Author: kerrizane

  • Arrival at Hiva Oa, Marquesas Islands…..

    Dear F&F,
    June 17-18, 2009

    Yesterday (June 16) was a good day. Scott & I have had some nice times while Mike was off watch in his cabin. We are so used to being alone together, we have been a bit restrained from our usual playfulness with crew onboard. We would usually play a lot more music, dance, sing & cuddle. Mike was a huge help & we would certainly have him along again. But it will soon be time to return him to wife Beth who is missing him greatly and resume our duo .

    I MADE BREAD! We were motoring during my 4:00-8:00 a.m. watch. I followed Mike\’s English Muffin bread recipe and it came out great. Delicious and easy, no kneading, or punching down. It just rises once in the pan. So I am all set now: I can make yogurt & bread, what more could we want? Yes a steady supply of fruits & veggies is nice. I am happy that I\’ve been able to pace the ripening of my papayas so they will just last for the duration. I don\’t remember anything about the market on Hiva Oa, other than it was small. But Scott has been in contact with several boats recently there & has information and recommendations on everything.

    We are using an agent to check in to French Polynesia. The company\’s main office is in Papeete with a representative for the Marquesas at Hiva Oa. She will help with check-in and getting flight reservations for Mike. We will also get a fuel permit through the agent. This gives us a discount of nearly 50% from what they would charge foreigners without this permit. We need a lot of fuel since we motored about 72 hours plus ran the generator every day. The savings to us is well worth the cost of the permit.

    We are sailing right now but the pattern the past few days is that it dies off at night so then we motor. It works out fine. I will have the midnight – 4:00 a.m. shift tonight so will hopefully be the one to see Land Ho first. At least on radar. We have seen a couple of fishing boats, but far in the distance so no worries about collision. It is interesting that over 200 miles away from the islands they are out here fishing.

    ARRIVAL DAY – June 17
    It rained, the islands were blanketed in low clouds, visible only on radar for a long time. But we knew they were there and the miles were ticking down. I had told the guys to let me sleep as long as I could, to not wake me for the first Land Ho! When I got up of my own accord at 9:30 a.m. (another long 5 hour sleep – yippee!) I could see Fatu Hiva and a couple of the other islands. The clouds hid them entirely then the sun & breeze made them visible again.

    It was midday as we came alongside Hiva Oa, our entry island, and we had good visual. We had to make the 90 degree right turn into the bay before any anchored boats could be seen. We were the 9th cruising boat in the anchorage, 4 of them catamarans. Because it is somewhat close quarters, all the boats set bow & stern anchors (front & back) to prevent swinging with the change of wind & current. A single-hander from Arizona was right in front of us & friendly with information about check-in, the town, internet etc. It was mid afternoon by the time we settled in. We celebrated with an early happy hour then took a nap. I slept like an unconscious person. When I awoke at 6:00 p.m. I knew I\’d better feed the guys. I heated a can of beans & served it with chips so no one went to bed hungry. It was so fantastic to stay in bed all night. I showered & went to bed about 8:00 p.m. & did not get up until 7:00 a.m. Even my couple of trips to the bathroom were enjoyable, knowing I was awake in the middle of the night & did not have to go on watch!

    June 18
    Scott hailed our agent on the VHF radio as instructed, but no response. He then emailed their main office in Tahiti, and a quick reply with Sandra\’s phone numbers. We were told her radio was not working. We called via satellite phone & she said she would pick us up onshore in 10 minutes. There is no dinghy dock (as a barge which is � sunk on it has put it out of commission) , but it is still a dry landing. You step off onto a small wooden platform & tie up with a long line. You have to throw an anchor off the back of the dinghy to keep it away from being bashed against the rocky shore. You have to notice whether the tide is rising or falling. This will determine how much scope (length) of anchor line you need out to still be able to pull the dinghy in when you return & want to retrieve the dinghy.

