Author: kerrizane

What a difference a day makes!…..

19 October 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

We\’re just completing our second day at sea and surprisingly, we\’ll do around 170+ miles. I say surprisingly, because yesterday we had at least a one knot \”counter current\”. This is a phenomenon where the counter clockwise circulation of the Southern Hemisphere meets the clockwise circulation of the Northern Hemisphere. Intuitively, you would be led to believe that this should become synergistic and complement the prevailing west bound current.

But…you\’d be only partially correct. The world spins in mysterious ways and as such, there is a counter current which flows in the opposite direction. This is true in all the world\’s major oceans. We certainly found a branch of it yesterday as we were going almost a knot faster through the water than we were \”over the ground\” per our GPS. The seas certainly acted like it as well giving us a much more uncomfortable sea state than we would have expected for the approximately 15 knots of wind we had most of yesterday. We seem to be south of the counter current now as our speed over the ground is faster than our speed through the water AND the sea state is half what it was yesterday. The ride has become downright comfortable.

Our strategy is to maintain a southwesterly heading for about another day. This will get us close to the latitude of the top of Madagascar, around the Mascarene Banks (of very shallow water – we don\’t want to go over it as it could create steep waves) and keep us further south of the HRA…just in case! There is an island group called the Angalega\’s which looks to be uninhabited, but could be a safe haven for boats trying to \”hang around\” if you know what I mean. Hence, we\’ll stay roughly 100 miles to the south; remaining a needle in a haystack!

We move our clocks today to +5 UTC (We\’re now 5 hours ahead of England, 10 hours ahead of the US East Coast and 13 ahead of the US West Coast). We\’re almost at the half way point to being around the world from Los Angeles where this voyage began.

Lots of squalls last night, but more threatening looking than anything nasty. We flew the main with one reef and full genoa all night. Nikki gets to sleep in an extra hour with the clock change, so Captain and Crew are both happy this morning with the much more comfortable conditions.

We just cracked the \”1100 miles to go\” number on our log and it\’s official, we\’ve done 173 nm the last 24 hours. Love to hear from you,

KIT, Scott and off watch Nikki

Photographs and Memories…..

18 October 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

We left Peros Banhos yesterday around 10:30 a.m. and had a slow but lovely sail all day. Just after mid-night (why is it always mid-night?…:-)) the wind came up a bit too strong for our sail plan and we changed the reacher out for the staysail with the full main sail. We\’ve been doing 6.5-8.5 knots and are staying as south as we can. There are a few reasons we\’re staying south. First, the prevailing wind will eventually shift a bit more south putting the wind and sea uncomfortably on our beam. Second, there is a very large shoal area at about the half way point and we want to go south of it to stay out of any big/unusual wave patterns. Next, it keeps us further south of the (HRA), military speak for \”high risk area\” which is north of 10 degrees south as we approach Madagascar. We\’ll be around 12 degrees south when we get there. Lastly, as we get closer to Madagascar, the winds will shift even further south and we want to keep them on our stern.

As to the bad guys, the first big cyclone (hurricane) of the season has blown ahead of us on our path and is likely to send anyone away from the area we\’re intending to go. \”Anais\” was the strongest \”early\” cyclone ever recorded in the West Indian Ocean at Cat 3, it had winds of 115 knots. Not something to be near! The weather forecast for the next 5 days looks good, with building trades for a day starting tonight or tomorrow, then backing off a bit. The good news is that there appears to be no repeat scenario for \”Anais\” setting up as it cleared all the instability out of this area for awhile.

The usual small squalls on the horizon, nothing out of the ordinary….

We enjoyed our time at Salomon and Peros Banhos and \”Took only photographs and memories, left only foot prints\”….. Except for the yet still amazing amount of floating plastic and \”flip flops\”, it was much like 1000 years ago.

KIT! Scott and Sleeping Nikki

Island Hike, Last nights super squall…..

14 October 2012

Dear F&F,

As we are still waiting on our weather window, Nikki and I decided today to take a hike and see Ile Bodham. The island is about 1 1/2 miles long and a little over a quarter mile wide. We first went to find the old Cathedral which was built in 1936. Very broken down, no roof and the jungle has taken over much of it like the rest of the island.

