the airport to where I was staying in Santa Monica.

Lori Rubenstein once again generously shared her lovely Santa Monica guest house with me, including use of her car for 2 days. She was busy seeing patients and managing her PT office, completing the final class for her doctorate degree and attending meetings for the Anti-Defamation League leadership program. So we were somewhat ships passing in the night. Her affectionate kitty Mika was happy to see whoever came home first.

This was my first trip to California where I stayed in LA & did not fly up to see my No Cal family. I knew I would barely accomplish all I came for in a week, so the trip to Sonoma County would have to wait for our already scheduled visit in March. There were some pangs of guilt at not seeing my 92 year old father. But I have been mourning my loss of him for many years due to his dementia. Although still high functioning and very sweet-natured, in many ways he has already left us. Sister Alberta called my cell phone every day which is a rare luxury for us to be able to talk so often and with better-than-Skype connections.

My eye doctor kindly saw me without an appointment. I am \”of that age\” when reading goes to heck. He decreased the strength of my right eye contact so I can now read again without reading glasses. Hallelujah!

I was able to get an appointment to get my boobs squished (aka mammogram). One less thing to do in March.

I shipped the video camera housing out for repair, as well as a strobe for the still camera system.
I bought a new dive mask since I think I look like Zorro with my other one. You could not see my eyes that well. Being a frequent underwater model, it is important that my eyes can be seen.

Skye & I had 2 dinner dates and it was great to catch up. During our first visit she showed me photos from a recent trip to DC & Italy. A great way to spend her brief time on unemployment. Truly. I have always encouraged her to travel whenever she can.

Mike Lonnes is our sailing friend that does boat shopping for us & is our \”Ship To\” address. Our first rendezvous was at Redondo Marina Day #1 where he gave me the first 7 boxes. Juan, of Rainbow Canvas met us there & took our worn Sunbrella dinghy cover to use as a pattern for a new one. Mike had a job for him on his own boat so this connection worked out well.

My second meeting with Mike was on Day #6 in the West Marine parking lot – many more boxes. On the last night, after a final transfer of goods in the parking lot of our storage unit, he & Beth took me to dinner at Alejo\’s. Great to see both of them & eat lots of garlic!

I squeezed in a visit with my soon to be 100 year old former patient and friend Edith Robinson at her assisted living facility. I regret not having a video camera running as she told (& in some cases, re-told) her stories of working for the Nazis, escaping to England, and soliciting a sponsor to come to the US. Amazing stories that will be buried with her as she has kept no journals & has no close family. Her fianc was killed in the camps & she never found another love. She hoped I was the \”surprise\” that the facility promised her for her birthday gift Feb 25. I was touched & sad that I could not stay for her big day, but we had a lovely evening together & I pray she is still there the next time I return.
Friend Linda van Zeyl, volunteered to go on my Day #6 shopping run and helped me pack it all up back at Lori\’s. Don at M & B had my wetsuit finished a day early, so we buzzed down to Lakewood to pick it up. It fits perfectly, as I knew it would.

Packing is always an origami project. Two large hatch screens with plastic trim rings were simply too large to fit in any suitcase and I was already bringing the trampoline as a 3rd piece in its own box. So I stuffed my new wetsuit as padding between the 2 screens & shipped them via DHL to the harbor master in Huatulco (a soon and future stop on our way south). We did not want to risk them being held up in Mexico City customs, which would delay our departure from Ixtapa, so felt it best to send them to our next major port of call.
The rest of the packing went well. It was a huge help to have Linda keep the process moving along as I was inclined to stare at the large piles & feel overwhelmed. Little by little the boxes were emptied, the packing material stuffed into Linda\’s truck, and the suitcases filled with boat booty.
I even managed to tuck in a few Trader Joes fun items this time, not just vitamins. Dried cranberries, walnuts, flaxseed meal & chocolate covered pistachios to take back to Mexico.