    We had 2 bags of plastic trash that we had saved from our crossing & deposited in barrels onshore. I had carefully washed each bit as tossed so it was not stinky after 17 1/2 days. Sandra, our agent, greeted us & we struggled to speak French to her. A bit tough to switch after nearly 2 years in Spanish speaking countries. She also understood & spoke enough English that we managed. She said she would take our passports & other check-in documents to the Gendarme tomorrow. It seems they only work in the morning and on certain days for check ins. She showed us where the small Air Tahiti office was (to book Mike\’s flight home) & told us that the Post Office had internet connections. It was sunny, hot & humid on land. The roads were paved & many more homes & buildings have been built since Scott & I were here 13 years ago.

    Long story short, Mike has a flight from here to Nuka Hiva to Tahiti. His Tahiti to LA flight is in question. The office had a problem with their fax machine. We took the information to the hardware store to fax from there. The travel guy said to check with him in the morning, he should have an email from Air Tahiti with the confirmation code. Meanwhile we have to make sure Mike will get his passport back before getting on any airplanes. I\’m sure it will all work out.

    I took advantage of the market opportunity. Of course a baguette. A long lovely French baguette. A can of whole tomatoes, olives, red wine, shortbread cookies, eggs, flour. The cargo ship came in today, so the shopping should be better tomorrow. There was no produce of interest, only apples and massive cucumbers. As we walked back to the bay, we saw 2 busloads of tourists that obviously had just come off the ship. We didn\’t know there was much tourism here besides cruisers. We have no idea where they were being taken. We tried to hitchhike but the locals just kept driving by. After we walked more than half of the 2 mile distance, a truck finally stopped. It was hot but lovely to be walking. The green trees & foliage seemed extra green after days of only blue & grey at sea.

    Mike helped hoist Scott up the mast to cut off the broken piece of our mainsail track. They want to do one or two other projects before Mike departs. He is schlepping back a bunch of stuff that we don\’t need onboard any more. I washed all my mildew smelling clothes, wiped the closet out with vinegar & transferred the last of the produce to the main fridge so I can take the small one offline. Tonight\’s dinner is pork chops (from the Galapagos) with a can of madera sauce I just bought in town plus frozen peas & of course the baguette. The French cabernet syrah is delicious and it is cooling off as the sun goes behind the mountain. A good first day.

    Scott & I will be here at least through Wednesday since Sandra said it will take three business days to get the fuel permit. Then we will sail to some of the other Marquesas Islands, all day sail distance.

    Fellow passagemakers \”Uliad\” got in today and we expect \”Giselle\” tomorrow. They were the 2 other sailboats Scott talked with the most via single sideband radio. At some point I\’m sure we will have a get acquainted gathering. Sending Love & Hugs to you all!
    Cindy at Anchor – Day #1

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/06/17 15:36
    LATITUDE: 10-02.06S
    LONGITUDE: 138-07.38W
    COURSE: 279T
    SPEED: 8.0
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 9
    WIND_DIR: E
    WAVE_HT: 0.6M
    WAVE_PER: 8
    SWELL_DIR: SSE
    SWELL_HT: 1.5M
    SWELL_PER: 08
    CLOUDS: 80%
    VISIBILITY: 20
    BARO: 1012.4
    AIR_TEMP: 26.1C
    SEA_TEMP: 27.2C
    COMMENT: Beach House – EN ROUTE – Marquesas Islands, Hiva Oa – 176 nm for 24 hours – Fatu Hiva on Radar, 49 miles to go, PM arrival 17 + days

  • Helpful Replies to \”Why Sailors Drink & Swear\”…..

    Dear F&F,
    June 15, 2009

    I got several great responses to my raw & low-down email sent to my shoreside support group. I am blessed to have so many wonderful friends & loving family. Hearing how much people are with me in spirit really helps me feel connected & not go completely round the bend.

    Sister Maria\’s sweet reply to my Low Down day:
    \”Being at sea must truly connect you with the deepest parts of yourself, the good, the icky, the scary, the brave. What an opportunity to be free from all other distractions and plumb the depths of your being. Of course, that wasn\’t your intention, for that usually people sign up to sit on a cushion in a dark room with incense burning.