We then got a notion to go to the windward side of the island and followed the track. To say the least, it was pure jungle. Coconut trees packed in so dense, you couldn\’t see light out of the forest. Rotting coconuts everywhere with the obligatory very large coconut crabs…everywhere. Lots of spiders too. Nikki got bit! When we finally got to the sea shore on the other side, it was again (and I never get over this), a shock to see plastic refuse everywhere. Dozens of old flip flop sandals, plastic bottles, plastic fishing floats. The state of our Earth at this time in history I suppose.

So, we then started back. Looking at where we had come from was immediately a challenge. In other words, we couldn\’t see where we\’d come from. We crisscrossed whatever tracks we could find until they just stopped. Then crisscrossed through the bush…literally. We finally were in between two bogs of stagnant water and the mosquitos where everywhere. We didn\’t get bit too badly as we\’d 40% \”Deeted\” up before we left. Eventually we came to the ocean again and tried to either walk in the surf line or when we couldn\’t, parallel the track as best we could. For the most part….we couldn\’t and were back to clambering thorough the bush. Eventually, we made it to the inner lagoon and for the most part, walked back along the shore in knee to chest high water. We had a few almost encounters with several sting rays, but I saw them in time and shooed them away with a stick. Pretty big guys too, about 2 1/2 feet across. Eventually we made it back to the wharf, walking about 4 kilometers through mostly bush! We felt pretty tired and came back to the boat for a lovely shower in the cool water. It was interesting, but I wouldn\’t do it again! (Neither would Nikki!).

Last night, we got a squall that started out with a downpour and 30 knots of wind. Eventually we saw some gusts to 42 knots! This was a band of convection associated with what is now severe tropical storm Anais; the first of the West Indian Ocean season. The good news is, that after a few hours of sustained winds and rain in the mid 20++ knot range, things calmed down. Today, it\’s been almost windlass and very warm. It\’s actually been the nicest day since we\’ve been here, but it is HOT (90 deg F) or 32.2 deg C.

If all looks good re: \”Anais\” and the weather gives us some wind, we\’ll leave tomorrow with a SSW heading to get down into the nice easy trade winds predicted about 250 miles south of us. From there, we\’ll head more west, staying at least 600 miles behind \”Anais\” as it breaks up in a few days and curves to the south toward Mauritius. We should have a nice run from there with the trades around 18-22 knots taking us right into northern Madagascar. This is \”the plan\”, but the weather gods have been known to be a challenge.

We\’ll write once we\’re off from Saloman. Stay tuned,

KIT, Scott and Nikki

Salomon Atoll, Chagos…..

08 October 2012

Dear F&F,

We\’ll we\’re now on our fourth day here at Salomon. Two days ago, we went for a walk an what a wild \”put together\” scene exists on the beach. There is an old stone jetty (very small) that was here when people lived here 50 years ago. The British moved them all to Mauritius back then.

Some stone building structures, the ubiquitous plastic junk, dozens of \”flip flops\” collected by the cruisers over the years in an art work display. A volleyball net, rats, mosquitos, coconuts and their crabs. Doesn\’t paradise sound incredible?…:-)

Actually, this atoll is much like the world of thousands of years ago. Many more fish and healthy coral than lots of places.

The \”BIOT\” agent (British Indian Ocean Territory) came by two days ago to check up on us. His main job is to watch for illegal fishing. He takes this pristine environment very seriously. All the small islets here (except one!) have rats. This is the norm, by the way. The old sailing ships and future cargo ships introduced them. No predators, lots of food (coconuts and bird eggs) and they\’re everywhere. In Cocos, they are getting rid of them, here, not yet. The one island without them has much bigger bird populations as the eggs are unmolested.

The weather has been rainy/squally, but not too bad. Overcast is the norm right now.

Yesterday, I dove the boat, checked the mooring and did a bit of maintenance on it. I changed the zinc anodes underwater on the props, sail drives and the refrigeration/freezer system. Then re-greased our high tech propellers, cleaned them, did some bottom cleaning, etc. The \”bump\” on the reef in Benoa, Bali left some scrapes, but nothing that epoxy, time and paint won\’t fix. We had a no wind time yesterday and quickly pulled the main up and I repaired it. The big water maker is being a bit of a problem. The spare is working fine! We got our \”winch buddy\” back in action (thank heavens, it is a girl\’s best friend!…:-)). The Winch Buddy is a right angle drill that has a special attachment which \”electrifies\” all our manual winches. This makes pulling up the dagger boards, trimming the sails and pulling up the dinghy a piece of cake. Without the \”buddy\”, I get quite a workout.