After being on \”rations\” for 40 days I ate Japanese food, Thai food, Indian food, plus all the fruit & veggies I could lay my hands on.
I was gone 8 days & despite a hectic pace of \”hunting & gathering\”, I enjoyed it immensely. I have lived in So Cal since I was 18 years old & the Westside was home for 23 years. I\’m not sure if we will ever live in LA again, but it is sure great to visit. And there is nothing like a bit of time off the boat to make me eager to set sail. Being away from Scott is the worst part of these solo trips. Seeing his smiling face upon my return is the best part. Mission accomplished.

Scott & Cindy
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Dear F&F,
February 6, 2009

All went very, very well with the return trip. The taxi driver came right on time. It was raining & still dark at 6:30 a.m. We talked story the whole way & the traffic was light. By the time we arrived at LAX I felt I had made a friend. He heaved my heavy bags onto the cart to wheel inside & we hugged each other farewell.

At the Alaska baggage check in they said that First Class was all full, so they could not upgrade me, but I could ask again at the boarding gate. The agent had mercy on my for having to charge me $25 for the 2nd bag, $100 for the 3rd so even though he should have charged another $50 for the 1 overweight bag he did not. I wanted to hand carry the auto pilot parts because they are so essential. At the checked bag screening area, I asked the TSA lady if she thought my hunks of metal would be ok in my carry on. She said just to take them out of my suitcase, reveal them, ask to be checked & then I should have no problem. She was right. I zippety doo-dahed right through. They did hand check me but were so nice about it & I was in & through security still 3 hours ahead of my plane.

I sat by a nice looking gentleman on his way to Santa Rosa & we chatted about an hour before he boarded his plane. Then I had milk & a warm bear claw. Then I chatted with a couple going to Z-town for the 3rd time then got yogurt with granola AND oatmeal at Starbucks. I did not starve.

The boarding gate said all the First Class people for my flight had checked in so no luck with upgrading, but they put me in a window seat in the exit row so had PLENTY of leg room. The couple seated next to me were very nice. She is a retired Occupational Therapist who used to teach at Loma Linda of all things (where I went to PT school). She worked at the university after I graduated, but nonetheless we had plenty to chat about the entire 4 hour flight. So the time just flew as we flew.

Since I was in the middle of the plane, although they exited from front & back doors, I was just about the last person off. This put me as almost the last person to get through the immigration line. Poor Scott was out in the waiting area apoplectic! – did I miss the plane? Did they confiscate our bags? Worry worry… Me, I had more time to chit chat with everyone in line. Everyone was in a great mood, at the beginning of a vacation, how wonderful.

All 3 of my bags were there. A cute Mexican porter scooped them up in his cart & off we went to face CUSTOMS. The young bilingual gal only asked to see the packing list of the cardboard box. I showed her (my handwritten note) on the packing slip with the value of $93.32 for \”repairs\” of the boat trampoline. She then asked me to push the button & GREEN LIGHT!! Happy Days, here again. Hugs to the big guy waiting like an expectant father. He sends me out to the curb with my baggage handler while he finished paperwork to rent a car. Just as cheap as 2 cab rides. So we stopped at the Mega market & although an older one than some other cities, it certainly has everything I need. Although no walnuts, cranberries, flaxseed meal, decaf earl grey tea or good quality chocolate, so glad I brought those! We grabbed 24 bottles of wine to stow under the bed before we made it up with clean sheets. Got to get your provisioning priorities straight.

All is semi put away. Happy & tired Captain & First Mate off to shower & get in my clean sheets.
Although I missed seeing my No Cal special people, it was FAB FAB FAB for me to just stay in LA. And as happy as I am to be here with my sweetie & Home Sweet Boat I will most certainly be ready to jet back to beloved LAX (& next time No Cal too!) in about 6 weeks time!

More real grocery shopping tomorrow via rental car. Unfortunately even sailors cannot live on just wine!

Scott & Cindy
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This email was delivered by an HF private coast station
in the Maritime Mobile Radio Service, operated by the
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