    Fortunately, it sounds as if you dip in and out of those places and are still surrounded by love, good food, capable men. Parts of this experience will be lots better in the telling than the living I am
    sure, as many of our grueling life experiences are. May you enjoy the ups and dig into the downs in a way that continues to feed your soul.

    For an earth sign like you, who loves creature comforts as much as I do, this is a super stretch. But, you have always been good at stretches (of your soul as well as yoga). I am sure Scott is grateful to and proud of you. And you can be proud of yourself. Hang in there, I hear land is just days away.\”

    Friend Linda had this suggestion:
    \”I have something you may be able to use the next time you \’bottom out\’. Begin to sing, \”Nobody knows the trouble I\’ve seen, Nobody knows my sorrow. Nobody knows the trouble I\’ve seen, it\’s such a (sad, horrid, rotten, stinky, lousy, miserable, stupid, annoying – choose one or all) tomorrow.\”
    Sing loudly, slump over, sing sadly, Feel the words, feel your misery, sing with feeling! But sing out! Don\’t stop until you begin to smile and I guarantee you WILL begin to smile. Keep singing until you feel the smile all over. This is one of my favorite things to do when self-pity takes over. Self pity is where I can really shine! But a quick reminder of how silly my \”sorrows\” are and things come back into a better perspective. Yeah, there are lots of things to gripe about, but being retired and taking care of a herd of cats (or, as in your case, sailing away) aren\’t the worst things in this world. Annoying stuff to be sure. Unpleasant, uncomfortable, demanding, achy, (you think of some) but life threatening? No. Life altering? Perhaps. Reason to pitch it all in? No. Reason to gripe? You Bet! So, next time Mr. Misery comes to call, wallow for a bit and then begin to sing, \”Nobody knows the trouble I\’ve seen . . .\” and remember, this was an old slave song. Now THEY had troubles.
    Heck, you can be miserable anywhere! Why not while being seasick, diesel sick, motion fatigued and sick and tired of tedious adjustments of sail and gizmos? Besides, did you expect this to be a \’thrill a minute\’ adventure, one endless round of joyful cavorting with dolphins, a daily round of glorious sunrises and sunsets?\”

    And here is what friend Lori wrote to cheer me up:
    2007 – Chinese year of the Chicken – Bird Flu Pandemic devastates parts of Asia
    2008 – Chinese year of the Horse – Equine Influenza decimates Australian racing
    2009 – Chinese year of the Pig – Swine Flu Pandemic kills hundreds of pigs/humans around the globe.
    Next year 2010 – Chinese year of the Cock – God help us all…
    ASIDE FROM SCOTT: This is pure Cindy!
    Keep em\’ coming,
    Cindy

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/06/14 15:04
    LATITUDE: 08-47.71S
    LONGITUDE: 129-28.69W
    COURSE: 276T
    SPEED: 6.7
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 7
    WIND_DIR: E
    WAVE_HT: 0.6M
    WAVE_PER: 8
    SWELL_DIR: S
    SWELL_HT: 1.5M
    SWELL_PER: 08
    CLOUDS: 90%
    VISIBILITY: 15
    BARO: 1014.4
    AIR_TEMP: 24.4C
    SEA_TEMP: 27.2C
    COMMENT: Beach House – EN ROUTE – Marquesas Islands, Hiva Oa – 144 NET nm for 24 hours – Sailed 170, Gybeing, Motoring, Some Rain, 545 nm to go.

  • Onward…..

    Dear F&F,
    June 13, 2009

    The wind gods had pity on me during my dog watch yesterday evening. With just 2 knots more wind, our speed was better and managing the helm easier. I was worn out from wallowing in negativity so slept quite well from 8:30 pm until 3:00 a.m. I could tell the boat was sailing slow again, from the motion and the sounds. I was hoping Mike would say it was time to motor, but no such luck. He handed me the auto pilot remote with instructions for the wind angle parameters that had been working for him. I made a cafe au lait & sat down to my task. There I was, in the dark with a half moon & plenty of stars beginning the 4:00 a.m. shift. I focused on the screens & the numbers but I also made sure to look out at the waves & up at the edge of the sail. Somehow I was doing it. I was keeping the boat moving. Creeping slowly over each swell, not getting stuck in the trench but riding to the top of the next with momentum. Mike said \”the sail will collapse if you steer left into the teens\”. I managed to avoid doing that. I did get too low (away from the wind) a few times, but could drive up (toward the wind) & recover from each lull. I knew Scott would be up for his morning net about 6:30 a.m., so I didn\’t have to think about enduring the full 4 hours. I just wanted to get through until sunrise. A new day. And Scott\’s company. I could do it. And I did.