Still some more maintenance to do, but it\’s coming along. We hope to get some snorkeling in as soon as the weather gets a bit sunny which may? be today?

Dave and Kathy were intrigued by the celestial navigation stuff, so \”Professor Scott\” held class yesterday for a few hours. Perhaps more today? Dave wants me to help him with some sat phone connection to email stuff as well.

For now, all is well and I\’m looking at the 13th as the next jump off date where the weather seems to be shaping up for the next leg to Madagascar. This of course, will literally change by the day as we watch the weather develop.

KIT, Scott and Domestic Diva Nikki

Day 9, squalls, wind shifs and ships…..

04 October 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

Well yesterday turned out to be a nice day, lots of \”breeze\” (18-25 knots) and we were able to make some northing. The swells became more tolerable and today feels like we\’re almost at the dock relatively speaking!..:-)

We saw two small junkie fishing boats yesterday. They were apparently just outside the \”Chagos Exclusive Economic Zone\” which means the fishing is good there. Last night, we passed our 12th ship, \”Friendship Freedom\”. A tanker full of oil out of the Persian Gulf. In his AIS \”destination\” column that we get as a read out on our electronic chart system, it said: \”ARMED GUARDS ONBD\”. A sign of the times…. This also of course assumes that \”bad guys\” can read English!

The ships are swinging away from the NW Indian Ocean. So will we btw! We were actually on a collision course with last nights tanker and I had to ask him to alter course on the radio which he happily did.

Last night it was rain, rain and of course, more rain. The night started off with an hour of 27-33 knot winds, then gusts to 35. It has backed off ever since. We\’ve actually seen short periods where there was no wind. Currently, 17-20 knots from the NNE and much calmer seas. We\’re now in no hurry to cover the last 125 miles as we will not enter the reef system till after good light tomorrow morning. I\’m sure we\’ll have to slow down late tonight.

We covered 145 miles the last 24 hours, which was fine as we were not going to make in today in any event. We\’ve been in email contact with \”Sunflower\” who is at Salomon Atoll and gotten some good local knowledge from them. We got an email today from s/v \”Saviah\”, the young Yanks who went direct from Cocos to Mauritius and they report several good whacking fronts and heavy trade winds 25 ++. This is why I didn\’t want to take their route AND, it can get much rougher in their last 1500 miles to South Africa with some huge seas. No thanks!

Watching the squall lines, sailing along. Weather should be gusty, a bit rainy/squally but not too much wind or sea the rest of the way. We\’ll be getting to Chagos just ahead of a low that will pass over us the next day or two. Glad we get to miss that one!

My report may or may not be a little late tomorrow depending on arrival time. I will put out the position report then as well.

KIT, Scott with Sleeping Nikki

Day 8, Uh!…..

03 October 2012 (Eastern Hemisphere)

Dear F&F,

Well, the last 24 hours has not been lots of fun. Squalls, rain and most importantly, wind from a less favorable direction. We passed a few more ships on AIS yesterday and had a bit of a start this morning (1/2 hour ago) as we came upon a dilapidated looking 150 foot fishing vessel only a mile away. It was all lit up and motoring the opposite direction toward Indonesia. It still gives me a bit of a wake up call and reminds me of how I do not want to see such vessels. Given where we are, it\’s a needle in haystack meeting, so I\’ll hope it\’s the last one.

Our issue at the moment is that we\’re in the low pressure squall zone and the winds are trying to keep us south. We have to get north and around the lee shore of the Great Chagos Bank which is sitll about 200 miles west of us. It\’s 80 miles (at least), north to south and Salomon is 40 miles to it\’s north. So, we\’ve got to keep speed and work north of it in a NNEasterly wind. Not so much fun. We\’ve a 3.5 meter swell (10-11 feet) from both behind us (east) and in front of us (north) as we work to the northwest. No big breaking seas which is the bonus or you could say, I\’m looking at the glass half full…:-) I just looked and we\’ve done 157 miles. Two more days like this and we\’re home free.

I must fix the stove. The propane safety switch has apparently died off. I have a spare. Just no fun working on it in the lumpy seas.

KIT, more tomorrow, Scott and Nikki