    Scott had his check-in with our fellow passage makers then asked for breakfast. So happy was I to cast aside my Helm Hat & don the Goddess of the Galley gown! We ate Mike\’s bread toasted with cream cheese & jam. He sat with me. Yesterday I did end up \”sharing my pain\” with him & he stayed close to me the rest of the day. He keeps telling me that this is the longest passage we are likely to ever make. Ever. Wow. That doesn\’t completely sink in. But what I think he intends for me to hear is that if I can just get through this, it will not be this hard for this long in the future.

    I know some of you probably imagine that I\’d want to just let 3 guys take the boat on the next crossing & fly to meet them. But I would hate to hear: \”Hon, you should have been there, it was awesome! The wind was steady, the seas were calm, you would have loved it!\”. No, I am stubborn plus I am stuck like glue on Scott & can\’t bear to think of him out here without me. He would be fine. But I would miss him too much.

    It is too soon to say the end is in sight, but we are down to 642 miles to go. Our Velocity Made Good (the speed in the direction that matters) is averaging 6. If I\’m doing the math correctly we will be there in 4 1/2 days. I can do 4 1/2 days. Heck, I\’ve just done 2 weeks! I\’ve got shrimp defrosting & will cook it with garlic served on rice. Mike & I have been enjoying the balsamic dressed beets. Scott sweetly enjoys whatever I hand him. We are a good team. Scott is napping. Mike is steering. I get another dog watch (only 2 hours), happy day!

    We are getting there. Perhaps I have had just a bit too much time to think. The ocean is vast and yet my mind keeps drifting inwards. I will be eager to explore the island above & below. Thank you for keeping me company on my ups & downs, (lefts, rights & sideways…)

    Cindy at Sea, Day #14

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/06/13 15:09
    LATITUDE: 09-09.08S
    LONGITUDE: 127-04.59W
    COURSE: 233T
    SPEED: 7.5
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 13
    WIND_DIR: E
    WAVE_HT: 0.6M
    WAVE_PER: 8
    SWELL_DIR: S
    SWELL_HT: 2.4M
    SWELL_PER: 08
    CLOUDS: 30%
    VISIBILITY: 20
    BARO: 1014.2
    AIR_TEMP: 28.9C
    SEA_TEMP: 27.2C
    COMMENT: Beach House – EN ROUTE – Marquesas Islands, Hiva Oa – 181 nm for 24 hours – 686 nm to go, Will be gybeing downwind

  • Quitting Is Not An Option…..

    Dear F&F,
    June 2009 – Passage to the Marquesas

    In response to my complaints about sleep deprivation and seasickness, I received this in an email from my sister Alberta: \”I think you are amazing even tolerating it at all. I probably would have quit by now.\”

    I know she is not the only one thinking this. She got me to thinkin\’. These are my thoughts…

    What would I do, hide in my cabin in misery for the remaining days at sea? Not do my part & create more work for the guys? No, quitting is simply not an option. Not that I would want it to be. I came on this boat ride with eyes wide open. Every trip I am hopeful that I will not be seasick, but I have the means to ward it off, so I just deal with it. After a low point on day #4, I have been more at peace despite little sleep. It is mostly a mental thing, thinking I need 8 hours. The fact is I feel fine on 4 and if I get another 1-2 hour lie down, I am really good. Playing the \”video game\” is not that fun for me, but I now know to ask for breaks which really helps. And I am getting a bit better at playing the game, so it is less frustrating. Practice makes perfect. I don\’t think we\’ll be out here long enough for me to get it down perfectly, but at least I don\’t feel like such a spaz. Both Scott & Mike have given me good pointers and I learn a lot by watching them. I also see that they don\’t always do it perfectly either, so this helps me be easier on myself.

    I am pretty tough. I am an athlete. I rode a bicycle 125 miles, twice. I climbed Mount Whitney. I ran four marathons in two years. I have a high pain threshold and am known to be stoic. I am competitive with others, but mostly with myself. I want to do whatever I do the best that I can. I am an eager student and have kind teachers. I fell in love with Scott on an 18 hour boat race onboard a sailboat without a toilet. Yep, peed in a bucket. He proposed to me a year later in the fog on a 24 hour boat race.

    Building our boat in France, working on it non-stop in LA for 3 years, then continuing to do major projects during our first 18 months abroad has been challenging. But we have been rewarded with all major systems functioning well during this passage (quick – knock wood!). Yes, there have been some minor annoying problems but nothing insurmountable. It is a boat. By definition it will require constant repairs, replacements and maintenance. Every time I get down with the amount of work or hardships with this lifestyle, I ponder what might I prefer to be doing? Nothing leaps to mind. I miss my friends & my family. But I can get letters from you in the middle of the ocean! I get weary of the constant motion & noise of being underway. But in a week or so we will be in a calm anchorage & have all the time we need to rest & recover. I don\’t mind cooking for us, especially now that I can count galley time as credit toward my watch shifts. It was worth the ride just to wake up to the aroma of Mike\’s freshly baked bread – twice! I only regret not buying more flour. The sea life I have described. But even the hours when there is nothing but the vast expanse of blue ocean in every direction is quite peaceful and I am content. No, more than content. I am happy to be here. Despite the computer seasick syndrome. Despite the lack of sleep. I can be an insomniac in a perfectly still, quiet house. So to get 4 hours here & there in these conditions, heck! I\’m doing great!

    I am doing great, but keep in mind that I tend to write more when a bit down. It has always been my way to release my troubled mind. But rest assured that there is no place I would rather be. Scott, Mike & I are a perfect team. I never imagined a third person would be so comfortable for so long. He is pleasant and easy going. He does his part and more. We each look out for the others. Scott, who is not known for his culinary skills, one evening asked me about Mike\’s dinner. Scott & I had already eaten while Mike was still asleep. I left a note for Mike with the quesadillas in the skillet & a small container of guacamole. Just re-heat & eat. But Scott served it to him. Mike may not realize the significance of that. But I can count few times that Scott has ever served me anything, except by my direct request & detailed instructions. He did prepare me a delicious peanut butter & cream cheese sandwich yesterday.

    Neither Mike nor I are very interested in listening to or talking on the two radio networks that Scott checks in with twice daily. But we are amused & supportive of Scott\’s excitement at talking to various hams around the country. He is so proud to report about our journey and progress. A long time family friend, Howard Lipstone in Brentwood, has been connecting with him every evening. All the old guys on the Maritime Mobile Network are terrific and have looked up weather info for us and are always quick to offer to make phone calls or help us in any way they can.

    Forgive me if I have dwelled on the difficulties more than the good parts. I am eager to get to our new \”neighborhood\”. So many islands to discover and dive. We\’ve had encouraging reports from sailors that have been to the Marquesas, diving with manta rays. It may take us yet another week. But I am in no rush. We are all safe & enjoying the ride. Being comfortable is not a strong priority for me. I find it far more satisfying to conquer the challenges of life on the open ocean than to sit tied to the same old dock. We are gypsies. Wanderers, Explorers. We are doing it together. Out here,To the finish.

    I am not a quitter. I am a crucial Member of the Team. I am First Mate – and Last Mate! I am the Goddess of the Galley. I am Mistress of the High Seas.
    And Always, Cindy the Sailor (ok, sometimes the Motorer!)

    Scott & Cindy

  • Passage Report…..

    Dear F&F,
    June 8-10, 2009

    The fact that I am happy to be motoring for my night shift 2 nights in a row says less about my passion for sailing but more about my weariness with \”video\” games. I described how tedious it is to keep the spinnaker flying in light air. We have had our wind disappear the past 2 nights. It gives me a welcome break from staring at the screens and turning the little knob. I did that duty during my noon to 4:00 p.m. watch. The first hour I feel like a spaz & struggle to find the \”sweet spot\”, where the boat\’s speed is fairly steady & the chute is full all the time. The second hour I get in the groove. Although I am not as skilled as the guys at helming in light air, I am overall making the boat go in the right direction without collapsing the chute. They each often listen to music with earphones. I am not (yet) able to maintain steering concentration listen to music. It takes my complete attention. I am just beginning to be able to have a casual conversation & do a decent job. By the third hour I am twitchy, bored and looking at my watch too often. By the fourth hour I can be in true pain. My body does not like to stay still. I have come up with several creative places to position myself as I play the video game with the remote control, but I am really DONE by the fourth hour. It is tedious, repetitive and seems more like work than fun. Scott tried to correct me when I mentioned \”my shift\”. He said it is \”my watch\”. But I said no, I am not simply watching. I am constantly working, so for me it feels like a shift where I \”put in my time\”. The guys seem to have endless patience for it. I get weary much sooner. If the wind is steady & stronger, then it is easier to keep her moving and is way more fun. Mid to heavy air requires a different kind of attention. I don\’t mind it as much. But we have had a lot of light air and more is predicted over the next few days. The swell has been on the beam (side) instead of the stern (back) so we are not able to surf & get any additional speed from the push of the waves. Just rolly polly, lumpy bumpy feeling as we are rocked from left to right, up and down.

    From 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. we had a pretty good day of medium than light wind sailing. Scott blessedly came up to spell me at 3:00 pm. I hadn\’t eaten much lunch so I made us an early dinner, leaving Mike\’s burgers out for him to cook when he got up. Scott then got on the Pan Pacific Radio Network to check in as he does daily at 4:00 p.m. Lucky for me, Mike came up & took over the watch so I could really be off. Since Scott & I have switched our watch positions I am getting more rest. It has been much better over the past 24 hours. Also getting the guys to cover for me so that I can do my cooking duty while it is my watch time, helps me really get to be off when I am supposed to. Such a relief. I was really running myself ragged & didn\’t realize exactly what was wrong.

    When on motoring watch, I go outside every 20 minutes to make sure the auto pilot is steering the correct course, monitor our Speed Over Ground, look at the engine rpms & gauges to make sure all is well there, keep an eye out for ships & hopefully give the boys a peaceful 4 hours.

    Skye turned 24 today, June 10. When did that happen? Happy Birthday to You!!! Aren\’t we still 24???

    Scott & Cindy

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/06/10 15:21
    LATITUDE: 07-06.00S
    LONGITUDE: 119-38.96W
    COURSE: 270T
    SPEED: 6.8
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 9
    WIND_DIR: E
    WAVE_HT: 0.6M
    WAVE_PER: 8
    SWELL_DIR: S
    SWELL_HT: 1.8M
    SWELL_PER: 08
    CLOUDS: 20%
    VISIBILITY: 20
    BARO: 1013
    AIR_TEMP: 31.1C
    SEA_TEMP: 25.6C
    COMMENT: Beach House – EN ROUTE – Marquesas Islands, Hiva Oa – 160.5 nm for 24 hours – slow going, light air, motoring last 5 hours.

  • POSITION REPORT

    YOTREPS: YES
    TIME: 2009/06/08 15:39
    LATITUDE: 06-52.74S
    LONGITUDE: 114-14.89W
    COURSE: 277T
    SPEED: 6.2
    MARINE: YES
    WIND_SPEED: 10
    WIND_DIR: ESE
    WAVE_HT: 0.6M
    WAVE_PER: 8
    SWELL_DIR: S
    SWELL_HT: 1.8M
    SWELL_PER: 08
    CLOUDS: 35%
    VISIBILITY: 20
    BARO: 1013.4
    AIR_TEMP: 29.4C
    SEA_TEMP: 25.6C
    COMMENT: Beach House – EN ROUTE – Marquesas Islands, Hiva Oa – 170.5 nm for 24 hours – Motored 8 hours, now Spinnaker